Knukonceptz: KLM vs kolossus wire?

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

i would do 2 power runs and one ground run of klm then utilize the immense amount of conductor known as your chassis for the second ground run.

What amp(s) what front battery and what alternator? 3 runs might even be overkill.

Kicker>kolossus //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[sandbags 10+ year member]

kicker is not better than kol... the jacket can be cut too easily

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

kicker is not better than kol... the jacket can be cut too easily

more surface area of wire.. i protect my wire so jacket isn't an issue. I like flexxy.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

if i stay stock, it would be 105amp alternator on a stock battery up front, with 4 runs of 1/0 between batteries (2 power and 2 ground)

what i would like to do is leave alternator stock, put a yellowtop up front, my kinetik 2400 in the back with 4 runs of 1/0.

This is pushing a Bxi2607 (rated at 2600x1 @ 1ohm), ran at about 2000RMS, and a kicker 350.2 for component speakers

doesnt grounding to chassis raise the chance of gettin a ground loop? if not, i'de much rather just run two power wires back then ground to chassis heh.

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

if i stay stock, it would be 105amp alternator on a stock battery up front, with 4 runs of 1/0 between batteries (2 power and 2 ground)
what i would like to do is leave alternator stock, put a yellowtop up front, my kinetik 2400 in the back with 4 runs of 1/0.

This is pushing a Bxi2607 (rated at 2600x1 @ 1ohm), ran at about 2000RMS, and a kicker 350.2 for component speakers

doesnt grounding to chassis raise the chance of gettin a ground loop? if not, i'de much rather just run two power wires back then ground to chassis heh.

well it depends on who you talk to. It wouldn't effect ground loops as long as you used solid grounds. A weak chassis ground would be more of a voltage drop potential really. Plus a solid big three...if you haven't addressed it yet.

If your running a stock alternator and battery up front with 2400 out back i would only do 1 run of kol or hyperflex and call it a day honestly. That should be plenty. Plus a solid big three...if you haven't addressed it yet.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

well it depends on who you talk to. It wouldn't effect ground loops as long as you used solid grounds. A weak chassis ground would be more of a voltage drop potential really.
If your running a stock alternator and battery up front with 2400 out back i would only do 1 run of kol or hyperflex and call it a day honestly. That should be plenty.

you think so? i'de rather be safe then sorry, and i dont want to have huge voltage drops or anything. If it comes down to it, i can get a HO alternator, but if i can avoid that i would like to.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

oh, and the big 3 will definately be done

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

well with the 2400 out back pretty much all the battery power will be drawn from that and 1 run of 1/0 will have no problem supplying the little current from the stock battery will be providing and the 105 amps that stock alternator will provide.

I dont know if the hc2400 is compatible with your stock battery tho. Might want to get an hc800 or something for under the hood, as to not mix battery styles and risk leaching.

I have an hc2400 under the hood and a 140 amp alt with 1 run of hyperflex 1/0 to the back. Powers an hk4000 @ 2 ohms with only about a .5 volt drop for reference. All vehicles are different but that gives you an idea.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

well with the 2400 out back pretty much all the battery power will be drawn from that and 1 run of 1/0 will have no problem supplying the little current from the stock battery will be providing and the 105 amps that stock alternator will provide.
I dont know if the hc2400 is compatible with your stock battery tho. Might want to get an hc800 or something for under the hood, as to not mix battery styles and risk leaching.

I have an hc2400 under the hood and a 140 amp alt with 1 run of hyperflex 1/0 to the back. Powers an hk4000 @ 2 ohms with only about a .5 volt drop for reference. All vehicles are different but that gives you an idea.

yeah the plan was to replace the battery up front either way.

alrighty then, 1 power run of kolossus from a smaller kinetik to the 2400 out back, ground the 2400 to chassis/frame, ground amps to kinetik2400, do the big 3, and call it a day eh? I hope thats gonna be enough, i guess i can always go back and add another run tho heh.

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

yeah the plan was to replace the battery up front either way.
alrighty then, 1 power run of kolossus from a smaller kinetik to the 2400 out back, ground the 2400 to chassis/frame, ground amps to kinetik2400, do the big 3, and call it a day eh? I hope thats gonna be enough, i guess i can always go back and add another run tho heh.

exactly. If its not enough do another run...but honestly i don't see why it wouldn't be. Just make sure your grounds are good both under the hood and out back.

 

[adas Pro Seller]

For around 3000w, 1 run power, ground chassis is plenty IMO. You can always add that extra one if voltage drops are a problem, but honestly you'll need a HO alt before another run of 1/0 to the front. If we were talking 4000w+, sure 2 runs power, 1 ground, and 1 chassis is perfect. Or you can always do that from the beginning but you'll barely, if even notice it, especially with most the power coming from the back battery already. And dont forget replacing the stock battery with something sealed....I have seen a few bad cases with mixed battery types:crap: I love my SP1000, I'd say that would be a great battery if not a HC800.

Oh, and I definatly say Kol or Kicker, especially with 1 run. I really really love hyperflex though:yumyum:

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

ordered everything. 30ft blue kolossus wire, 10ft silver kolosus wire, 16 1/0 terminals, and a kinetik800 to match the 2400

I will be doing the big3 in 1/0, running 1 run of the kolosus from the kinetik800 up front to the kinetik2400 in the rear, the kinetik2400 will be grounded to chassis. The amps will then be grounded to the kinetik2400. If i run out of kolossus before i can wire my sub amp, i'll have some KLM i can use for that, as well as an 8 guage wire kit from knu for the kicker 2ch amp. Sound good to you all?

the audio equip will be 2 15" type-r's pushed by a Hifonics BXi2607d (2600RMS@1ohm, ran gently at 2000-ish RMS instead) and a polk momo 6.5" comp set ran on a kicker kx350.2 (125x2RMS), and the rear speakers will just be ran off internal amp on the HU. I think i'll be just fine...hopefully lol

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Is there a reason for running wire for the ground instead of using the chassis?

because at 3000w it's possible (likely IMO) the wire req'd (>1/0) will be more conductive than the chassis.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

because at 3000w it's possible (likely IMO) the wire req'd (>1/0) will be more conductive than the chassis.

i can also ground to frame if need be. isnt that a more conductive ground?

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I've seen 3 tests and 3 different results.

Esoteric Audio published the average chassis is equiv. to about 1/0 wire.

JL Audio says closer to 4 ga.

An engineer at carsound did some measuring and came up with around 2/0.

I just go by the generalization if your current demand requires greater than 1/0 wire there may be something to gain by going directly to the battery.