How do you plan to bandpass the Polk coax's? Just setting a HP filter will still let them play everything above 150hz or whatever you set it at.
Also what are you trying to gain by doing this set up? I'm a little confused as I can't believe the Polk mids have any midbass to speak of and they already play the mids/highs, so how will the 4" ers help?
Personally I'd shell out $100 for a decent set of comps and be done with it, but I am interested to see how it works out for you.
I saw it asked before, so the HU I am using is a Clarion DXZ475MP. I have it running with "Internal Amp Cancel" enabled. My roommate just ordered one for $72, after 20% off. That is the order I added the Infinity Reference 4"ers to.
As far as how the crossover setup will work, I am running an Audio Control 2XS w 80Hz crossover and 20Hz subsonic modules, ATM. That will not change. The >80Hz output for L&R will each get y-split to the two CA200 Profile's. They will each do either a lowpass for the Polks or a highpass for the Infinity's somewhere between 150Hz and 250Hz. Their internal x-overs max out at 250Hz. I did not get a 400SX for either the mid-bass or highs, even though it is more power for only $6 more, simply because their internal x-overs max out at 140Hz. With the 12dB/oct slopes they all use, that might not have been high enough.
So, it will be the Clarion "Front RCAs" -> AudioControl 2XS, and from there:
- A.C. 80Hz lowpass to Profile 400SX for the sub, w/no crossover enabled on the amp
- A.C. 80Hz highpass to one Profile CA200 with lowpass between 150 and 250Hz enabled for mid-bass duty (on the amp itself)
- a second AC 80Hz high pass to the other Profile CA200 with this amp's highpass set to the same frequency as the other CA200's lowpass.
EDIT: Oh, and as to why/my thinking. The stock position in the Mustang puts the front door speaker well into the door panel. It is also basically vertical, with a nod toward the idea of pointing at the listener, but no actual effect as far as that goes. This means the driver's side speaker is blasting at the drivers feet and the lower dash, but not really at the drivers ears. Just to make things more interesting, the passenger side door speaker is almost pointed right at the driver. Sound above a certain point, and well before 20KHz, is directional enough that this different effect for each side kills (as in kills-it-dead) imaging.
See what LaserRed38 did with the tweets in his component set? I am doing the same thing, in effect, except my "component set" is a 6x8 woofer for "down low" (at least 250Hz, maybe as low as 150Hz, is as high as they will get), with a 4" for the big human voice range above that, and passively handing off the tippy-top to a small tweeter (likely somewhere around 5KHz, but not sure on that). As long as I can get things to integrate, I should be able to image like crazy. Which would be a major improvement from where things stand, ATM.
As far as the Polks not having any real midbass output, I don't think so. Something like Cake's "Short skirt, long jacket" has a drum that does not go low, but is really prominent. I believe it is the Polks handling a lot of that. That song works really well in my car, even before the damping material (12sqft to start) has arrived, with the grille cloth, from Darvex.com - though that might be today. I would like to get a Real Time Analyzer on this system when I have it closer to where I ulitmately would like it to be. Then maybe an eq is in my future. Hopefully not, but I would like to KNOW one way or the other, thus a pass with an RTA is difinately in my future.
A reminder on an important part of this, from my perspective. This whole switch from Polk 6x8s as highs to Polk mid-bass and Infinity Reference highs, is going forward because I got the speakers for $24. If they ****/this doesn't work, I wouldn't really care. I am out some time, but that it it really, right? Well, once you take into account that I will have the kick panels wired with 65watts/ch, and the doors wired with another 65watts/ch available, (and could go straight to something more appropriate/proven to work well), it is a no harm = no foul situation. And that is only if it bombs because I just can't get it to work for some reason. I wouldn't have spent even the $24 if I thought that would happen, really. If it does go wrong, I will just grab some ~$200 components after a bonus rolls in, or after I pay off the car (6-months from now, maybe a bit more) - you know, something more proven to work well. Then I could bridge a CA200 amp into each front channel, to run @ a Profile rated 190watts/ch up there. lol
I don't see what I lose by giving it a shot. :shrug:
