Input on future selections.

[WhiteYota]

I was thinking of 2 runs of 1/0, so it fits under the carpet nice. Going to do 2 runs for dedicated ground also. I have planned on getting 2 50ft rolls of 1/0 (different colors of course).

I am trying to keep everything inside because the dirt roads around here ****(I have already found a few intersections I avoid because my poor van bottoms out). Small town living is wonderful.

Let me do some reading and figuring on if I can switch to 2/0 while staying in my wire budget, will reply back if I have anymore questions or concerns.

I dont use my paypal very much even though I have had it well before ebay bought it, but it is already all verified and everything.

After adding everything up, I am kinda at my max and if I go over anymore my wife is totally gonna freak out on me. So hopefully I didn't forget anything.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

50 feet is not enough for four 17 foot runs. Just use the vehicle chassis, its enough for 4000 watts.

 

[WhiteYota]

Would have been a total of 100ft for 4 runs. But I made a few changes. I was concerned with the quality of the body ground but I did some looking at mine and I will agree with ya that I will just use the chassis. I am also questioning whether I need that size of power or even the 2/0 also.

4300 watts / 13.8 volts would be around 315 amps, 60 amps less then what the 1/0 wire will carry. So if I just fuse the front to the back at 360A, it would be a little less then the wire. Then I would only need 1 roll of 50 ft for power. I also would not have all the connections to the ground on the back battery.

But then again I am not sure how the fuse between front and back batteries is calculated.

 

[WhiteYota]

After reading my last post, I feel that I need to clarify my question.

I have never used dual batteries so I am not sure on how to calculate the size of wire and fuse needed from front to back. Where I would be fusing the 1/0 wire to what it is rated at, would I be ok with the 360A or should I just run the 2/0 wire? If I did run the larger wire, do I fuse it to what it is rated for or just what is needed?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Id say youll be fine with a single run of 1/0 ofc since you are listening to music and not really competing and squeezing out tenths of db scores. You will not even get close to that level of current draw on music since music is dynamic. You only draw close to that amount if you listen to pure sine waves aka spl competitions. The wire has its amp ratings on their online specs so just match the rating on the wire. If the wire is rated at 350 then use a 350 fuse, 450 then 450 fuse. The fuse is to protect the wire from melting if there is a short dont worry about batteries and such. If the amp requires an external fuse then match it with whatever fuse the amp requires. 1/0 would be complete fine for your setup for music and daily purposes but if you might get into competitions and might go bigger with your setup in the future then do the 2/0. Decision will have to be based on what your upgrading tendencies are. This hobby is worse than crack lol.

 

[WhiteYota]

Ya I know about the expensive hobbies, I have a taste for expensive computer hardware.

I have never been to a competition, mostly because I live in BFE and would require a substantial amount of driving to go to one. I have wanted to someday get to that point but I fear that would only fuel another expensive hobby lol.

I am not trying to skimp on the wire but I just want to get a good product that is not overpriced, what other brands of wire and fusing products are out there that are of a good quality?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Sky high and knukonceptz are the best for the price, a lot of other brands will have 6 dollars a foot fot 1/0 ofc and its practically the same quality with a name brand slapped on to shootup the price tag. You can also use welding wire, its pure quality copper, less flexible but is pretty cheap price wise

Its not a matter of wheter you wanna skimp out or anything, there is no need to spend more money than what you need to achieve your goals. If its a simple daily system 1/0 should suffice.

 

[WhiteYota]

I think I am going to try to somewhat future proof it and go with the 2/0. Its only 40 more then the 1/0 so why not.

I was also thinking sometime down the road upgrading the components and adding another 125.4 with a 8 ch DSP.

Would there be anything that I need to change now that would need to be changed later (with the exception of the focals)?

My list for now is:

Pioneer SPH-DA120

Focal P165v15 - Front and Back

AA 125.4

AA 3800.1

Xcon 18" x2

XS Power D2400

XS XP3000

1/0 to 3800

4ga to 125.4

2/0 front to back battery

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Looks great man! Welcome to the downward spiral of self destruction //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[WhiteYota]

@Jeffdachef
Hello again
Have another question, can the amps be mounted to the sub box or will that cause problems.
After I got the 3800.1, it is a lot longer then I thought so I do not think I can make it fit under the rear seats like I wanted to (heater vents in the way)
Also I will mention that SSA called me and said the AA 125.4 was discontinued and a replacement would not be in till like june. FYI for anyone wanting to order it.
Instead I got a Incriminator Audio IA6.4 (135x4 @4)
Have everything except the xcons, hopefully next week, working on pictures for a build log.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Chris Davies']@Jeffdachef
Hello again
Have another question, can the amps be mounted to the sub box or will that cause problems.
After I got the 3800.1, it is a lot longer then I thought so I do not think I can make it fit under the rear seats like I wanted to (heater vents in the way)
Also I will mention that SSA called me and said the AA 125.4 was discontinued and a replacement would not be in till like june. FYI for anyone wanting to order it.
Instead I got a Incriminator Audio IA6.4 (135x4 @4)
Have everything except the xcons, hopefully next week, working on pictures for a build log.[/QUOTE]

you need rubber gaskets and a really braced box. A rule is to have the subs playing full blast, put your own head directly onto the box and if your you feel your amp can be subjected to the same level of vibration you head feels, then its fine. Of course if you get a massive headache then its not safe for the amp.