In need of a skilled box builder around the Orlando area

1. Find airspace the driver wants. Probably 2.5 to 3.5 cubes.

2. Find total area you have to work with. L x H x W

3. Decide how you want to mount driver.

4. Choose 2 dimensions that are the most limited, usally W and H

5. Take number from 1. ( airspace) and mulitiply by 1728. Then add driver displacement (around .25 x 1728) Divide that by (W - 1.5) and by (H - 1.5) account for wood thickness.

6. The last number is your length. Just add 1.5 for wood and there are you outside dimensions.

To build you need

Table saw - cut boards to size and angle

Router - cut speaker hole

Jig saw - cut speaker hole - router is better

Screws - to screw - Always pre-drill holes

Liquid nails - to form a tight bond between box sides

Silicone - seal box from inside.

Wood - 3/4"mdf or 3/4" baltic birch plywood. - its highly reccomeded to make the front baffle with the sub 2 layers thick.

Measure 3x before cutting. A leaky box is a bad box

Use the pythagoream theorm and sin, cos and tan to find angles

Lastly. This is the most important step. I see so many people mess this up.

Use Common Sense. If it doesnt seem right, then it's probably not

 
Looking for a skilled box builder who can build me a sealed SQ and low bass oriented box for my SSA GCON Subwoofer 15 inch subwoofer. I live in longwood, Florida.
SSA says 2.25 to 2.5 cubes after every displacement. List the max dimensions you want to give us and tell us where its going to be in the car and what direction you plan on firing it. When it comes to sealed boxes, the sub loading is more important than the box design since there's not much engineering or tuning when it comes to sealed boxes.

 
Well I'm going to do 3 cu feet. I'm going to mount the sub facing the lift gate. The box can be a maximum of 16 inches tall and 40 inches wide. I dont care about the depth as I have plenty of trunk space. The back needs to be angled at 70 degrees.

 
Well I'm going to do 3 cu feet. I'm going to mount the sub facing the lift gate. The box can be a maximum of 16 inches tall and 40 inches wide. I dont care about the depth as I have plenty of trunk space. The back needs to be angled at 70 degrees.
to get maximum sound quality, the sub would need to be pretty close to the trunk lid.

Here's some examples

Top row

first one is firing into the cabin and its completely sealed off from the trunk, this is called a trunk wall, most optimal of the 3

2nd one is the subs are right close to the rear of the trunk lid firing towards the trunk lid

3rd is mainly if you do custom fiberglass, angled towards the cabin, mainly for aesthetics, least perfromance out of the 3.

2nd row,

1st one is firing into the cabin but its not sealed off from the trunk, you'll lose output and sound horrible if you dont seal it off properly.

2nd one is the box is right be the rear seats way too far from the trunk lid, you run into severe cancellation and delay which causes weak, sloppy and messy bass that will sound slower or off timing with your music

3rd one is firing at eachother, this causes cancellation which leads to problems listed in the previous ^^^



 
Where did you find these pictures. Anyways, I plan on folding down my back drivers side seat in my Jeep and having my woofer face my me instead of the trunk. For me its too inconvenient to have the box right next to my trunk. I have much more space if it is flush to my seat.

 
Where did you find these pictures. Anyways, I plan on folding down my back drivers side seat in my Jeep and having my woofer face my me instead of the trunk. For me its too inconvenient to have the box right next to my trunk. I have much more space if it is flush to my seat.
Try to understand the picture again, If you dont have a FULL SEALED WALL, its not gonna turn out well just facing it towards you all the issues I listed happens Please go over what i explained again.... Or better yet, read this article

Aiming your subwoofer box

RIGHT

Box is fully sealed off from the trunk



WRONG

Box is not fully sealed off from the rear trunk. Still has gaps left for the sound to travel rearwards to the trunk, I'm betting you'll have even more empty areas than this.

maxresdefault.jpg


 
Try to understand the picture again, If you dont have a FULL SEALED WALL, its not gonna turn out well just facing it towards you all the issues I listed happens Please go over what i explained again.... Or better yet, read this article
Aiming your subwoofer box

RIGHT

Box is fully sealed off from the trunk



WRONG

Box is not fully sealed off from the rear trunk. Still has gaps left for the sound to travel rearwards to the trunk, I'm betting you'll have even more empty areas than this.

maxresdefault.jpg
Ive heard several boxes firing forward this way and even installed a couple. I can't hear a difference in sealing up the gaps around the enclosure. IMO as long as its 90% it doesnt make a difference.

Dammit was gonna reference this thread but the pics arent there anymore.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/252777-mazda-6-install-2-rf-t1-12s-no-56k.html

 
Ive heard several boxes firing forward this way and even installed a couple. I can't hear a difference in sealing up the gaps around the enclosure. IMO as long as its 90% it doesnt make a difference.
Dammit was gonna reference this thread but the pics arent there anymore.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/252777-mazda-6-install-2-rf-t1-12s-no-56k.html
I couldnt find any pictures of worse installs with a lot less than 90% coverage, basically this is common knowledge to anyone that does car auido to not have sound leaking to the back of the trunk when facing forward but the OP doesnt seem like he gets what we are talking about.

 
I couldnt find any pictures of worse installs with a lot less than 90% coverage, basically this is common knowledge to anyone that does car auido to not have sound leaking to the back of the trunk when facing forward but the OP doesnt seem like he gets what we are talking about.
Yea dont get me wrong my forward fire installs are sealed. I build the box wide and tall enough to do the job without additional panels. I just personally cant hear the difference when they arent 100% sealed. Flipping a 3 cube prefab dual 12 box forward would surely sound like shiit. There is a reason we point subs backwards.

 
So is having the sub face the trunk and being close to the liftgate my only good option in my Jeep? Sealing off the sub isn't feasible as my Jeep is open air to the trunk and I dont want create a wall

 
Thanks for the suggestion but i'm building the box myself, anyways i'm trying to figure out my placement options. So far it seems that my only optimal option is having the woofer close the trunk lid and facing the trunk lid

 
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