interesting midbass question

magic_wizard
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We all know that the dimensions of a box and its port determines its tuning frequency. Is the same true for a midbass driver installed in a door? Suppose one doesn't cover up all the holes when installing dampener to the door. Could these holes give the door a certain tuning frequency? Moreover, is it possible for each door to have a different tuning frequency if the amount and size of the holes on each door is different?

 
Tuning an enclosure applies to any type of driver...
However, the holes in the doors are not designed in such a way that they'll act like a tuned "port". Instead, they'll act as giant openings that allow the back wave to cancel out portions of the front wave...which isn't good. Basically the same reason we don't just cut a giant hole out of the top of a sealed enclosure and call it a "port"......

Though it surely is possible to create a tuned, ported enclosure for your mids. I wouldn't suggest trying it with just any old mid, as most car audio mids are designed for infinite baffle use. I'd use something like the RE XXX6.5, or most any home audio mid.

 
However, the holes in the doors are not designed in such a way that they'll act like a tuned "port". Instead, they'll act as giant openings that allow the back wave to cancel out portions of the front wave...which isn't good. Basically the same reason we don't just cut a giant hole out of the top of a sealed enclosure and call it a "port"......
Though it surely is possible to create a tuned, ported enclosure for your mids. I wouldn't suggest trying it with just any old mid, as most car audio mids are designed for infinite baffle use. I'd use something like the RE XXX6.5, or most any home audio mid.
Thanks for the info. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I was basically trying to figure out why the midbass sounded different from each door. Recently, I decided to dampen the plastic door panels because they were resonating like hell even though the metal was dampened and the woofers were mounted to mdf onto the doors. When I took the panels off, I noticed that the jackass installer didn't cover up all of the holes when he dampened the doors awhile ago w/second skin (I do most installs myself, but I had no idea how to reach the inside of my door back then) So I cleaned up his install and covered up every hole, except for one in the rear of the door where the door latch mechanism runs through. The result? Midbass sounds much cleaner, tighter, can handle more power, and I can set the crossover to 50 Hz instead of 63 or 80. Imaging is also better. Now, I need to do the right side...

DIY >>>>>>>> "Professional Intall"

 
DIY >>>>>>>> "Professional Intall"
I have found the same result in every situation except my favorite shop in town. Most installers just want your money and don't really know what they're doing. A friend of mine had a BB installer run 2 seperate power wires to run the two amps in his car. They ran one down each side and one right next to the rca's. needless to say this created a gigantic magnetic field and tons of alt whine. The BB installer had no idea why it was happening. They even made his pay for the installation!!!!

 
I have found the same result in every situation except my favorite shop in town. Most installers just want your money and don't really know what they're doing. A friend of mine had a BB installer run 2 seperate power wires to run the two amps in his car. They ran one down each side and one right next to the rca's. needless to say this created a gigantic magnetic field and tons of alt whine. The BB installer had no idea why it was happening. They even made his pay for the installation!!!!
is the alt whine u speak of the kind of whine where u crank up the car and when u go to pull off the extra electricity needed to accelerate makes the alternator whine? cause this is my situation. but my power wire doesn't run next to a my speaker or rca wires.

 
I have two 4AWG wires running next to my RCAs (3 sets) with absolutely no speaker wine (zip stripped together) or lead-in thump. From the sound of the "professional installer", he used the stock speaker wire for the install. Try disconnecting the RCAs from the AMP and if it still wines, the problem is in the ground for the AMP. If the wine cuts out, the problem is in the head unit ground or antenae ground. Disconnect the ant. if it could be the head unit. If the speakers still have alternater wine, the problem can be fixed by regrounding the head unit. If the problem cuts out when the ant. is removed, you need a new antenae.

All my wires for my stereo are Stinger wires if anyone wanted to know.

 
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