Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know

[zane 10+ year member]

Josh, you pretty well beat me to the few points that I was going to make about the alt and current draw.

Either way- I have to this day measured NO voltage spike at initial startup on any car that I have worked on. This includes Fords, Chevys, Dodge's, Honda's, Jeeps, International's, etc.

I have however measured significant voltage drop at startup in each of these vehicles.

Car Audio Addict- I still wonder where the h*ll you came up with a 100 volt spike on a 12 VDC system. Please show me where you got this information. Otherwise- I call this a bunch of poo and call the bluff.

I've worked on cars and in shops for **** near 8 years now and have never once even heard of 100 volts going through a car. Well, unless it flew off the road and crashed into an AC Power Transformer.

Blah blah blah.....

BTW- a voltage regulator is not powered by the electrical system, it controls it.

In basic theory- the main purpose of the regulator is to "calm down" the alternator; or keep the alt from running at its maximum potential and only running at its specified 14.4VDC. The regulator makes sure that to much power does not get into the electrical components of the car- thus making actual "spikes" really not that major.

Originally Posted by CarAudioAddict:These (this post not the main post) are facts taken right out of "Chiltons Guide to Automotive Electrical Systems"

Price at approx $150, I don't think these guys are printing myths, or false info.

Thats kind of where I figured that you were getting your information. I'll put it this way- I currently have a chiltons manual for every car I own, as well as manuals for engine design, rebuilding, performance, etc all sitting in front of me right now. I could easily run an ink pen dry circling all the errors within them.

Chiltons gives a very general idea, however, try a better source next time to learn your charging system basics.

I personally reccomend and use Mitchell On Demand.

http://www.mitchellrepair.com

 

[CarAudioAddict 10+ year member]

My car has an aftermarket tach. the way it is hooked up it reads the RPMs of the vehicle as long as the ignition system is on. In Run or in Start

My starter turns my engine over at about 600RPM. The car has a 2.8L V6 and I bought a starter designed for a 454 a few years ago. I'm sure the more powerful starter will turn the engine at a higher RPM than the stock one would. I'd guess though that a stock starter would turn the engine at a minimum of 500RPM. During "bomb starting" I have to get the engine up to about 400RPM before it will even fire, this applies to just about every vehicle I've ever had to "bomb start". For those that never heard the expression, And I know that there are those that haven't, Bomb Starting is starting the vehicle by getting it up to speed and poppig the clutch while it is in gear - this forces the engine to turn over just as though you were starting it from a starter

It is possible that Chiltons is wrong on the spikes. But I'll trust Chilton long before I trust Haynes, and those are the only two books I've ever seen, Although I'm sure there are more.

I also know that as long as the alternator is turning and has 12V+ on the field circuit connector on the side of the alt, 6V+ on the other terminal in the same connector it will try to put out current. At extremely low RPM the output voltage is not sufficient to charge the battery or bring the system up to 14.4V. I verified this by attaching an old Alt to a veriable speed electric motor and a battery (to supply the field circuit). The alt would begin to increase the system voltage at about 375RPM much lower than a starter turns the engine over at. So the alternator would be putting out current during starting, unless there is some kind of computer/relay setup to disable the regulator during starting, but my car doesn't have one (verified with a voltmeter on the 6V connector on the side of the alt..

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif :banghead: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif

 

[jlaine 10+ year member]

Originally posted by ramos //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif :banghead: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif

Kinda where I was heading ramos... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

I have come to the realization that no matter how much you try to help. Sometimes it's useless //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[CarAudioAddict 10+ year member]

it's not useless. I just mention what I have found through research and general testing. If someone sees a problem I expect them to mention it, and explain why.

From the fact that you guys are "banging your heads", I assume I mentioned something that you didn't know, or that you REALLY disagree with. Please point these things out as I am more than willing to learn.

The Art of Arguing: 101

1. Explore all sides of the issue. If someone is having trouble grasping the concept explain it in simpler, easier to understand words

2. If someone mentions something, assume it is a fact, unless you absolutely know it to be wrong, then point out and explain why it is wrong.

3. Don't give up until the issue is completely explored, doing so just shows that you cannot explain yourself in enough detail to get your point across

What are the "holes" in my arguement. I want to lern but you guys won't give anyone a second chance (look what alaxan did to steven when he made a claim based on what some morons at a shop told him, and yes I know that I work at a shop but I would rather tell my customers facts than myths so point out my errors and explain why they are errors, I do read and consider all arguments to my posts)

Also, (I was re-reading the posts and saw something that I disagree with), the "fabled " Pyramid power supplies are the only part of a pyramid amp worth keeping, the rest of the amp is nothing but a noise trap. I will always recommend against pyramid but if thats what a customer wants that what I get him/her