I'm worried my Amp (1000/1) may be dead, but I'm looking for some advice here...

bikinpunk
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I posted earlier in the Subwoofer forum about this issue, which I believe has more to do with Electrical issues or my Amplifier.

Equipment: JL 12w7, JL 1000/1, custom 1.9 cube box tuned to 27hz. Gain on the 1000/1 is @ 50% (authorized dealer shop installed this way and equipment has never been changed to necessitate a change in gain).

Problem: Subwoofer cuts in and out throughout play on bass-heavy songs at higher volumes. On other non-bass heavy songs (with bass nonetheless) I get normal playback.

Knowns: My amp does not go into "protect" nor do I get any other notifications "low voltage", or "low ohms" on the amp. Everything's been playing fine for well over 2 months. I keep my h/u's subwoofer gain usually at 6/15 so I have headroom when I rarely crank it up. I have a common ground & power going to distribution blocks where I have the 1000/1 & a 4-channel for my components. The 4-channel plays just fine which to me rules out the main ground, power, & remote turn-on. The speaker wire is not exposed or grounding anywhere. My RCA's are all very secure, as well as other connections at the amplifier. The subwoofer's terminal post has secure connections on the outside, although the inside is soldered with tin and wrapped in electrical tape (in other words, it's POSSIBLE but not likely I could have a problem here). The wire to the subwoofer is connected securely as well. Basically everything that I know to check has been looked over numerous times.

The crazy thing is that I can literally tap on the amp when the subwoofer stops playing and it picks back up again. I can also leave the trunk open and playback is fine. However, shortly after I close the trunk the subwoofer will cut out. This is leading me to believe that there is something loose inside the amplifier itself. Almost like the pressure in the trunk is causing something in the amp to come loose.

I'm to the point where I'm about to call JL tomorrow (if they're open) and talk with someone in the tech department to see if I can do some troubleshooting with them. I had this installed by an authorized dealer about a year and 5 months ago and have original receipts. Doing so allowed me to get a 2 year warranty rather than a 90 day warranty, so if worse comes to worse I should be able to get this repaired or replaced on warranty.

Can anyone give me some direction here?

 
Did you do anything to your system lately? What guage are your wires?

Im just gonna toss this one out but check the power connections. (pos. neg. rem.) even though the other amp is fine. Check for burnt wires. And if you can, reground your mono block. Make sure you ground it to bare metal. Sand the paint down it you have to.

Either that or have warranty take care of you.

 
Yes, and I have a 1000/1 sitting in my back seat right now. It would flucate and randomly work and got worse and worse and then just stopped putting out power. Everything turn on, RCA signal goes through it.

 
I had a similar issue with my 500/1. I think the culprit may be the way the speaker wires are terminated.

Can you prevent it from happening by applying force to the speaker wire close to where it attaches to the amp? That was one of the symptoms of mine. I ended up stripping off more of the speaker wire and folding it over to make it thicker inside the connection point. Then I really tightened down the screw that held the wire in place.

That seemed to make it better.

 
I had a similar issue with my 500/1. I think the culprit may be the way the speaker wires are terminated.
Can you prevent it from happening by applying force to the speaker wire close to where it attaches to the amp? That was one of the symptoms of mine. I ended up stripping off more of the speaker wire and folding it over to make it thicker inside the connection point. Then I really tightened down the screw that held the wire in place.

That seemed to make it better.
I'm using 10 gauge wire and I can tug on them at the terminal point and they won't budge.

the727kid, or GrnEydDvl: Did either of you call JL about this issue, or did you just not bother?

 
I'm using 10 gauge wire and I can tug on them at the terminal point and they won't budge.
the727kid, or GrnEydDvl: Did either of you call JL about this issue, or did you just not bother?
No, I sold the car.

Mine would not pull free either but would still never cut off if I pushed on the cable.

It would usually be ok for a while after I tightened it but would slow work towards cutting off more and more. I would just re-seat the wire to make it stop. It only really seemed to stop when I stripped off a lot of wire.

 
I have the slash 500 and the same thing happened to me. exact same symptoms as listed in your first post. it got worse and worse, luckily i still had warranty on it and got a new one. The new amp has been installed for about 3 months now and i think that problem is occuring again. Its the connection at the amp where the speaker terminals are. + + - -. I find if i push one of the (-) wires in more when my bass cuts out i get the bass back. I hope this amp aint going dead like my last one. I soldered the wires too and im using 10ga wires.

Im thinking that im tightening the screws too much on the speaker wire that its actually cutting the wire or flattening real flat. Could that be the cause of the problem??

If you get a response from JL please post it. Im sure there are enough people with this simular problem.

 
It helps to know of 3 people who have had this issue. I'll make sure to tell that to whoever I speak with. I'm hoping their warranty dept is efficient & friendly.

 
Called JL and told them the issue. Let them know that I had looked at everything I could think of. When I told the guy about how tapping on the amp would cause it to power back up he said "okay" like he knew exactly what I was talking about. I was told to take it to a local authorized dealer (tweeter in my case) and they would take care of it. Guess I'll swing by there on my lunch break.

Edit: Went to tweeter. The manager said that usually, they send the defective product to JL, and JL sends a new one back. Does anyone have experience with this?

 
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bikinpunk

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