JL TwK 88 AND FiX 86?

[Jhawker23]

I'm planning the install of a new system in a '16 Silverado Club Cab. I want to keep the stock h/u because it is well integrated and intuitive.

Fronts - JL Audio ZR650-CSi
Rear - JL Audio C2-650X Evolution™ Series (Also have Kappa 6.211is or Polk MMC6500 components if better choice)
Sub - JL 10W3v3
Amp - JL HD900/5

I'm hopeful this will sound great in the truck.

The installer is recommending both the JL FiX 86 AND the TwK88. It seems like overkill. I will not be making adjustments, I'll just jack it up. Does it seem necessary to have both? He wants to have time delay and alignment.

I also already have a LCQ-1 I could use. Maybe the FiX isn't even worth the extra $'s if the LCQ-1 is capable (but no time alignment).

Click to read more...

 

[JTF Vegas]

How serious about sound quality are you?

 

[Jhawker23]

Hmmm... I'm trying to figure out how to answer that... I do want to get the most out of some quality speakers and amp but do I need $950 in signal processing and adjustments? I'm just a regular dude that will not be screwing around with the adjustments. I should add that I wear hearing aids because of too much loud music in my younger days. Since audio is being processed through these things I'd think I'd lose SQ and possibly not hear the subtle improvements. The more I think about it, these hearing aids could really jack up the sound. They have this auto sensing function that adjusts frequencies based on environment. If I had it to do over, I'd still choose my music over my hearing.

I also think my idea of what sounds good is different than many audiophiles. I've had previous installs tuned and I've liked them warmer, more "full". My ideal is listening to some Mark Knopfler and the guitar envelops me and it feels like the sound is inside of me. Clear and "warm". Maybe some Shine On Crazy Diamond and be lost in the sound.

 

[Jhawker23]

Maybe a compromise between the LCQ-1 and the TwK and FiX combo? One unit vs. two. That would cut out about $100 install cost as well.

What about the LCQ-1 and the TwK together?

 

[02WS6]

I don't think you need all of that signal processing, especially with hearing aids. However if you're looking for a warmer sound I'd recommend that you sell your JL HD900/5 and replace it with a nice A/B amp like a Zapco Z-150.4 and get a separate D-Class amp for your Sub. Generally speaking the higher class A/B amps are known to provide a cleaner/warmer tone.

 

[JTF Vegas]

What he said, and please mind your hearing. No music listening is ever worth permanent hearing loss.

 

[Jhawker23]

I'm about 25 yrs too late.

 

[JTF Vegas]

Its never to late.
I like your music preference fwiw.

 

[JTF Vegas]

Too×

 

[Jhawker23]

Does the LCQ-1 ****? Maybe a different unit would be better but less than two JL's?

 

[Jhawker23]

I guess you can't use the word s^ck.

 

[fithwheel]

No signal processing with a factory hu? Does it have full range signal coming out of it? 2016 Chevy? No bass roll off no factory crossover and equalizion?Just curious

 

[Jhawker23]

This is the most I could find about the HU...

"I bought a $400.00 Oscilloscope and measured the output myself, what I found was quote interesting:



For the most part the signal is flat, however the stereo has some interesting characteristics. Using 0 DB test tones from 80 HZ to 16000 HZ, I played each track and checked the response on the scope. The stereo clips at max volume with 0 DB test tones between 80-125 HZ, again from 315-500 HZ, again at 1250 hertz and again at 12500 hertz. I set my volume 3 "clicks" of the volume knob lower and the signal produced cleanly throughout the entire range. The signal from the front to the rear is identical.



That being said, music is rarely played at 0 DB due to the fact that most mastering is done below 0 DB.



The stereo only has 4 speakers with the front dash speakers being tapped off the front door speakers, So if you want to keep your factory fade in tact, you can by tapping the signal from the front & rear doors.



As far as the door chime, it is absolutely deafening at 60 watts and the tone volume set to low. You can hear it from 40 feet standing outside the truck with all the windows/doors closed. That being said, I'm running 4 60 watt tweeters and 4 60 watt mids.



The signal cannot be turned off due to the canbus/gmlan that is used to transmit data from the radio to the BCM. However some clever people have intercepted the signal and filtered it using a micro controller and were able to change it that way."

 

[Jhawker23]

I found a Fix 86 for $250. I'm impatient and bought it.

 

[fithwheel]

This is the most I could find about the HU...

"I bought a $400.00 Oscilloscope and measured the output myself, what I found was quote interesting:



For the most part the signal is flat, however the stereo has some interesting characteristics. Using 0 DB test tones from 80 HZ to 16000 HZ, I played each track and checked the response on the scope. The stereo clips at max volume with 0 DB test tones between 80-125 HZ, again from 315-500 HZ, again at 1250 hertz and again at 12500 hertz. I set my volume 3 "clicks" of the volume knob lower and the signal produced cleanly throughout the entire range. The signal from the front to the rear is identical.



That being said, music is rarely played at 0 DB due to the fact that most mastering is done below 0 DB.



The stereo only has 4 speakers with the front dash speakers being tapped off the front door speakers, So if you want to keep your factory fade in tact, you can by tapping the signal from the front & rear doors.



As far as the door chime, it is absolutely deafening at 60 watts and the tone volume set to low. You can hear it from 40 feet standing outside the truck with all the windows/doors closed. That being said, I'm running 4 60 watt tweeters and 4 60 watt mids.



The signal cannot be turned off due to the canbus/gmlan that is used to transmit data from the radio to the BCM. However some clever people have intercepted the signal and filtered it using a micro controller and were able to change it that way."

You've done more homework then most typically do. Personally I haven't had to mess with factory integration. Sure I'll have to cross that bridge soon enough but know there can be a lot of issues without some processing/de equalization when using a factory hu. So thought I'd ask. I know I'd want to know what the signal was like before planning a system