is the reaudio calculator for two subs or one?

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well where do i get an accurate way to design a box because no one will come throught with a quick box design i just want to start building my box

 
ive read it over like 4,000,000,000 times and there are just parts of it i dont get. and even if i do try it im gunna be second guessing myself and if i end up making a box that ***** because of myself im gunna be so pissed

 
actually i just cant figure out the port length at all. i cant figure out how the hell to use winisd i dont know what half of it means

 
yeah i have it open when i start out alls it has is kicker L7's on there i have 2 kicker comp VR's how do i get passed that?

 
1) open win isd

2) select new project

3) the first driver that comes up, just press next, next, then select vented for the box type, next, forget the alignments, and press next. you should now get a graph and a little box pop up

tip: you do not need to select the driver you are using to get port length. just select the first one it gives you

4) select box and put in your volume, and tuning you are going to use

5) select vents. there is a white circle there. if you are going to use a round port, leave it alone. if you are going to use a slot port, click on the white circle

6) change the vent diameter to the height and width you are going to use

do a 4^3ft box tuned to 35hz with 60^2 of port (15x4 in this case), and tell me what you got as port length.

 
26.46

close enough. the difference is usally because winisd will change the tuning (if you go back to the box tab) to like 34.8hz or something which will change the length and make them somewhat different.

so in this case you would use 26.5" (always easier to go to the closest 1/4", hell you can go to 1/8" if you want, but i usually dont) and be done with it. now if this is going to be a standard slot port that uses the side of the box as 1 side of the port then you also need to subtract half of the port width from the port length.

in our example, you have a port length of 26.5 and a width of 4". so your port length needs to be 24.5". this is called end correction and is used because having only one flange that is open (ie one side) causes the air to follow the side of the box that makes up the other side of the port. so you have to shorten the calculated port length, to get the physical port length. the subwoofer will "see" the calculated port length when its all said and done.

hope i didnt confuse you.

 
you didnt i understand that all i have to remember is just subtract half of the width from the port length. now i have one more question.

the only reason you subtracted that was because the port is on the left or right side and the subs on the other so it would kinda look like this

| | O O |

if i do my box like that the volume for one sub is 2.3 cubes.

do i multiply that by two to get the total volume i need for 2 subs or do i just keep it at 2.3 cubes?

 
you didnt i understand that all i have to remember is just subtract half of the width from the port length. now i have one more question.
the only reason you subtracted that was because the port is on the left or right side and the subs on the other so it would kinda look like this

| | O O |

yes, as long as a port uses 1 side of the enclosure, you have to include end correction

if i do my box like that the volume for one sub is 2.3 cubes.

do i multiply that by two to get the total volume i need for 2 subs or do i just keep it at 2.3 cubes?

if you are going to use two subs, and each one requires 2.3 cubes (or if thats what you're aiming for) then you need a box that will be 4.6 cubes after all displacements (4.6 cubes net, not gross)
^^^^^

 
so 4.6 cubes after driver displacement and bracing right?
correct.

after the subs get loaded in and take up some volume, after the braces take up some volume, and after the port takes up some volume, there needs to be 4.6 cubic feet of unused space for the subs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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