Keep frying my tinsel leads on subwoofer??

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

I recently purchased a lightly used 12" RE SE-x from a friend and it has been working fine for about a month until it stopped, so I took it out to find one of the negative tinsel leads had been fried off the little terminal. I soldered it back together and it worked fine until today (about 3-4 days) I fried off another one, this time a positive lead on the opposite side.

Any idea why this is happening? They aren't being overpowered.. So I don't know what would be causing this.

thanks

Click to read more...

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

what amp are you running it on what is the VC config and how do you have it wired??

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Its wired to 1-ohm, the amp is 1 ohm stable 600/RMS and the subwoofer is DVC 2 ohm

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

again what amp. and what do you have the gain and bass boost set at.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

reason being is the re subs use short lead wire and ur pulling on it. you normally have to put a lil extra power over rated to do this or play below tuning.

in china they are cheap with the leadwire save 1/4" per lead thats 1" per sub times 1000. it adds up and they think of this in the tight production factorys.....

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

well. good to know

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

reason being is the re subs use short lead wire and ur pulling on it. you normally have to put a lil extra power over rated to do this or play below tuning.in china they are cheap with the leadwire save 1/4" per lead thats 1" per sub times 1000. it adds up and they think of this in the tight production factorys.....

Hmm interesting. How do you know they do that? the leads didnt seam THAT short. Also they were not just clean broken off, they were burnt up a little bit at the tip. Would pulling it off cause it to burn like that?

also one thing that seems odd is this never happened while the subs were actually in use. both times it happened I got out of my car (working) and when I got back in they were not working.

I was thinking its because of the cold temp's but I dont know.

 

[Shinju 10+ year member]

Eather that or you are clipping the hell out of it and heating up those tensel leads like mad.

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

if they were starting to rip and were constantly touching/untouching the lead with the frayed pieces i'm sure some sort of burned look would appear

 

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

clipping came to your subs, disrespected it's leads

 

[Spooney 10+ year member]

clipping came to your subs, disrespected it's leads

awesomeness!

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

So you're saying i underpowered it? Definitely not the case. Its slightly overpowered actually but hardly.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

clipped =/= underpowering.

clipping means the sine wave that's being sent to your subs has a flat bottom and top. what this means is that when your subs are playing and hit that flattened spot, they hold on to the same spot for longer than a normal sine wave. basically, this extra time the subs are playing at the peak's causes extra heat buildup in the subs. this extra heat most commonly burns up voice coils, but in your case it's burning up tinsel leads

your amp is what's sending the clipped signal. check your gains, bass boost on the amp should be set to 0. also, what amp do you have? a low quality amp could be sending a clipped signal

 

[Haunz 10+ year member]

leads fry off because there is an area of high resistance... (forget all the clipping nonsense, ect)

In this case your easiest fix is to get all the old solder and lead out of the terminal with your iron and a solder sucker.. take a half inch or so of copper wire and weave some over the end of the lead, put the rest into the terminal and solder it all up... be sure to shrink wrap it...

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

What I like to do is cut the lead to 1-1&1/2" and install new full-length lead parallel to the end and double back and follow with heat shrink. Then, use good black rtv to attach that union to the cone and connect to the terminal. Never failed, just keep the mass down.... In my experience, reattachment has only ever been a temporary solution, and replacing and upgrading all the way to the coil wires is the best option if you are accustomed to, Nd willing to dig in that far. If the full length hasn't darkened fom heat, then it is merely from excessive flexing at the joint.....