Kicks or small Midranges?

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

OK, so here is my dilemma:

I will soon be installing some Seas G18RNX mids and Rainbow CAL25ALK tweets. My problem is that, from some stuff I've been reading recently, I may have a gap in my usable crossover points if I install them in my doors because of the speakers playing off-axis. If this is true, I see two ways to overcome this.

1) Build some kicks or buy something like Q-forms.

-Pros: Would put the drivers back on-axis, eliminating frewuency gap.

-Cons: Not sure about the quality of Q-forms, can't afford to have kick built by

a shop, and I don't really want to build them myself (inexperience, lack of free

time, etc.). I already bought some Raamat to deaden my doors, assuming

that i would install the speakers there. If I'm not using it in the doors, I don't

know what to do with it.

2) Buy a small midrange (2-4") to take over the 2kHz-4kHz range.

- Pros: This would take care of the frequency gap as well. Would allow me to

install in the doors, meaning I can use the Raamat for it's intended purpose.

I won't incur the extra cost of buying kicks (I wouldn't spend any more on the

drivers than the q-forms). I won't have to spend the time to build kicks. I

have an extra amp laying around that I could use, so that isn't an issue.

-Cons: Extra cost of RCAs. I'd be pulling more current and would have to run

more wire. I'd have to cut extra holes in my doors and find a way to mount

my tweeters. Would have to find space in the amp rack for the extra

amplifier.

Any light you guys could shed on my situation would be most helpful.

Thanks in advance,

Aaron

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[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Anyone? posted this same thread on DIYMA if you prefer to answer there and feed off of their comments

 

[Gary S 10+ year member]

The problem with Q-forms is they are not sealed... so they are not good for a simple two-way system unless you can seal them with some air space behind them. Unsealed, you would have no midbass.

The hot set up would be a three-way system, with the midbass drivers in the doors, and the mid and tweet in the Q-forms for best soundstage and imaging.

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

I think you're worrying too much. Try the two way first, and you'll probably like what you hear.

I'm not familiar with the Cal25 tweeter. How low can you cross it?

Many people have had success with the LPG tweeter mated with the CA18RNX, and it's a tweeter that has to be crossed over above 3k. The G18s are more detailed in the midrange, so you'll get good performance up to 3k from them.

I don't want to say ignore everything I've said lately, but take it with a grain of salt. Not everything is set in stone. The G18s will be fine up to 3k.

 

[Hebrew Hammer 10+ year member]

The problem with Q-forms is they are not sealed... so they are not good for a simple two-way system unless you can seal them with some air space behind them. Unsealed, you would have no midbass.
The hot set up would be a three-way system, with the midbass drivers in the doors, and the mid and tweet in the Q-forms for best soundstage and imaging.

just because it's not sealed doesn't make it not correct...90% of the time with using a larger driver like a 5 or 6 that you are starving that driver of much needed airspace....

now if your arguement is thin and weak baffles and resonance and then walls thin sure...but the airspace comment is bogus....

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

just because it's not sealed doesn't make it not correct...90% of the time with using a larger driver like a 5 or 6 that you are starving that driver of much needed airspace....
now if your arguement is thin and weak baffles and resonance and then walls thin sure...but the airspace comment is bogus....

So if I got the Q-forms and beefed them up with a couple layers of glass, MDF baffles, etc, would they be decent? I have no problem beefing them up, just not all that excited about building kicks from scratch.

 

[Hebrew Hammer 10+ year member]

So if I got the Q-forms and beefed them up with a couple layers of glass, MDF baffles, etc, would they be decent? I have no problem beefing them up, just not all that excited about building kicks from scratch.

yes that will help freq response a ton...also if u r inclined to cut some metal in the kick area to give the drivers more breathing room...and stuff some good ole speaker fill in the mix as well....i'd prolly just do a mdf baffle...two layers of some form of damping material and then a thick layer of non hardening modling clay...

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

yes that will help freq response a ton...also if u r inclined to cut some metal in the kick area to give the drivers more breathing room...and stuff some good ole speaker fill in the mix as well....i'd prolly just do a mdf baffle...two layers of some form of damping material and then a thick layer of non hardening modling clay...

OK, I'm not sure what you mean by cutting metal in the kick area. It seems to me that you are suggesting I cut hole in my floor.

 

[Hebrew Hammer 10+ year member]

OK, I'm not sure what you mean by cutting metal in the kick area. It seems to me that you are suggesting I cut hole in my floor.

no...when you remove the plastic kick panel there is metal behind it....the idea is to get rid of some metal and let the driver get some much needed airspace....

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

no...when you remove the plastic kick panel there is metal behind it....the idea is to get rid of some metal and let the driver get some much needed airspace....

OK, lol, I thought that sounded pretty crazy. I'm assuming you're talking about welded-on stuff, like brackets and such, not sheetmetal.