kicker 2500.1 ?

[shortyg83 10+ year member]

If you don plan on even putting in a second battery you will get a ton of dimming without any upgrades.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

Several of you who posted must not have had direct experience with the amp. You guys are so wrong. If you even did a search, several people do run it at 1 ohm.
I have a ZX 2500.1 and ran it full gain at 1 ohm for testing on an RL-p today. It's taking it like cake and it is not a current hog. I ran it half gain at 2 ohms for 2 months and all I have is 1/0 and big 3 with an kinetik hc 1400 under the hood and a measly 90A stock alt and I got slight dimming. My Treo SSX 1500.1 put out less power and sucked more current. I don't recommend .5 ohms, even for burps, it won't like it. Not to dump or anything, I'm actually selling my ZX 2500.1 that has been used for only 2 months and I'm looking to upgrade, so PM me if youre interested.

x2....

ran mine off 2 red tops, 2 runs of 1/0 (chasis ground/big3), and my stock 90amp alty @ 1 ohm all day long and it only got hot after long sessions of abuse. they're VERY efficent and cant beat at and right under 12v all day long. one of the best amps ive ever used. when i build my stereo back up i want a zx2500.1 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

you guys saying its a current hog dont know wtf you're talking about. i mean yes you'll need some electrical upgrades, but then again you cant really run 2.5kW off a stock electrical now can you? you can get away with a semi stock electrical with this amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

yo u need good batteries more than anythign else (sufficent wireing too). best bet for the money are gonna be optima yellow tops or kinetik batteries. you can get away with putting a cheap AGM or deep cycle battery up front and a nice AMG or deep cycle battery in the back. they need to both be the same kind if you'll be haveing them connect for along period of time.

listen to me, if you want anything more than 1200-1500w......you're gonan need to throw a couple to several hundred into the electrical. a stock electrical will NOT provide enough power to run anymore than 1.2kW -1.5kW without hurting the car and/or the stereo equipment. and yes, IT IS WORTH THE INVESTMENT. save you're money man

 

[BloWNMind 10+ year member]

I have the same question. There are a couple of people saying it will work with good electrical, but does anyone bump it at 1 ohm all day?

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

i was bumping all day everyday when i had it. that amp takes the abuse very very nicely. as long as you have a semi stock electrical itll perform like you have a massive electrical.

 

[sxkicker89 10+ year member]

ok.thanks for the info.so im goin to get 2 batteries.one for the front and then one for the back.where can i get them from.could i trade my treo ssx 1500.1 for a 2500.1?

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

ok.thanks for the info.so im goin to get 2 batteries.one for the front and then one for the back.where can i get them from.could i trade my treo ssx 1500.1 for a 2500.1?

Not going to get a ho alt? An extra battery WILL NOT do the trick if you want consistent power.

 

[sxkicker89 10+ year member]

so then wat should i get

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

Not going to get a ho alt? An extra battery WILL NOT do the trick if you want consistent power.

actually. depending on other factors in the electrical, it will......

like i said, i ran a 2500.1 off a 90amp alty and 2 red tops. i had dual runs of 1/0 for power and that made a very noticable differance. also just never bump your system with the rpm's under 2k. just turn it down at intersections and bump it when you're driving or your rpm's are up. it is possible.

to help stabilize the electrical i'd recommend running multiple (like 3 positive and 3 negative) runs between the front battery and the alty, that was the front battery can get a very very good charge as opposed to a single run of 1/0. more wire the better. It's ok if you have 6 runs from the alty to front back and 2 runs of 1/0 to the back battery. that front battery will get a better charge and if you bump responsibly you wont go under 12v. And those 2500.1's will run allllll day long off 12v @ 1 ohm. i had a refurb and it did wonders at 1 ohm and a not so beefy electrical system.

NOW, if you DO get an HO alty (which i highly recommend), with 2 good bats and sufficent wires you can probly run a constant 14.4v while full tilt/full power. for a few weeks i was running a mojo4kw (current hog) off 1 d34 yellow top and a 220amp ho alty. i had 3 pos and 3 neg between the alty and bat, then 1 pos 1 neg from front to the amp in the back and still maintained 12v-13v with my rpm's up. it was only for a few weeks, otherwise itd put alot of strain on the alty.

seriously, can i spell it any clearer? get the ****ing kicker

 

[sxkicker89 10+ year member]

lol thats wat im tryin to do.i have to get rid of my us amp 2000d and treo ssx1500.1 then i should be able to get a 2500.1 for subs wat should i go with for that amp.my trunk isnt to big but i can maybe fit 2 15 in a sealed box.or i could go with 2 12 in a ported box.hopefully the person that is installin my equipment will know wat he is doin

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

used yellow tops and kinetiks are a good route. if you have the extra money look into northstar NSB 90ft's or powermaster motorsports batteries, those are really nice. but honestly 2 yellow tops will be fine. I say get 2 yellow tops, dual runs of 1/0 (it will make all the differance) and stick with your stock alty (btw how powerful is it?). and just bump responsibly so you dont strain your electrical

 

[sxkicker89 10+ year member]

i couldnt tell how powerful it is.i have a v6 mustang