I'm still a little wary...

Its also a little CYA.... If you have an idiot customer who sends a clipped 400W signal to the sub, its less likely to damage it than if you rated the sub at 1000W RMS and had the same idiot send a clipped signal. It helps keep them from having to replace so many subs from customer abuse.

 
Buahahaha. You have a lot to learn sir. The advice given is good, listen to it. Read and understand resistance, ohms, and how wiring affects it, and you would already have your answers.

 
I think these companies rate their subs so low cause this way when it fails they don't have to warranty it out if you were giving it more than "rated" power. Then they come on here and show everyone "look at my companies subs! they are doing 150+ on 3k!" but then expect you to run rated or they are not liable.. Its a bunch of bullshit if you ask me. If your sub can run 1k daily you should rate it 1k!

 
I think these companies rate their subs so low cause this way when it fails they don't have to warranty it out if you were giving it more than "rated" power. Then they come on here and show everyone "look at my companies subs! they are doing 150+ on 3k!" but then expect you to run rated or they are not liable.. Its a bunch of bullshit if you ask me. If your sub can run 1k daily you should rate it 1k!
I'd have to agree with this 100%. Again nothing against Sundown as they are dominating for many reasons, one of those reasons being that their drivers are "underrated".

 
Well I got it all in there. Sounds darn good for an 8", I must say. Bout like I wanted. However, some people told me to leave any settings that up the bass, set to "Off". Well, I did leave the bass boost on the amp off. However, if I don't turn up the "Subwoofer" setting on my alpine CDA-9886 radio, then there isn't very much bass at all. You can just sorta barely hear it back there. I pretty much have to max out that setting to really be able to hear the bass well. The actual "Bass" setting on the radio, I left at zero. Anything wrong with this?

 
Please forgive my noob ignorance. But "full pre-out voltage" is what anyone would want to run right? Sounds like you'd have to have full preout voltage in order to even be able to use your sub. Amirite?

 
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