Is FatMat any good?

hey rudy..how good is the b-quiet ultimate? I know the extreme stuff isn't good but what would you compare the ultimate too? I just bought a bunch to do my car and read pretty good reviews on it. I used cascade on my last vehicle but it was quite pricey and wasn't that easy to work with.

 
Don't get me wrong, I wish you and anyone else who does this the best of luck. Unfortunately, the SBR rubber used to stabilize the asphalt is sensitive to heat so using a heat gun makes it stick better but also hastens its failure. The most common times for failure seem to be after the 2nd and 3rd summers.
As I mentioned before, you may be one of the lucky ones for whom the stuff petrifies instead of melts, but nothing can make it more effective than it is. We don't see a lot of reports of long term success, but even the ones we see are sort of like the guy who smokes a pack a day and dies in a car crash at 100 - doesn't mean smoking is going to work for everyone.
Point taken. It will do fine in my hatch, (doesnt get hot down where it is), but I will probably switch to something better for the doors, as well as the floor when I get around to doing it.

Also, what is your top layer of choice? I use felt where there is no chance of moisture getting caught in it, which works REALLY well.But, obviously im not using that in the doors. Any thoughts? Raamaudio's ensolite looks pretty good.

 
hey rudy..how good is the b-quiet ultimate? I know the extreme stuff isn't good but what would you compare the ultimate too? I just bought a bunch to do my car and read pretty good reviews on it. I used cascade on my last vehicle but it was quite pricey and wasn't that easy to work with.
B-Quiet Ultimate is VERY similar to RAAMmat.

 
Point taken. It will do fine in my hatch, (doesnt get hot down where it is), but I will probably switch to something better for the doors, as well as the floor when I get around to doing it.
Also, what is your top layer of choice? I use felt where there is no chance of moisture getting caught in it, which works REALLY well.But, obviously im not using that in the doors. Any thoughts? Raamaudio's ensolite looks pretty good.
I didn't mean to jump on you, but pro-asphalt posts worry me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Top layers aren't strictly necessary, but they do protect the interior from adhesive at the seam, are very good for gasketing trim panels to reduce buzzing and may help reduce reflections. Any closed cell foam - Ensolite MLV, Second Skin Overkill, eDead's V4, Neoprene or pretty much anything that doesn't smell bad should be fine. If your goal is to stop noise intrusion into the passenger compartment look into one of mass loaded vinyl/foam composites available from a variety of sources. Barriers on top of a vibration damper are the best way to fight noise. I don't suggest gluing foam or barriers down on horizontal surfaces - just makes it harder to get back in there if you need to and gravity and your carpet or trim will do the job.

 
I didn't mean to jump on you, but pro-asphalt posts worry me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Top layers aren't strictly necessary, but they do protect the interior from adhesive at the seam, are very good for gasketing trim panels to reduce buzzing and may help reduce reflections. Any closed cell foam - Ensolite MLV, Second Skin Overkill, eDead's V4, Neoprene or pretty much anything that doesn't smell bad should be fine. If your goal is to stop noise intrusion into the passenger compartment look into one of mass loaded vinyl/foam composites available from a variety of sources. Barriers on top of a vibration damper are the best way to fight noise. I don't suggest gluing foam or barriers down on horizontal surfaces - just makes it harder to get back in there if you need to and gravity and your carpet or trim will do the job.
Didnt mean my original post to promote it, just noting the lack of failure so far, lol.

I know it isnt necessary, but it helps a TON with higher frequency noises that mat wont stop (grit getting kicked up, etc...). Example: I had the rear interior out of my car with 2-3 layers of fatmat applied in the lower hatch area. At stop lights, I could hear my fuel pump clearly and grit getting kicked up was VERY noticeable. After 1-2 layers of medium thickness felt (interior still removed), I couldnt hear the fuel pump under ANY circumstances, and transient noise like grit from the road, etc.. was MUCH less noticeable.

Have a link to the vunyl/foam composites referred to in your post?

I am actually working on my door panels a little right now. Stock; the back of them is bare press board material. I have cleaned it, put a few coats of duplicolor sound deadener on, and one thick layer of felt on top of that. Ill let everyone know what difference I notice.

 
I know it isnt necessary, but it helps a TON with higher frequency noises that mat wont stop (grit getting kicked up, etc...). Example: I had the rear interior out of my car with 2-3 layers of fatmat applied in the lower hatch area. At stop lights, I could hear my fuel pump clearly and grit getting kicked up was VERY noticeable. After 1-2 layers of medium thickness felt (interior still removed), I couldnt hear the fuel pump under ANY circumstances, and transient noise like grit from the road, etc.. was MUCH less noticeable.
Felt may be more dense than the foams I'm talking about and may have some barrier capabilities. 1/8" foam can only absorb frequencies above 25 kHz. so I don't like to promote it in a big way - although I do use it myself, not just as a top layer but behind all trim panels and crumpled up and stuffed into all sorts of crevices.

Is that felt you are using waterproof?

 
Felt may be more dense than the foams I'm talking about and may have some barrier capabilities. 1/8" foam can only absorb frequencies above 25 kHz. so I don't like to promote it in a big way - although I do use it myself, not just as a top layer but behind all trim panels and crumpled up and stuffed into all sorts of crevices.
Is that felt you are using waterproof?
No, which is why I dont use it where I could get leaks.

However, I am experimenting with putting it down and then coating it with duplicolor spray on sound deadener (pretty much underbody spray, but harder when cured and more temp resistance); which should keep any water from being absorbed. After my test piece is done im going to see how it holds up to 130-150degrees for a few hours.

 
wonder if anyone has ever tryed to make a claim...i just dont see how they can make a vlaim on failure. ifi t falls off they say it wasnt installed correctly, if it doesnt damlify then they didnt use enough.

i just dont see how a warranty on deadener would work.

 
Failure of any kind
just so you know, I read the warranty and there were two ambiguities that might (probably) be intentional. 1) It isnt totally clear whether that will cover it falling off.

2) They wont give you a refund, just provide you with replacement material.

 
just so you know, I read the warranty and there were two ambiguities that might (probably) be intentional. 1) It isnt totally clear whether that will cover it falling off.2) They wont give you a refund, just provide you with replacement material.
1) If your not a retard, they cover it

2) You were expecting a refund? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
Something else I have used that is very effective, while a little unconventional, is rubber carpet runner. Im not talking about your normal carpet runner with holes in it. There is a kind that is a solid VERY dense rubbery foam material. The problem is the only time I have seen it (I bought the whole roll from lowes) it was a little too thick for use in cars where stuff has to fit down over it (although it does compress a good bit.

here is what I found; just need something a little thinner:

Oh yea, I think I payed $30 for this whole roll (at least 30sq feet)

80077588_251865013_02.jpg


80077730_251865472_01.jpg


 
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