Installing Isolater

[TheJuggla1 10+ year member]

My main question is the do I need to fuse it if the Isolater itself only lets 60A through?(I will be using 4Gauge) Since the only fuses I can find are like $20+ I don't want to be putting a bunch of fuses when they are kinda expensive and not necessary.

Also should I bother fusing(I do not want to unless it is absolutely necessary) fuse my Rear Battery to Amps? They have their own fuses so I don't think I really have to.

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[Cabin_Pressure 10+ year member]

Don't need an isolator for car audio. The are for something that is going to be used for extended periods of time without the charging system on. RV, boat, etc..........

 

[jake21 10+ year member]

definatelly fuse your rear batt to your amps if something makes contact with a ground or something you could cause an electrical fire if there is nothing to cut off the power. i dont think you want that

 

[TheJuggla1 10+ year member]

Don't need an isolator for car audio. The are for something that is going to be used for extended periods of time without the charging system on. RV, boat, etc..........

No think your wrong here, I need it to seperate my car stereo battery(High Capacity Bran New) From my starter Battery(Lower Capacity and oldish) so they don't **** each other up pretty much.

definatelly fuse your rear batt to your amps if something makes contact with a ground or something you could cause an electrical fire if there is nothing to cut off the power. i dont think you want that

Well there is to cut off the power correct? The amps have their own fuses which will blow if too much goes through breaking the circuit, and the amps don't let the power through unless they are turned on by the remote(Head Unit) right?

 

[Chrispy 10+ year member]

An isolator is not needed but yes you are correct that it will extend the life of your batteries and prevent parisitic draw. A fuse protects the wires. If you have a short in one with out a fuse the wire will burn and catch your car on fire. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

No think your wrong here, I need it to seperate my car stereo battery(High Capacity Bran New) From my starter Battery(Lower Capacity and oldish) so they don't **** each other up pretty much.

No he is not wrong. You can use one but you don't need one. You don't HAVE to separate your starter battery from the others. The audio shop mislead you.

 

[PIITB Wut Wut 10+ year member]

wrong wrong wrong info...

dont need no stickin isolator... if you plan on having your car on for extended periods of times get one of those kinetik wall plug in ac to dc converters

 

[BassMechkanic 10+ year member]

wow, what head ache

done correctly, yes an isolator is needed, but you dont have to use one, fuse your power wire run at front battery and at rear battery, just incase a short between you dont have a glowing red fire started - cars burn fast!

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

isolators are junk get a stinger 80 or 200 amp relay.

you need to seperate ur batterys if they are different. such as wet acid and agm(kinetik). reason being they have different resting voltages they will work against eachother and you will have 2 dead batterys!

you need to fuse at each battery on the wire that connects battery to battery. reason being that wire kit ground and blows the front fuse the wire is still getting power from the rear battery.

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

isolators are junk get a stinger 80 or 200 amp relay.
you need to seperate ur batterys if they are different. such as wet acid and agm(kinetik). reason being they have different resting voltages they will work against eachother and you will have 2 dead batterys!

you need to fuse at each battery on the wire that connects battery to battery. reason being that wire kit ground and blows the front fuse the wire is still getting power from the rear battery.

Finally, the correct answer.

 

[BassMechkanic 10+ year member]

agreed

 

[TheJuggla1 10+ year member]

you need to fuse at each battery on the wire that connects battery to battery. reason being that wire kit ground and blows the front fuse the wire is still getting power from the rear battery.

Late reply didn't have internet for a while, but I don't know why everyone thinks this. I don't want the batteries connected, the rear Kenetic is for the stereo and the stock replacement battery under the hood for the starter.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee268/Allan-2greasy/Isolator.jpg?t=1259696139

This is all I want these 2 fuses correct? Alternator is just stock and only puts out maybe 50-60 or so amps max. I am using 4 Gauge and that can take like 200 or so Amps before burning up correct? The isolator only lets current one way, so I don't see the need for any fuses there. I still don't understand why I need to fuse the amps when they have their own fuses, but I will since I am not the expert here, just add up all the fuses on my amps then put in the fuses closest to the total?(Ex. My mono amp has 4 25 Amp fuses, put in a 100A fuse from Bat to Amp Correct?)

And this is an isolator I have had just laying around, may as well use it since it will help my battery life.