Just got my PA A3000db in Pics*

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

ive heard from many people get a fused distro block right by the amp for it, and run 4ga to the amp, i dont know much about fuses and stuff like that

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

A3000db data (Lab tested)
Actual power: (12.5 V, THD = 1%, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm) Wt 469/745

THD: (80 Hz, P = 0,1 Pmax, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm) % 0,085/0,058

Input sensitivity: V 0,21 — 8,7

Signal-to-noise ratio: db 82,5

Frequency range: (+0/-1db) Hz 17 — 140

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif Wow. Looks to be way overrated, even if PA uses 14.4 for their ratings....dont think going from 12.5 to 14.4 volts will make up for the difference of 745/1800......

Where was that tested at? If you have the paperwork, put it up in the birthsheet/benchtest thread.....Also, happen to have a 1 ohm rating?

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

that dosent seem right

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

that dosent seem right

Shit no it doesnt.

Everything Ive read on the amp say that it does its rated power, which is why I asked him for a copy of the benchtest, Id like to know one way or another......

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

there is no way it nly does 700 watts @2ohm, my viper does that

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

power acoustik isnt tthat sucky

 

[Goldtaz1 10+ year member]

A3000db data (Lab tested)
Actual power: (12.5 V, THD = 1%, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm) Wt 469/745

THD: (80 Hz, P = 0,1 Pmax, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm) % 0,085/0,058

Input sensitivity: V 0,21 — 8,7

Signal-to-noise ratio: db 82,5

Frequency range: (+0/-1db) Hz 17 — 140

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Don't know where you got that waste of information from but you need to take a close look at what a digital volt meter is reading out on the speaker terminals. My A3000Db is putting out 64.9 volts A.C. at the terminals. That number is basically with the input sensitivity not turned up. I guess because the signal I am sending the amp is already so strong the amplifier does not have to work near as hard to put out the wattage.

 

[AZsound 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif Wow. Looks to be way overrated, even if PA uses 14.4 for their ratings....dont think going from 12.5 to 14.4 volts will make up for the difference of 745/1800......Where was that tested at? If you have the paperwork, put it up in the birthsheet/benchtest thread.....Also, happen to have a 1 ohm rating?

These measurements have been lead by authoritative Russian magazine

"Avtozvuk" (CarSound in English) . The extensive test of amplifiers of other models of amplifiers has been lead. The test was spent in laboratory conditions. At measurement of capacity the stabilized power unit with a pressure 12.5 V has been used. For your interest I give the measured data for other amps. You will not believe, but MTX T81000d more powerfull than PA A3000db per 4 Ohm load //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

PA A3000db crossovers diagramm:

Rockford Fosgate P6001bd

Actual power(12.5 V, THD = 1%, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm), Wt 276/429

THD (80 Hz, P = 0,1 Pmax, 4 Ohm/2 Ohm), % 0.120/0.185

Input sensitivity, V 0.145 — 4.0

Signal-to-noise ratio, db 81

Frequency range (+0/-1db), Hz 13 — 170

RF crossovers diagramm

MTX T81000D

Actual power (12.0 V, THD = 1%, 4 Ohm), Wt 532

MTX crossovers diagramm:

to be continued

 

[james33440 10+ year member]

you'll need 0/1 awg power wire and ground. The amp does not need fuses, only the power wire does. I recommend a 200 AMP ANL fuse wired less than 11 inches from the battery post. You can get the fuse and fuse holder at http://www.knukonceptz.com
If anymore questions just shoot them at me, skeptikal, and Dave.

Um, actually the Fuse near the battery is just for that.... to protect the rest of the wire and/or the battery from damage.... the amp still needs a fuse/circuit breaker near the amp because that's what will protect the amp from damage.

ie, if the power wire near the amp is exposed somehow, possibly cut from the sheet metal of the car, then the wire will short out and possibly burn the insulation around the wire, this will cause the amp to blow unless you have a fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip.... So, ALWAYS use something to protect the amp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Anyway, any reviews on this amp? I am considering one for my XXX 15 as well....