Kicker rms rating

you overpowered it, no if, and, or buts about it
i think he was talking to me...Because I blew a 380rms Lanzar off of roughly 250-300rms. The voice coil started smoking and the speaker just stopped working. Now, I will admit that my gain was high as was the bass boost

 
It's not Lanzar's fault you don't know how to install/use your equipment. Learn to set your gains properly and you wouldn't have these problems.
I know how too, I just choose not to..hence the blown sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Thats the nice thing about 30$ sub, it dont matter if you blow it. I would be more concerned about the amp then the sub. That was a temp setup after I blew my Kove Armageddon (that was not a gain issue) that was sending a sub double its rms for weeks, it took it like a champ tho. That was loud as fucc for one 12...You never hear about Kove, But the Armageddons were pretty beast

 
They can take ALOT of clean power
They can take a lot yes but it also depends on the box that's in. I had a 12" Kicker L5 dual 4 ohm in a slot ported box from Kicker and 600 watts blew one of the tinsel leads off, I was able to solder it back on but it came off again due to excursion. I replaced it with a 1st-gen Kicker L7 dual 4 ohm in the same box with 500 watts and this setup worked great, but I then decided that it can handle more and put about 1100 watts RMS into it. Within two days I ripped and frayed all four tinsel leads where it meets the cone AND the terminal, the poor thing now has an impedance of anywhere from 7 to 200 ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

In both situations the cone, coil and the suspension itself were fine but the tinsel leads couldn't handle the excursion and ripped. I'd say if you're gonna put tons of power into a Kicker then go with the Solo-X.

 
I can play a clipped signal through any speaker and it'll be just fine as long as it can handle the power that's being applied to it.
Theory is all fine and dandy... But.. if that's true.. then riddle me this...

6 different Cerwin Vega XL-15D's (i.e. 3 sets of two) were sent back to CV due to fried voice coils. Amount of power on them? 240watts each (bridged Carver M4120). Speaker rating was 250-500 watts (cant remember exact number, but I know I was under it).

4th set never blew - even when I upgraded to a PPI A600 and moved the carver to the front/rear speakers. Why? The tard that was frying them (that would be me when I was 16) was clipping the ever loving crap out of the amp. Once that tard (again, me when I was 16) learned WTH clipping was, and STOPPED doing it, speakers never blew again.

So... from personal experience, I know for a fact that clipping an amp on a speaker, especially at high power levels, and even BELOW the power level of the speakers, can and will fry a voice coil.

Experiment number 2 - the "flip side" of this argument. A friend wanted to fry his RF Series 1 because the warranty was almost up, and he wanted a new one (or a new cone and VC at least) before hand. Series 1's were rated around 150 WRMS (IIRC). He brought it to my house, we hooked it up to a bridged Carver TFM-25 (that would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 750 watts) and played some hard bass tracks through it. And get this... the sub was sitting free air on the living room floor! It never blew. We actually gave up. Of course that Carver amp had one hell of a clean signal, and didn't clip a single time.

So, again, theories are all well and good, and I've heard (read) them all before. However, experience speaks at a much louder volume.

I'm just sayin....

 
clipping doubles the power there bub, you overpowered them

that 240watts was actually 480watts, pretty darn near the 500watts you posted. Play that through your speaker for an extended time and it will for sure die.

User error on your part.

 
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