Is FatMat any good?

Yeah, it's pretty good to wipe your *** with...
I'd recommend the RAAMmat, 1 roll would be enough for a layer on your trunk and doors.

nG
Have you ever used it? Or do you just go on other peoples assumptions?

I have used plenty of deadeners in my time, Hushmat, Dynamat, Secondskin, and other el cheapo's and Fatmat is doing perfectly fine in my car.

 
I don't use it.

I've installed it before for other people, and dealt with it before in other people's installs throughout my years of installing on a daily basis. I've also had exeprience with a multitude of deadeners, from Dynamat Original, Dynamat Xtreme, Stinger, SecondSkin, Fatmat, BrownBread, Cascade, eDead, peel-n-seal, etc, etc, etc...

It's okay, that's it. I feel that the RAAMmat and the SecondSkin are both superior products. Cascade also makes some great deadening. One roll of raamat is a little more expensive, but you're getting more product as well.

nG

 
I don't use it.
I've installed it before for other people, and dealt with it before in other people's installs throughout my years of installing on a daily basis. I've also had exeprience with a multitude of deadeners, from Dynamat Original, Dynamat Xtreme, Stinger, SecondSkin, Fatmat, BrownBread, Cascade, eDead, peel-n-seal, etc, etc, etc...

It's okay, that's it. I feel that the RAAMmat and the SecondSkin are both superior products. Cascade also makes some great deadening. One roll of raamat is a little more expensive, but you're getting more product as well.

nG
Yes, I agree the higher priced products are better in SS and Raamat........never used Cascade, but for the price, it is not bad. It has quieted down my car quite a bit and if I need more deadener, I would probably get more of that just being in my budget and all.

If you have the money, of course get Second Skin.

 
I am going to try fatmat out too since i am on a budget. Its cheap so if it does not work good o well.
Oh, it will work VERY WELL.

I've done two trucks with it, from headliner to under the carpet, and everything inbetween. my only complaint is the stupid logo they have on it, gets all over your hands with this crazy blue. Other than that, much like audio equipment, its more about install than the product itself. Take you time, Do it right the FIRST time, and you will be pleased //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Oh, it will work VERY WELL.
I've done two trucks with it, from headliner to under the carpet, and everything inbetween. my only complaint is the stupid logo they have on it, gets all over your hands with this crazy blue. Other than that, much like audio equipment, its more about install than the product itself. Take you time, Do it right the FIRST time, and you will be pleased //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Good. I am just installing this for my pleasure. If it sounds good to me I will be happy.

 
Oh, it will work VERY WELL.
I've done two trucks with it, from headliner to under the carpet, and everything inbetween. my only complaint is the stupid logo they have on it, gets all over your hands with this crazy blue. Other than that, much like audio equipment, its more about install than the product itself. Take you time, Do it right the FIRST time, and you will be pleased //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I agree about the logo. Gets all over your hands. Looks like a blue logo, but comes off purple on your hands and is a bish to get off.

 
last year when i did my rex i ordered from fat mat. 2 months later i still had not received the fat mat. it took me about a week of constant calling to get in touch with someone. at that time she told me that they did not know when they would have it. when i ordered it i was not told they did not have it. they pissed me off so i went with dynamat extream and was very pleased .

 
Hmm maybe I should get some fatmat for the doors since its cheaper and then some rammat for the trunk.
I am going to try fatmat out too since i am on a budget. Its cheap so if it does not work good o well.
Please don't.

I agree about the logo. Gets all over your hands. Looks like a blue logo, but comes off purple on your hands and is a bish to get off.
And that ought to tell you something. If you want to stop the owner of FatMat dead in his tracks, ask him how FatMat differs from Peel & Seal. As far as I can tell, the only difference is the logo. I have been involved in several debates with the guy on a few different forums and after many, many posts, that question makes him disappear.

If you are willing to use a much less effective product that carries serious risks of failure - either falling off or melting, why pay extra for somebody to stencil a label on something that is indistinguishable from the Peel & Seal you can buy at Lowe's for less? If you don't want to go to Lowe's, why not just buy P&S from the roofing supply company run by the guy who runs FatMat?

Looking at the value these products represent in terms of price per ft² really misses the point. You need to consider price per unit of mass AND the product's material properties. Butyl is always going to beat asphalt by a significant margin even when you are comparing products that weigh the same. Butyl is viscoelastic and asphalt is not. This means that much less butyl adhesive deadener will work better than much more asphalt, since all the asphalt can do is add mass. I've seen estimates from 2:1 - 4:1.

People like to ignore the functional differences and bring everything down to a question of reliability. The history of asphalt products failing in sound deadening applications has been very well documented. This goes well beyond "assumption". You will hear that asphalt failure is the result of poor installation technique but this is false. Asphalt will fall off immediately if you don't apply it correctly, but no matter how you install it, as soon it is applied you are in a race. The VOCs (toxic fumes) that keep asphalt flexible start outgassing. At the same time, the rubber compounds that give these products there limited heat tolerance start deteriorating. If you are lucky enough to have the VOCs completely evaporate before the stabilizers fail, you will be left with inert crud that will probably not fall off and can't melt. If the rubber goes first, you are left with material that will melt at very low temperatures.

A few years ago, I used to have fairly regular forum debates with Jacob from Sundown and Shon from ROE. Both advocated using Peel & Seal. Jacob in particular had an almost OCD level install technique. My point then, as now, was that if it doesn't fail, it will be better than nothing, but it will never be as good as a proper butyl/aluminum foil product. Both agreed with the performance aspect but insisted that the reliability issues can be controlled. Both have changed their positions after having the asphalt melt out after a couple of years. I only use these two examples because many of you will know them and can verify my version of things if you like. I've heard from dozens of others with the same story.

This fight can go on and on and since most failures occur after one, two or three years, many of the people who experience failures have moved on or are too embarrassed to report back. None of this really matters. When you consider performance per dollar spent, butyl/aluminum foil products will meet or beat the much cheaper per ft² asphalt every time. Being on a budget should lead you to buy less of a good product than more of a bad one.

Full coverage is the easiest way to apply vibration dampers but it is far from the most effective. The outside third of any panel will not benefit much from adding a sound deadener. Similarly, areas near bends in the sheet metal, welds, seat mounting points, etc. will yield little to no improvement. By using decent materials and applying them with a little thought, you can do a better job for less money and less work than you will achieve using asphalt with none of the downside.

 
fat mat has to be better than the cheap ED stuff (i do like ED liquid though)...that came up off my floor LOL usually get what you pay for..liquid wise is good for big panels but when it comes to stick on hushmat, second skin, dynamat (still my fav), raamat (squeak9798 has that and looks good) are all worth the money. a door done in 2/3 of the way in one layer of dynamat worked better than 2 full layers of cheap stuff on a door on the other side....needless to say i bought more dynamat

 
fat mat has to be better than the cheap ED stuff (i do like ED liquid though)...that came up off my floor LOL usually get what you pay for..liquid wise is good for big panels but when it comes to stick on hushmat, second skin, dynamat (still my fav), raamat (squeak9798 has that and looks good) are all worth the money. a door done in 2/3 of the way in one layer of dynamat worked better than 2 full layers of cheap stuff on a door on the other side....needless to say i bought more dynamat
There have been two versions of the eDead mats. The first was a P&S clone or actual P&S so about the same as FatMat. The current version (names ending with ²) use a butyl adhesive and a Mylar facing instead of much more effective aluminum foil. Not only does this compromise performance but there have been several reported and easily reproducible, failures.

Two factors determine quality - the quality of the adhesive and the thickness of the foil (the thicker, the better). Using these criteria, RAAMmat and B-Quiet Ultimate are pretty similar, decent adhesive and 2 or 3 mil foil. Dynamat Xtreme is a step up. Cascade V-Max and Second Skin Damplifier are better still. Xtreme, V-Max and Damplifier all use a 4 mil foil. The new version of Damplifier Pro uses a 6 mil foil - very impressive. Hushmat uses a pretty good adhesive but has a pretty thin foil with some sort of paint coating.

 
Coming up on 1 year since installing fatmat in my car. I live in alabama, the car gets daily driven, and obviouosly it gets hot as shit inside the car. had my door panels off today to neaten some wiring up, and every piece of fatmat I put on is still perfect. I tried to take a piece off and after finally getting enough up to pull on, I concluded it wasnt coming off without a heat gun. But, When I installed the mat I got the surface and mat really hot with a 300degree heat gun, so maybe thats why it is working so well.

 
Coming up on 1 year since installing fatmat in my car. I live in alabama, the car gets daily driven, and obviouosly it gets hot as shit inside the car. had my door panels off today to neaten some wiring up, and every piece of fatmat I put on is still perfect. I tried to take a piece off and it took some serious effort. But, I did install it with a heat gun.
Don't get me wrong, I wish you and anyone else who does this the best of luck. Unfortunately, the SBR rubber used to stabilize the asphalt is sensitive to heat so using a heat gun makes it stick better but also hastens its failure. The most common times for failure seem to be after the 2nd and 3rd summers.

As I mentioned before, you may be one of the lucky ones for whom the stuff petrifies instead of melts, but nothing can make it more effective than it is. We don't see a lot of reports of long term success, but even the ones we see are sort of like the guy who smokes a pack a day and dies in a car crash at 100 - doesn't mean smoking is going to work for everyone.

 
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