Interesting issue with polk comps and a kicker ZX amp

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

Where the gain knob is doesn't mean jack if you don't know your input voltage.

Check the tweet's resistance with a dmm.

 

[Abel 10+ year member]

it is probably the ohm load. the ZX is very picky at 1 ohm and lower

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

it is probably the ohm load. the ZX is very picky at 1 ohm and lower

so he wired up his polk comps to run under a 1 ohm load.....

that zx is running his comps...i really doubt his comps are anything lower than 4 ohms

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

yeah im not running comps at 1 ohm lol. I wired exactly how both kicker and polk referred to.

 

[SlamSession 10+ year member]

Super, on post #12 you mention that both amps are grounded to the battery ? You are supposed to "ground" the amps to the vehicle's chassis, not to the battery. Since you have two amplifiers, I suggest you get a fused distribution block. You will have a red wire thats connected to your battery's positive terminal. That wire(usually a 4 gauge size) is connected to one side of the distribution block and then you will have two wires coming out of the distibution block that will connect to the amplifier's positive connection. Also, I'm not really sure what the total wattage of both amps is that are being used, but I suggest you purchase an Optima Yellow Top battery and mount it in the back of your vehicle, you will need an battery isolator for that. Also you need to get a 1 Farad capacitor, it's recommended 1 Farad for every 1000 watts of power you are using. They do make .5 or 1/2 Farad capacitors, that would be for for every 500 watts one 1/2 Farad capacitor is recommended. Also an aftermarket high output alternator would be great. Without those items your vehicle's electrical system is being "overkilled". A rule of thumb is your headlights should not dim while you are playing your sound system. Remember, when the manufacturer designed the vehicle, they did not calculate a sound system in the electrical system.

Here are some websites for the things you need, Good Luck:

Stinger battery isolator:

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/39420/SFV/30046

Fused Distribution Block:

http://www.streetwires.com/products/fusedDistBlock/positiveDistBlocks.cfm

Ground Terminal(from the negative connection of you amp to the vehicle's chassis):

http://www.streetwires.com/products/groundTerminals/

1 Farad Capacitor(s):

http://www.streetwires.com/products/powerStationCaps/index.cfm

Stinger high output alternator:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/prodDetail.asp?strID=47

Optima YellowTop battery:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive.html

 

[SlamSession 10+ year member]

Just in case( I got this from a website in geocities):

How does a Battery Isolator work?

It's an electronic sealed unit that contains two diodes.

Diodes permit current to flow in one direction only. Power supplied to the middle stud of the Battery Isolator flows to each of the other studs. Current cannot flow back from one of the batteries to the other battery. Charging current flows preferentially into the battery with the lowest charge (because of the higher potential difference).

Because they're solid state, isolators have a long life. They're not susceptible to contaminants, vibration, or extremes in temperature.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

so your telling me grounding both my amps to a battery, which is less then 2' from the amps, is wrong? okay.......