Is a second Batt. worth it?

[j1b1e1 10+ year member]

I'm posting because I'm seeing others experience on a second batt. I've upgraded the alt. and my amps are still clipping on voltage. I've got two 1000/1's, 0 awg from the alt to the front batt, the batt pos. to a disrto block next to the amps, and I'm grounded well at the front batt...

If I turn it up too much my amps clip on low voltage. This point seems to vary (sometimes it's 16 on the radio - others it's 20). I suspected loose wiring and tracked everything to no avail. I also am concerned as to the output of the alt (it's a Ohio Gen H.O. Alt.).

So, would the addition of a Kinetik HC2400 in the back be helpful? Also, I'd be changing out the main batt for a HC1800 at the same time. I installed a Batcap 400 yesterday to see if it'd help and I saw NO*(see below) effect.

*Disclaimer -I did no formal testing and no meter used and no voltage read.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Click to read more...

 

[schackel 10+ year member]

you could use a battery yes. i have two for sale if you are wanting any

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

I'm posting because I'm seeing others experience on a second batt. I've upgraded the alt. and my amps are still clipping on voltage. I've got two 1000/1's, 0 awg from the alt to the front batt, the batt pos. to a disrto block next to the amps, and I'm grounded well at the front batt...
If I turn it up too much my amps clip on low voltage. This point seems to vary (sometimes it's 16 on the radio - others it's 20). I suspected loose wiring and tracked everything to no avail. I also am concerned as to the output of the alt (it's a Ohio Gen H.O. Alt.).

So, would the addition of a Kinetik HC2400 in the back be helpful? Also, I'd be changing out the main batt for a HC1800 at the same time. I installed a Batcap 400 yesterday to see if it'd help and I saw NO*(see below) effect.

*Disclaimer -I did no formal testing and no meter used and no voltage read.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Batteries will help the amps from seeing too low of voltage (as long as the batteries stay charged).

 

[j1b1e1 10+ year member]

Staying charged with the two 1000/1's seems like the challenge. I thought my alt would solve the problem of them clipping, it didn't. Now I'm looking at batteries for the cause/solution. In this scenario does the second batt. sound like it would be worth tackling? The alt's a 200 amp and I'm still wondering if it's charging correctly...

Also, is it necessary/recommended to run a 0 awg neutral from the starter batt to the rear batt.?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Staying charged with the two 1000/1's seems like the challenge. I thought my alt would solve the problem of them clipping, it didn't. Now I'm looking at batteries for the cause/solution. In this scenario does the second batt. sound like it would be worth tackling? The alt's a 200 amp and I'm still wondering if it's charging correctly...
Also, is it necessary/recommended to run a 0 awg neutral from the starter batt to the rear batt.?

A good battery system will help the alt. An AGM battery system (2 batteries) is easier to charge than a regular flooded battery set up. I would make sure your alt and battery are working properly and get a solid group 31 sized agm battery in back. Examples would be a Kinetik HC2400, Odyssey P2150, Deka 9a31. For the best performance I would switch out the battery under the hood as well for an AGM of the same type you are putting in back. For the best lifespan and performance they should be the same size and type.

I would run 2 0 ga wires between the batteries front to rear ( 1 pos 1 neg)and fuse the pos wire 2 times within 18" of each battery.

 

[j1b1e1 10+ year member]

I understand and agree with your statement (esp. the fusing of the wire). My real concern here is if the additional battery/s will solve the under voltage condition.

I see on Kinetik's website they too recommend a run of neg wire from the front to the back.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Yes, you need to add a second battery.

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

d3400 under the hood and d3100 in the back.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

buy mine.

 

[TheJuggla1 10+ year member]

2 Batteries of the same Type and Lifespan won't wear out each other as much as 2 differnent ones do, just something to keep in mind.

And when you add your second one, put it as close to the amps as possible since the energy only will have to travel a small distance losing almost no energy.

 

[Kern417 10+ year member]

Ground the front battery and alternator with 1/0 to finish the big 3 and make sure the fuse on the wire from the alt to bat is 300a (or at least bigger than your alts maximum output)

 

[j1b1e1 10+ year member]

Good input from everyone and thanks.... Now for more questions...

I've grounded the front Batt with 1/0, but not the alt - How and why? I'm assuming from a mounting bolt to the chasis.

I can see the importance of the fuse from the batt to the alt. I'd gotten different points of views on this an decided not to go that route. However I can see with a larger fuse the resistance would be slim to none.

I know the batts will help, but is there a chance that my alt's not putting out the amps it claims? I ask this because at a high rpm (4K+) the lights on my dash blink like the internal regulator might be taxed (a guess). It's to a pattern so I don't feel it's due to belt slippage and I don't see black on the alt case.

Thanks again for the input everyone!

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

you dont ground the alt. you run 1/0 wire from the alt pos to ur batt pos. batt neg to chassis and chassis to engine block is how mine is.

 

[j1b1e1 10+ year member]

That's the first thing I did.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

you need a 2nd battery man have the alt checked as well just in case