JBL BP1200.1 VS. Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D

[b0r 10+ year member]

My JBL BP1200.1 currently pushes my RE SXX12D4. My headlights take a beating and an Alternator upgrade is really out of the question because of the steep cost. My stock 160A Alternator should be able to handle ~1000watts. My question is, since my JBL is so old, is it drawing more power than the Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D would? The technology is like a decade apart...

The JBL is ultimately listed as "mono" but I would assume it's a Class D. Is the Super Class D worth anything in the HiFonics amp? Would I draw less amperage equaling less dimming? Ultimately is it worth the money to get an amp that was made after 2010 to help my power issue? Thanks.

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[All_Logix 10+ year member]

Have you done your Big 3? And while I cannot comment on the technology of the Super D, I am pretty certain that the advancements in technology have made amps more efficient over the years, so it is more than likely drawing more current. I think your problem is with those two amps you are rating quite a bit more than 1000 RMS.

 

[brynm 10+ year member]

I would keep the Jbl over a hifonics.

 

[destined2race 10+ year member]

ya if you havent done the big 3 definately do that, you could always do a battcap or just get a better battery up front (depending on what you have already).

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

I run an MB Quart PAB 1200.1 off stock electrical, no Big 3, and no extra battery or anything. My stock alt is 105 amp. I don't have any problems? You should be able to run that amp all day off 160 amp alt. Are you using at least a 4 gauge amp kit?

 

[b0r 10+ year member]

Sorry for the lack of initial info, I guess in my mind I was looking for a yes or no lol. I am in love with this Amp (My JBL), people are still after it years later and it just RUNS...heats up, doesn't quit. It's like it doesn't know how to fail.

My Dodge Charger already has THE only car battery in the trunk, and a run of 1AWG? from the Alt to the Batt. I'm pretty sure it's not 0GA so chances are good it's 1GA. The battery to chassis ground was this ****** little 8GA wire, so I bumped that to a 0GA. ALL of the wiring I have done is 0GA. The only 4GA wiring in the car is less than 3 feet long and it's from the Dist. Block to the Amp because the Amp won't take 0GA.

I have not done the Alternator to Transmission ground or whatever, but like....I didn't see it doing much and people wanted like 50-75 to put one in plus run a 0GA from my Alt to my trunk (I don't have garage space or tools) and I just assumed "It's already all 1GA wire...if that's not cutting it why will the 0GA? Adding to it doesn't help since it takes the path of least resistance anyway, so it would take my new 0GA" ect..

Another thing I had stuck in my head but I could be completely wrong...(By the way the battery the car and the amp run off is a XSPower D3400) Could the GROUND cause this problem? I had this in my head but it's just from a sensical standpoint, no degree in electronics. Since my battery is in the trunk, I have my amp grounded right to the battery ground. I was thinking to myself, let's say the sub hits and my lights dim, is it because my amp is grounded to the "source", and not to the chassis which may/may not cause that power request to go through the chassis ground and other things? Or because it's grounded in the trunk so close to the battery? But then I know that the Alternator is really the power supply here, and the battery is just a buffer...It's just pissing me off really. Do you think upgrading the 1GA to 0GA is going to have a "10%" effect?

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

Sorry for the lack of initial info, I guess in my mind I was looking for a yes or no lol. I am in love with this Amp (My JBL), people are still after it years later and it just RUNS...heats up, doesn't quit. It's like it doesn't know how to fail.
My Dodge Charger already has THE only car battery in the trunk, and a run of 1AWG? from the Alt to the Batt. I'm pretty sure it's not 0GA so chances are good it's 1GA. The battery to chassis ground was this ****** little 8GA wire, so I bumped that to a 0GA. ALL of the wiring I have done is 0GA. The only 4GA wiring in the car is less than 3 feet long and it's from the Dist. Block to the Amp because the Amp won't take 0GA.

T

I have not done the Alternator to Transmission ground or whatever, but like....I didn't see it doing much and people wanted like 50-75 to put one in plus run a 0GA from my Alt to my trunk (I don't have garage space or tools) and I just assumed "It's already all 1GA wire...if that's not cutting it why will the 0GA? Adding to it doesn't help since it takes the path of least resistance anyway, so it would take my new 0GA" ect..

Another thing I had stuck in my head but I could be completely wrong...(By the way the battery the car and the amp run off is a XSPower D3400) Could the GROUND cause this problem? I had this in my head but it's just from a sensical standpoint, no degree in electronics. Since my battery is in the trunk, I have my amp grounded right to the battery ground. I was thinking to myself, let's say the sub hits and my lights dim, is it because my amp is grounded to the "source", and not to the chassis which may/may not cause that power request to go through the chassis ground and other things? Or because it's grounded in the trunk so close to the battery? But then I know that the Alternator is really the power supply here, and the battery is just a buffer...It's just pissing me off really. Do you think upgrading the 1GA to 0GA is going to have a "10%" effect?

I'm just not knowledgable enough to answer that. Other folks will chime in here but it sure sounds you're hooked up well enough... It's gotta be something stupid and simple. Probably a ground. And btw I'd keep that JBL all day over the Hifonics.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Chances are the stock wiring isn't 1 gauge...lol. Maybe 2 gauge?

Also take into account the distances the current has to travel. The farther it travels the bigger the gauge needed to maintain voltage.

 

[b0r 10+ year member]

No it really is 1GA stock wiring...I mean that's all I've ever heard. Dodge Chargers stock wiring is 1GA BECAUSE of that distance. If it's 2GA, the upgrade would make sense.

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

Chances are the stock wiring isn't 1 gauge...lol. Maybe 2 gauge?
Also take into account the distances the current has to travel. The farther it travels the bigger the gauge needed to maintain voltage.

You wouldn't think he'd be having those problems with that amp and that alternator though would you? Weird....

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Depending on which alt you have, you have either the 78 amp, 151 amp, or 160 amp. I would get the serial number and cross reference it. If you have a 78 amp alt, that would be a serious issue.

Found the batt is a cheapo 750 ah batt, could use an upgrade.

And check the pos cable to next to a piece of actual 1/0 and see the difference.

 

[b0r 10+ year member]

The Alternator is a 160 AMP. Anywhere you search for an '06 SXT it provides a 160AMP as the direct replacement part but I can double check.

I upgraded the stock battery to an XS Power D3400. It was $300.

I'll get a picture of the power wire.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Yeah, the 160 amp is the replacement....with core charge. the 78 or 151 is stock. Chances are I am betting you have the 78. Hence why you are having problems.

 

[b0r 10+ year member]

04896 805AB, Listed as a Denso Alternator rated at 160A. Taken off the sticker on the Alternator.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Hmmm, well something seems odd then. Cause you have plenty of juice for that amp. Has to be in the wiring somewhere that you are not getting it through.