Is fiberglass matting necessary?

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

im fabbing some enclosure for my comps right now. and i cannot, for the life of me, get the **** matting on. i tried tearing it as opposed to cutting it, but it just sticks to my gloves. i managed to get only a few small pieces on before the glass hardened and i couldnt go any further. do i even really need it? im only running 75wrms comps, so does it need to really be THAT strong. the first coat alone was pretty strong. it will take me like 10 years and $1,000 worth of wasted fiberglass before i'd even finish. TIA.

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[AzGrower 10+ year member]

Are you using the correct resin? It should stick fairly easy. Try "dabbing" resin on matting to get it started. The matting will turn clear or see through when its soaked. It usually isnt hard at all. What weight matting are you using? like 3/4 oz, 1.5 oz chop matte?

 

[BeanII 10+ year member]

sounds like you mixed your resin too hot sir. You should get at least 20 min of play out of it. Req's real good at glassing techniques........ (even though he didn't take any of my advice).haha. I've glassed quite a lot myself....

quick hints I'll give ya.

1-Your resin mixture should contain only 10-15 % catalyst. Obviously the more you use that faster it gets hard, and it may crack. But if you don't use enough it'll never dry.

2- Cut out all of your stuff ahead of time before you try and lay it down. One technique that I like is cut bigger pieces of teh matt in the shape of what ever it is you're glassing, soak em up and layer them together. Making sure the matt really soaks up the resin. Then putting on one big piece over the entire area. Using a roller (in needed) to form it.

Hope this helps a little.

P.S........ Try to cut and trim your sh1t while the resin is still wet. It makes life a lot easier.

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Are you using the correct resin? It should stick fairly easy. Try "dabbing" resin on matting to get it started. The matting will turn clear or see through when its soaked. It usually isnt hard at all. What weight matting are you using? like 3/4 oz, 1.5 oz chop matte?

i believe its the right resin. I think its Bondo brand. But i must have the wrong matting. Mine looks like a bunch of white straw mashed together. And how the heck do i get an accurate measurement of the hardener. i just did 14drops per ounce like the can says. thanx

Thanx Bean, for the tips

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

can i just use paper towel or something?

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

i believe its the right resin. I think its Bondo brand. But i must have the wrong matting. Mine looks like a bunch of white straw mashed together. And how the heck do i get an accurate measurement of the hardener. i just did 14drops per ounce like the can says. thanx

whatever the can says is perfect.

bondo brand, however expensive, is fine.

your matting, is fine.

if you are trying to put the matting on and its sticking to your fingers, try not to get the resin on your gloves - //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

one hand for the cup you hold, one hand for the brush. put a light coat over your area, and pick up a piece of matte (i like to rip pieces off, it conforms better to curves this way) and then put the glass down (without touching the resin with your gloves) and then use the brush to dab it into the resin and have it stick. then get some more resin on your brush, and paint the top. it should soak up (remembr the dabbing motion)

you can put down several pieces of matte down at once as you get better at this - but do your best to keep the resin off your gloves, or change them when they get soiled (lol) so it dosnt stick to you as badly.

ive gotten to a point, where i get literally NO resin on my hands while i work on a project, and i glassed my doors in about 15 minutes (2~3 layers)

keep practicing, and you will get it down too. and bean, i dont really have a need for those ideas yet. when i do my RL-S box, i may try it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i just dont see how it conforms to the kind of curves im playing with, and ATM - i dont need it that thick.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

can i just use paper towel or something?

not unless its made of woven fiberglass //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

ok thanx, but since im such a n00b at glassing, i know ill keep f*ckin it up. so do i REALLY need the matting? cause its like 1,000,000 times easier without it.

 

[BeanII 10+ year member]

ok thanx, but since im such a n00b at glassing, i know ill keep f*ckin it up. so do i REALLY need the matting? cause its like 1,000,000 times easier without it.

yeah, that's where the strength comes from. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

can you send any pics of what you're trying to do? That always helps to make recomendations.

 

[AzGrower 10+ year member]

ok thanx, but since im such a n00b at glassing, i know ill keep f*ckin it up. so do i REALLY need the matting? cause its like 1,000,000 times easier without it.

Yes thats what gives you the strength. You should only need a few layers for kick panel. Keep trying mane.

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

pix are a REAL pain in the ass. so im gonna hafta wait till i have time, i cant do it now.

but as for the hardness, its pretty **** hard already with only 2 coats. so if the matting only serves for strength purposes, then i think ill be fine bypassing it. it doesnt prevent cracking or anything does it?

 

[BeanII 10+ year member]

and bean, i dont really have a need for those ideas yet. when i do my RL-S box, i may try it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifi just dont see how it conforms to the kind of curves im playing with, and ATM - i dont need it that thick.

phhhhh //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif whatever.

No, I think the problem is what's lost in the translation over the internet. You know what I mean? I can't describe well enough the technique. I wish I could show you in person, then it'd make perfect sense. Maybe when those dudes buy you a ticket to dallas! If they do, I'll at least buy you a beer.

I don't work for beer, I work with it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

also, im going to be covering all the glass with my fatmat too. so that will add a bit of strength/protection.

 

[AzGrower 10+ year member]

also, im going to be covering all the glass with my fatmat too. so that will add a bit of strength/protection.

Not a good idea at all.

 

[jujumantb 10+ year member]

pix are a REAL pain in the ass. so im gonna hafta wait till i have time, i cant do it now.
but as for the hardness, its pretty **** hard already with only 2 coats. so if the matting only serves for strength purposes, then i think ill be fine bypassing it. it doesnt prevent cracking or anything does it?

haha you NEED the matting if it will be enclosing a speaker. I dont even think you can cal lit fiberglassing if you dont use fiberglass, it would just be resining... or something. Although it seems hard, you will probably get flexing with just resin. Trust me, slow down, take you time, and USE THE MAT!!!