JL amp 500.1 or 1000.1

limitkid7
5,000+ posts

sell wite
ok here's the situation

i have a mtx 9510 the rms is 750 watts

the 12w7 is 750 watts

i was either going to go w/the 500.1 or 1000.1.

i sent a jl tech this question asking about the w7 since the rms is the same b/w the two amps:

I have a 12w7 and I'm looking to run it in a ported box but my questions are;

Which amp would be better to power it with

500.1 or 1000.1

In using the 1000.1 on a 12w7 with the rms being 750watts won't that limit the life span of the sub b/c i'm overpowering it?

Will the 500.1 be sufficient enough to have this sub produce required out?

This is a very hard decision b/c i want to have the sub do what it was made to do but i don't want to be stuck having a strain on my eletrical system w/an amplifier that isn't even used to its full potential.



reply was

Hello Warren, the 500/1 will do an excellent job with a 12W7 in a ported enclosure. The 1000/1 can be used but you will have to make sure your electrical system can support it and that you don’t overdrive the subwoofer for long periods of time. The theoretical SPL difference between the two will be 3dB which may not be a big deal if you can reach satisfactory output levels with the 500/1.

after doing a lot of research i found this site that pretty much tells me that the 500.1 will be ideal for the set up i'm going for esp seeing that 620-733 watts

http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/jl_5001.html

JL Audio 500/1

http://www.jlaudio.com

JL Audio’s sub amp offers an adaptive and tightly regulated output.

JL Audio 500/1 Specs

Price & Contact: Call for pricing; Tel: 954-443-1100, Web:http://www.jlaudio.com

All measurements @ 14 volts unless otherwise specified.

Frequency Response (4-ohm IHF Load, 60 Hz Ref., crossover disabled): +.0dB, -3 dB @ 530 Hz

L/R channel error max deviation 20 Hz to 20 kHz: N/A

Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Below Rated Output, “A” weighted): -108.4 dB

Distortion at Rated Output @ 60 Hz: 0.17% THD+N @ 500 watts into 2 ohms

Output Power (Resistive) (4 ohms @ 60 Hz to 1% THD+N): 605 watts @ 14 volts; 601 watts @ 12.8 volts; 591 watts @ 10.5 volts

Output Power (Resistive) (2 ohms @ 60 Hz to 1% THD+N): 620 watts @ 14 volts; 604 watts @ 12.8 volts; 598 watts @ 10.5 volts

Output Power (Reactive) (4-ohm IHF Load @ 60 Hz to 1% THD+N): 639 watts

Output Power (Reactive) (2-ohm IHF Load @ 60 Hz to 1% THD+N): 733 watts

Crosstalk @rated output, 20 Hz to 20 kHz: N/A

Damping Factor, 2 ohms @ 50 Hz: 225

Voltage for Rated Output: 72mV to 8.3 volts

Idle Current Draw: 1 amp

Current Draw @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 26 amps @ 206.3 watts

Efficiency @ 1/3 Maximum Power: 57%

Power-Up Noise: 19.9 dB SPL

Power-Down Noise: 37.2 dB SPL

by Brian Smith

The 500/1 is a single-channel, class D subwoofer amplifier with a power rating of 500 watts into any load between 1.5 ohms and 4 ohms. Features include the Regulated Intelligent Power Supply, which is responsible for the single power rating, differential inputs, buffered preamp outs, internal crossovers with variable cutoff frequencies and selectable slopes, a parametric bass boost circuit with wired remote, and a variable infrasonic filter.

Performance

The 500/1 is the first class D unit that we’ve seen from JL Audio and, like the rest of their amplifier lineup, this unit can vary its output voltage potential to match the load being driven, thereby producing essentially the same output power into a wide range of loads. In the class A/B amps, this is accomplished by reducing the amp’s rail voltage when driving lower impedances. In the class D amps, the duty cycle of the high frequency carrier signal is reduced when driving lower impedances, which produces the same effect.

The sidebar with the specs pretty much speaks for itself. The 500/1’s adaptive and tightly regulated output appears to work quite well, providing about 600 watts into resistive loads under a wide range of test conditions. The amp also seems more than happy driving reactive loads and posted an impressive 733 watts into 2 ohms.

The only performance shortcoming appears to be efficiency. At 1/3 of its maximum output, the 500/1 measured 57 percent efficient, which is somewhat lower than the rest of the class D units that we’ve seen to date. In addition, the efficiency remains in the mid 50’s all the way to full output rather than increasing to the 80-percent-plus that we’ve seen in other units. The result is an amp with efficiency that’s about 30 percent better than a class A/B unit at 1/3 output and roughly equal at full output. Efficiency is the main advantage to class D amplification, but this amp is likely small enough to get away with compromising a bit.

Connections & Adjustments

All connections to the 500/1 are nickel-plated and include chassis-mounted RCA’s for input and preamp outputs, and captive terminal blocks for all power (4-gauge) and speaker (8-gauge) connections. Adjustments to the 500/1 include variable input sensitivity with high/low range selector, input signal sensing enable, infrasonic filter enable and variable cutoff frequency (15 Hz-60 Hz), crossover, and bass boost adjustments. There are two onboard crossover sections, one for the amp and one for the preamp outs. Both have variable cutoff frequency (40 Hz-200 Hz) and switchable roll off slope (12 dB- or 24 dB-per-octave). Both crossovers can be completely disabled and the preout unit can be configured for either high pass or low pass operation. The preouts can also take their signal from the amp’s low pass filter when daisy chaining multiple amps. The bass boost circuit provides parametric operation with variable adjustments for center frequency (20 Hz-80 Hz), filter bandwidth (or “Q”) (0.5 to 4), and boost (0 dB-+15 dB).

Installation

When it comes to installation considerations, it’s **** hard to find anything about the 500/1 to not like. For a start, there are the chassis-mounted RCA connections. By comparison, the input connectors on most amps are unimaginably flimsy.

The preamp section of the 500/1 is also quite impressive. Much like the 300/4 that we reviewed a few issues back, its flexibility and degree of control are head and shoulders above anything else that I’ve seen in an automotive amplifier. Among my favorite features are the detented frequency controls found on the crossovers, bass boost, and infrasonic filter. Rather than continuously variable pots, these controls utilize stepped adjustments and the owner’s manual lists the exact frequency at each click. The parametric bass boost is another very cool gadget. The center frequency adjustment covers a wide and sensible range of 20 Hz to 80 Hz, the bandwidth adjustment (Q) ranges from very narrow to ridiculously wide and the circuit can be completely bypassed if you so desire. Equally impressive (in a test-bench-geek kinda way), is that the circuit doesn’t effect the amp’s response at all if the boost knob is dialed to 0 dB. All of the amp’s filters are similarly well behaved. The infrasonic filter covers a far wider range than typical, so wide in fact, that it overlaps the lower half of the crossover’s range. It’s possible to nearly eliminate all output from the amp by misusing these controls. How’s that for flexibility?

On top of all that, you get a pair of buffered RCA outputs with an independent crossover with the same cool controls, a heat sink that’s more than just a heat storage device, and an amp that won’t quit no matter how heartlessly you drive it. The amp’s protection circuits cause it to reduce output rather than shut down completely. What else could you ask? Well...I’d really dig a cut/boost control on the parametric, but beyond that, I’m really drawing a blank.

 
500/1 will work great with the sub especially in a ported enclosure. You'll be getting more than the 500 watts advertised with that amp in any case considering that you'll be running it at 1.5 ohm.

 
the 500/1 is simply not enough. i wouldnt even bother with anything less than a 1000/1. oh wait, you could buy both of my 500/1s and throw one on each coil, hmmm.
the 500/1 is enough will it get louder with the 1000/1 sure but it's not necessary.

 
One thing alot of people need to understand is that why spend the money on the 500/1 and get it and not be that happy with it and want a 1000 they loose money on the resale loose money on the shipping and have to pay more for shipping in the long run why not just wait get the 1000 you have the power you hear everyone that it will take it. And then not have to toss on having to sell it if your not happy with it.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

limitkid7

5,000+ posts
sell wite
Thread starter
limitkid7
Joined
Location
GA
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
12
Views
2,419
Last reply date
Last reply from
limitkid7
IMG_1789(1).jpg

AJ (ACE)

    Jun 28, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
20260625_201728.jpg

Mike Mccabe

    Jun 28, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top