Is anything wrong with this Honda accord set-up

here is the setup: 2003 Honda accord ex-l, stock head unit, Rockford fostgate 400w 2ch amp bridged into an alpine SWS-1240D 12" sub in a hand made box. there are hardly anything on the internet about this sub but I can tell you it is dual voice coil both being 4ohms. My guess is this amp has a peak at around 600W soo im not too terrified I'll blow it. my main concern is how im going to wire the remote for the amp. I don't like the tacky idea of getting the 12v power outlet things to plug into. If there was one inside the trunk then It wouldn't be a big deal. I was hope someone else had a crazy idea with this car such as T'ing into maybe the power wire for that 12v cigarette lighter or even into the power wire for the tail lights that are back there in the trunk. I haven't actually put this together yet. I also think i'm planning on Ting into the speaker wire from the rear shelf speakers soo that they still work and that way I don't have to take out the back seats to screw them out and I don't have to take out the head unit to splice into the wire's there.

 
not sure if it works on all cars (did on both of mine), but try wrapping that remote wire around your windshield wiper fuse or radio fuse. should provide the 12v to turn ur amp on, and it will be fuse protected.

 
So the remote does require 12v? or could it just be that it is anything above 0 since its just a switch. And that's a good idea. I haven't looked around much under the hood at where the wires go and the fuse box and all that. and you are saying to splice the wire right after the fuse? for either the radio or wiper?

 
not sure if it works on all cars (did on both of mine), but try wrapping that remote wire around your windshield wiper fuse or radio fuse. should provide the 12v to turn ur amp on, and it will be fuse protected.
dont be that ghetto. they have inserts you can pick up at most auto parts stores that slide along side the prong for the fuse that gives you a spade conn on it. If the cig lighter is a switched source then tapping into the 12v wire for the cig lighter will suffice as well.

 
So the remote does require 12v? or could it just be that it is anything above 0 since its just a switch. And that's a good idea. I haven't looked around much under the hood at where the wires go and the fuse box and all that. and you are saying to splice the wire right after the fuse? for either the radio or wiper?
remote needs 12v! if you have a dmm you can test fuses in the panel and find one the gets hot when keys is in ACC position. But I would suggest not just wrapping a wire around the fuse and putting it back in. Also wire fuse inline close to the source you are going to be tapping. Fuse doesnt have to be much cuz amp draw from the remote on amp wont be much.

 
why buy something when you can just twist the wire around a fuse blade and insert it? i've had mine done like that for 6+ years and never had an issue and it aint like you can see the wire. i live in atl, i know ghetto. my remote wire aint ghetto lol.

 
the ignition wire can be used for the remote turn-on. while this turns the amp off when the car is off, the amp is on when the radio is off. this can cause noise.

you have a few options:

1. buy a LOC with an auto turn-on feature. David Navone Engineering has one i recommend.

2. add a wire to the stock head unit that adds a true remote turn-on. i did this to my factory 6-disc changer head unit for my 01 accord. i had to open up the radio to add this.

3. change the amp to one with an auto turn-on feature.

4. add a toggle switch to the remote turn-on wire powered by radio ignition power. then you can manually turn the amp off when you want to turn the head unit off. remember - amp on last, amp off first.

5. never turn off the head unit and use radio ignition power.

issues like these are why i don't recommend using igntiion wires for amp turn-on and why I recommend a good LOC with auto turn-on.

 
The exact model number for the amp will help, but in general, RF amps are NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. Attempting 2 ohm bridged can damage the amp, hopefully it will protect itself from failure - depends on how old it is. Use that amp for front speakers and buy a mono block amp for the sub. Use the right tool for the job.

 
The exact model number for the amp will help, but in general, RF amps are NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. Attempting 2 ohm bridged can damage the amp, hopefully it will protect itself from failure - depends on how old it is. Use that amp for front speakers and buy a mono block amp for the sub. Use the right tool for the job.
only the new power series a/b amps are 2ohm stable bridged but I can tell you right now even with proper electrical they don't like it and get hot as hell!

 
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