Is this a good ground??

i cant find it.....but i know i read somewhere voltage drops can led to clipping....oh well doesnt matter the setup is gone and that ground wont be used again....

shops FTW!!!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I believe you someone told ya. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

But, they were mistaken. Clipping occurs as a result of too high of input voltage (signal wire). What you are talking about is low voltage, and on the charging system's voltage. In other words, your stereo can be pounding away and dropping your system voltage down to 12-13volts (or whatever), but your signal voltage from the headunit will not be altered (and certainly not rise, which is what would need to happen for clipping to occur).

I honestly dont see how a poor ground could cause your subs to get smelly. It had to be another problem. Had I read that thread, I would have replied in the same manner then.

Hope this helps.

 
I dont care if they did grind the paint off, that's still ghetto as hell for a professional job. Id raise hell. If you drive back and show that to the guy in charge, he should be embarrassed and offer to fix it. If he doesn't and claims its functional, well that just shows you the quality of work you should expect from that place.
It should have been drilled out and one solid bolt used... not one sheetmetal screw, and certainly not 9 of them.
I don't see what the problem is with using a few sheet metal screws.

If it is a solid piece of chassis (not seam sealed), and is to bare metal... I see no problems with scuring a ground via self tappers. What else do you expect the installer to do? You do realize how many customers come in a day, and most only charge $45-60 for a full amplifier install.

So basically you're saying you dont understand how clipping occurs? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Low system voltage will NOT lead to amplifier clipping. Where is this rumor coming from lately?
This is the truth...

nG

 
I don't see what the problem is with using a few sheet metal screws.
If it is a solid piece of chassis (not seam sealed), and is to bare metal... I see no problems with scuring a ground via self tappers. What else do you expect the installer to do? You do realize how many customers come in a day, and most only charge $45-60 for a full amplifier install.

This is the truth...

nG
While I understand what you are saying, time is of the essence to an installer... that's just crap. Im sure you wouldn't do it, I wouldn't expect another paid professional to do so either. If it requires 9 sheetmetal screws, it requires something bigger than sheetmetal screws. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif A cordless drill, a drill bit and a bolt would make short work of a much better ground imo.
 
While I understand what you are saying, time is of the essence to an installer... that's just crap. Im sure you wouldn't do it, I wouldn't expect another paid professional to do so either. If it requires 9 sheetmetal screws, it requires something bigger than sheetmetal screws. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif A cordless drill, a drill bit and a bolt would make short work of a much better ground imo.
Anything involving the need for 1/0, I'll use a seat/belt bolt and bare metal... or an actual frame ground.

For something only needing 8guage, and sometimes 4guage, I'll do a solid chassis bare metal... with 2 self tappers usually... as long as it's secure.

nG

 
yea thats 0 gauge with 4 gauge also...

hmmm the install was:

build a box, face forward and sell off with panel behind it, run wires blah blah

box was smaller then i wanted and wasnt sealed off.

paid $890 yea eight hundred ninety dollars.

and it took from 4pm friday to 6pm saturday.

oh well, wont happen again.

 
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