Is it possible?

I'm just asking because from the sounds of it that's how he has it. That would explain why with a stock alt, batt, and no big 3 it drops & dims. I don't understand why he would manual charge it otherwise. If i'm wrong i'm sorry to assume.

 
Yeah with that you should be fine. You shouldn't have to charge anything. It would be better if you did get a HO alt though. And as said above .5 drop with 3K isn't bad at all. Do the big 3 and that should pretty much take care of your problems. Just be sure to sand the area you are putting your grounds to get good contact and put a fuse inline for your positive and you'll be fine.

 
No matter WHAT you do your lights are still going to dim... Headlights are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations - Some more-so in some vehicles than others, and when you start cranking on your stereo system, your voltage is going to fluctuate... Do your big 3, upgrade your batt under the hood & get an HO alt, this WILL HELP... But odds are your headlights will STILL DIM with your amp & sub doing work, unless you wire up a capacitor to your headlight circuit to keep the voltage they see from fluctuating...
How do you add that capacitor?

 
No matter WHAT you do your lights are still going to dim... Headlights are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations - Some more-so in some vehicles than others, and when you start cranking on your stereo system, your voltage is going to fluctuate... Do your big 3, upgrade your batt under the hood & get an HO alt, this WILL HELP... But odds are your headlights will STILL DIM with your amp & sub doing work, unless you wire up a capacitor to your headlight circuit to keep the voltage they see from fluctuating...
Switch to hids ..no dim at all...ive seen lights dim bad on .2v drop

 
How do you add that capacitor?
My buddy put a cheapo - so called "car audio" capacitor to use on his 96 F-150 to keep his headlights from dimming... This is about the only thing I've ever seen 1 of those useless things help lolz... Basically all he did was first find a spot where he could safely & securely mount it, then charge / connect it properly to his battery under the hood and spliced it right into the low beam headlamp circuit... I would get a wiring schematic and work off of that to find an effective way to do so 1st, as all vehicles are NOT the same & It may or may not be possible on certain vehicles, But it sure is working for him so far...

 
When you get the D3100, I would recommend moving the deka up front, and putting the D3100 in the rear. It is a better battery, and will be more useful to have next to the amp. I am surprised you are only getting .5 volt drop as is. I would suggest doing the big 3 before turning your system up ever again. You could end up melting the stock wiring with that much current.

 
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