knee deep in $#!+...

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

ok...got a couple of questions to ask i will be entering a spl comp in july and i need help on building a good system...already got the amp and subs down...now i need some mids and highs so i can use the car as a daily driver as well....got any suggestions

1.Whats a good main battery

2.Can i use a rf 3sixty.1 for an upgraded system?

3...Getting mids and tweeters...what crossover should i get or how do i wire them?

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[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

you should read around

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

ive been reading...still not all answered...and this is faster

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

nvm

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Go passive on the xover. Active is for hoes.

 

[Ineed$ 10+ year member]

is that a happy sheep?

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

who?

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

whats the difference between active and passive?

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

redtops come standard in Jeep Liberty diesels and they have vents and I think the magnums/chargers (I could be wrong there), anyways they have vent tubes, but never seent the yellowtops with vent tubes

 

[Alpineforever 10+ year member]

Active means you use an external processor to set the crossover points yourself. Each tweeter and each midbass will get their own channel and you have more control about how much power gets to what, and if you don't like the sound you can continually tune your x-over points until you find what you like.

Passive means you use the crossover that comes with your component set in line after amplification and you can't change the x-over point, and there is a tweeter and mid on each channel.

IMO Active is much more rewarding, and where you set your crossovers is more dependent on your drivers, and no one can really answer that until you pick out your drivers, but as a general rule of thumb start out safe with your tweeters crossed over 3000 or 3500 HZ and then tune lower, and some mids can take down to 60 HZ no problem, others are better crossed over higher at like 80 or 100 HZ, so thats really driver dependent, and then just LP the mids around 2500 or so...

Passive is for tricks an b1tch3s! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Racerx250 10+ year member]

ehh. Active FTMFW!!!!!!!!

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

ok kool...thankx...now for the other questions

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Like Kinetiks for the battery.

2nd question, well I am not 100% sure, but normally people that have factory systems get those to help get better sound. I imagine you can use it for aftermarker though.

I like the PG Rsd's right now for mids, tweets.

But I also read good things about the new Pioneer Premier line for their new componet set. Also you want to use the passive crossovers that come with the set, unless you go active.

 

[quest51210 10+ year member]

i have to agree here, my focal k2p's did not sound as good as my RSD's. sucks but true. all else equal...placement, power, deadening, etc

Like Kinetiks for the battery.
2nd question, well I am not 100% sure, but normally people that have factory systems get those to help get better sound. I imagine you can use it for aftermarker though.

I like the PG Rsd's right now for mids, tweets.

But I also read good things about the new Pioneer Premier line for their new componet set. Also you want to use the passive crossovers that come with the set, unless you go active.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Go passive on the xover. Active is for hoes.

Rofls.

I'll be going active as soon as my 880 and RCA's come in the mail. Active FTMFW.

No need for the 360 if you have an aftermarket HU and amps.