Kenwood KAC-7205 1000 Watts amplifier ( bridgeable )

just got yesterday my Kenwood KAC-7205 1000 Watts amplifier install in my car but they did not bridge the amp caues they said that it would blow my kicker speakers which i dont think they know what they were talking about does anyone here know if i bridge the amp would it realy blow my kicker speakers i had them for like over 3 years they are the comp something like theses here they are 4 ohms each

cheap!! kicker comp subs and amp - Houston-Imports.com

 
just got yesterday my Kenwood KAC-7205 1000 Watts amplifier install in my car but they did not bridge the amp caues they said that it would blow my kicker speakers which i dont think they know what they were talking about does anyone here know if i bridge the amp would it realy blow my kicker speakers i had them for like over 3 years they are the comp something like theses here they are 4 ohms each
cheap!! kicker comp subs and amp - Houston-Imports.com

lol, i'm not 100% sure if it would blow your subs, but if you wire those subs together you are going to get either an 8 OHM load or a 2 OHM load. Your amp is not rated to do 2 OHM bridged, and at 8 OHMs you wouldn't be seeing siht for power.

 
hi am still confuses i never bridge the amp when it got install it should be pushing 150/170 watts each for whats i was told befor here i would realy like to know if i bridge the amp how much will it be pushing the 2 12s kicker speakers then each and would it blow my 2 12s kicker speakers bridge theses are the amp features

Amplifier Features: •2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier

•RMS Power Rating:

◦4 ohms: 170 watts x 2 chan.

◦2 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.

◦Bridged, 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.

•Max power output: 500 watts x 2 chan.

•MOSFET power supply

•LED power indicator

•Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)

•Speaker impedance: 2-8 ohms (4-8 ohms bridged)

•Bridgeable operation

•Speaker-level inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on

•Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry

•Aluminum die cast heat sink

•Built-in cooling fan

•Gold-plated RCA level inputs

•Gold-plated screw terminals

•Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)

•CEA-2006 compliant amplifier

•Frequency response: 5-50,000 Hz

 
hi am still confuses i never bridge the amp when it got install it should be pushing 150/170 watts each for whats i was told befor here i would realy like to know if i bridge the amp how much will it be pushing the 2 12s kicker speakers then each and would it blow my 2 12s kicker speakers bridge theses are the amp features
Amplifier Features: •2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier

•RMS Power Rating:

◦4 ohms: 170 watts x 2 chan.

◦2 ohms: 250 watts x 2 chan.

◦Bridged, 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.

•Max power output: 500 watts x 2 chan.

•MOSFET power supply

•LED power indicator

•Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)

•Speaker impedance: 2-8 ohms (4-8 ohms bridged)

•Bridgeable operation

•Speaker-level inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on

•Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry

•Aluminum die cast heat sink

•Built-in cooling fan

•Gold-plated RCA level inputs

•Gold-plated screw terminals

•Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)

•CEA-2006 compliant amplifier

•Frequency response: 5-50,000 Hz
you would not gain anything by running the subs bridged. You can only wire them to a 8 ohm load, in which they might get 125 watts each. Your best bet would be to advertise it on C/L, take a loss (depending on what you paid) And invest in a ok amp like the MB Quart ONYX, or a Lanzar OPTI...even a HiFonics Brutus BRZ or Zeus 1200 watt would give them 300-350 watts ea. wired to 2 ohms for less than $200.00

just for example, compare the RMS specs on these amps vs the Kenwood:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0HF-000A-00001

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA15Y0AT7190

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882684040

and you might have to run conservative with your gains not to over power them too much. The amp will last longer and in the future you will know what power you have on tap for future sub upgrades.

 
quackhead i was told that they would push 150/170 each just like i have them now so are you saying if i wire them to a 8 ohm load i might get 125 watts each more on each beside the 170/150

edit : naughtyca now am confuses more so if i bridge them i will get 500 watts each or 250 watts each they are pushing ok now but i would realy like to get a lil more out of theses amp to push a lil harder

 
Your amp will power these subs u have 2 options bridge them to get 500 or use 2 channels, these kenwoods have very clean power
LOL..

How do you consider a Class A/B amp with 1% THD on a 4 ohm load clean power??

CEA-2006 Standard

170 W x 2 -RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N80

80 dBA - Signal to Noise Ratio (Reference: 1 Watt into 4 ohms)

 
quackhead i was told that they would push 150/170 each just like i have them now so are you saying if i wire them to a 8 ohm load i might get 125 watts each more on each beside the 170/150
edit : naughtyca now am confuses more so if i bridge them i will get 500 watts each or 250 watts each they are pushing ok now but i would realy like to get a lil more out of theses amp to push a lil harder
If you bridge the amp, you can only use a MINIMUM 4 ohm load. You have 2 speakers, they are 4 ohms each. If you wire them parallel to the amp bridged mono, you will have a 2 ohm load. You can not do this without destabilizing the amplifier. This means each channel will have a 1 ohm load.

IF you wire them to the bridged amp in series, you will have a 8 ohm load. This is the only wiring option you have in bridged mono operation. The bridged amp channels will each have a 4 ohm load. The amp is rated for 250 watts into a singe 8 ohm load, when bridged mono. Now divide the available 250 watts/2 subs and each sub will see 125 watts.

 
MY GOD guys really there kicker comps

what you have are 2 single 4 ohm subs. wire them in parallel and you get your 2 ohm load.

the subs you have are only rated at 150 rms each. therefore you would need 300 watts RMS at 2 ohm.

your amp has a rating of 500 watts at 2 ohm bridged which i bet is inflated but since you only need 300 it will work perfectly.

get eveything wired up look at how to set gains with a DMM set it at 300 hook the subs up bridged and you will be good.

i have personal experience with the comps and dont run more than rated, i gave a pair 400 (200 each) and they blew about 8 months later.

 
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