jbl... really 1200 watts?

I've heard from just about everyone that it puts out around 1300 watts RMS at 2 ohms...so I would tend to believe that what you heard isnt true and it is actually underrated...

 
Originally posted by Killa sin i have the jbl 1200.1 amp and the guy at sound advicce says that my amp ***** and he tested it and it was only about 700 watts? is this true? also, can the 1200.1 power a 12w7 good?
it probably does... but it doesn't mean it's loud!!! higher watts doesn't mean louder...

 
Originally posted by Killa sin i have the jbl 1200.1 amp and the guy at sound advicce says that my amp ***** and he tested it and it was only about 700 watts? is this true? also, can the 1200.1 power a 12w7 good?
700 watts? He probably tested it at 4 ohms...

The 1200.1 has been bench tested lots of times and the findings @ 1 ohm are around 1350, 1250 @ ohm, and 750 @ 4 ohms I think.

See where you fall if you were to power a 12W7 @ : http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

- Steve

 
Originally posted by jjoven1225 it probably does... but it doesn't mean it's loud!!! higher watts doesn't mean louder...
Send 100w rms to a sub, and then send it 200rms...you doubled the output of your amp...in theory that would mean a 3 db increase.

- Steve

 
Originally posted by ss3079 Send 100w rms to a sub, and then send it 200rms...you doubled the output of your amp...in theory that would mean a 3 db increase.

 

- Steve
you didn't defend youself....you just showed how doubling source power, doubles output (3 bd increase = double the output)....did you change your mind?

 
Originally posted by evo2k3 you didn't defend youself....you just showed how doubling source power, doubles output (3 bd increase = double the output)....did you change your mind?
what? i didnt understand what you just said //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Originally posted by evo2k3 you didn't defend youself....you just showed how doubling source power, doubles output (3 bd increase = double the output)....did you change your mind?
double the wattage=double the output=3db INCREASE=louder.

now lets refer back to:

"it probably does... but it doesn't mean it's loud!!! higher watts doesn't mean louder..."

more power=more output= "x" dB INCREASE=louder.

so how could it not get louder with more watts (providing the woofer can handle the power)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Amplifiers that are mass marketed through large electronics

supermarkets, and mail order catalogues are designed to make

their manufactures and dealers money, not to necessarily sound

good. In this market price is what sells product, and the reason

for that is simple enough. If your product sits on a shelf in a

mass merchants store next to 4 or 5 other products just like it,

what is going to make the customer choose yours? What you print

on the box. Since there are no qualified salespeople to help you

choose the right one, you are left to read each box carefully and

decide. The combination of what you read and the asking price

are the determining factors. A crappy amp and a decent amp are

rarely sold in the same place and here is an example of why. A

crappy amp and a decent amp both sit on a shelf side by side.

Both amps are the same physical size. The crappy amp has the

following specs printed on the box:

200WATTS X 200WATTS MAX POWER Frequency Response 20-20K

Not more than .7% total harmonic distortion @ 1 watt both

channels driven. REGULAR EVERYDAY LOW PRICE $179.00 NOW

$99.95 with 90 day warranty.

The decent amp has the following specs printed on the box:

40WATTS X 40WATTS RMS From 20 - 20K @ .07% THD. $249.00

Now judging from this information you would choose the crappy

amp. It has more power (way more power) and cost less, plus it's

on sale. FRED fell into this trap too, and so do about 500

people every day just in this city. The truth is that the bottom

amp, the decent one, is FAR better than the crappy amp. It has

FAR more power, and the difference in sound quality cannot even

be compared. How can this be you wonder? Both manufactures have

listed specifications for their amplifiers that are within the

boundaries of the law. One has stretched it to the limits of the

law, and one has slightly under rated theirs. This is the

difference between the two types of amplifiers. It is easy to

see why the better of the two products are not sold in mass

merchandise marts, and why the others are not sold in specialty

shops. A simple guideline to remember is the "DOLLAR PER WATT"

theory. A decent amplifier should cost MORE than one dollar per

watt. If you find an amplifier like the one in the sample above,

that is less than a dollar per watt, don't buy it. The sample

above calculates out to 25 cents per watt. The irony of this is

that the second amp is actually LESS money per watt than the

first. If you take the REAL watts that each puts out the figures

are like this: First amp total REAL watts is 50. That's $2.00

per watt. The second amp total REAL watts is 160. That's a

$1.55 per watt.

http://www.decware.com/secrets4.htm

 
Originally posted by GSteg double the wattage=double the output=3db INCREASE=louder.

 

now lets refer back to:

"it probably does... but it doesn't mean it's loud!!! higher watts doesn't mean louder..."

 

more power=more output= "x" dB INCREASE=louder.

 

 

so how could it not get louder with more watts (providing the woofer can handle the power)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
which one do you think will get louder???

http://www.millionbuy.com/pyrpb781x.html

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796&item=1947867344

i know im exagerating here, but just to prove a point... you'll understand more when you get more experience with car audio..

 
Originally posted by jjoven1225 Amplifiers that are mass marketed through large electronics

supermarkets, and mail order catalogues are designed to make

their manufactures and dealers money, not to necessarily sound

good. In this market price is what sells product, and the reason

for that is simple enough. If your product sits on a shelf in a

mass merchants store next to 4 or 5 other products just like it,

what is going to make the customer choose yours? What you print

on the box. Since there are no qualified salespeople to help you

choose the right one, you are left to read each box carefully and

decide. The combination of what you read and the asking price

are the determining factors. A crappy amp and a decent amp are

rarely sold in the same place and here is an example of why. A

crappy amp and a decent amp both sit on a shelf side by side.

Both amps are the same physical size. The crappy amp has the

following specs printed on the box:

 

200WATTS X 200WATTS MAX POWER Frequency Response 20-20K

Not more than .7% total harmonic distortion @ 1 watt both

channels driven. REGULAR EVERYDAY LOW PRICE $179.00 NOW

$99.95 with 90 day warranty.

 

The decent amp has the following specs printed on the box:

 

40WATTS X 40WATTS RMS From 20 - 20K @ .07% THD. $249.00

 

Now judging from this information you would choose the crappy

amp. It has more power (way more power) and cost less, plus it's

on sale. FRED fell into this trap too, and so do about 500

people every day just in this city. The truth is that the bottom

amp, the decent one, is FAR better than the crappy amp. It has

FAR more power, and the difference in sound quality cannot even

be compared. How can this be you wonder? Both manufactures have

listed specifications for their amplifiers that are within the

boundaries of the law. One has stretched it to the limits of the

law, and one has slightly under rated theirs. This is the

difference between the two types of amplifiers. It is easy to

see why the better of the two products are not sold in mass

merchandise marts, and why the others are not sold in specialty

shops. A simple guideline to remember is the "DOLLAR PER WATT"

theory. A decent amplifier should cost MORE than one dollar per

watt. If you find an amplifier like the one in the sample above,

that is less than a dollar per watt, don't buy it. The sample

above calculates out to 25 cents per watt. The irony of this is

that the second amp is actually LESS money per watt than the

first. If you take the REAL watts that each puts out the figures

are like this: First amp total REAL watts is 50. That's $2.00

per watt. The second amp total REAL watts is 160. That's a

$1.55 per watt.

 

http://www.decware.com/secrets4.htm
eerr..whats the point of this?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

but since we're on it, there is no way to tell how good an amp is simply by the "dollar to watt" ratio.

 
Originally posted by jjoven1225 which one do you think will get louder???

http://www.millionbuy.com/pyrpb781x.html

or

http://www.speakersound.com/index.html?loadfile=catalog181_0.html

 

i know im exagerating here, but just to prove a point... you'll understand more when you get more experience with car audio..
we're talking about REAL world watts (test benched), not advertised watts. if the pyramid amp puts out REAL watts, and say an Arc audio amp puts out 60 REAL watts, then the pyramid amp would be louder, PERIOD.

but i guess i'm not experience enough just like anyone else because i haven't gone to my local best buy lately and played admire rockford fosgate amps:rolleyes:

 
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