Ignite 2000 watt max

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Jimmy Creedog

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Hi all, I am in the market for a mono amplifier.  I saw a youtube video about the Ignite 4000 watt max Class D amp, and it seemed to be a pretty solid performer when you disregard the stupid advertising name. So I looked it up on amazon and it's right there for $83, cool.  Down at the bottom of the page, i saw an item called the Ignite 2000 watts max Class D for $63. It has zero reviews and I can't find it for sale or even any info about it anywhere else on the net.

I have a single 12" sub and it really doesn't need all the rms power of the "4000 watt" amp. Can you guys give me your opinion on whether the "2000 watt" unit would have a similar build quality to it's bigger brother?

 
Hi all, I am in the market for a mono amplifier.  I saw a youtube video about the Ignite 4000 watt max Class D amp, and it seemed to be a pretty solid performer when you disregard the stupid advertising name. So I looked it up on amazon and it's right there for $83, cool.  Down at the bottom of the page, i saw an item called the Ignite 2000 watts max Class D for $63. It has zero reviews and I can't find it for sale or even any info about it anywhere else on the net.

I have a single 12" sub and it really doesn't need all the rms power of the "4000 watt" amp. Can you guys give me your opinion on whether the "2000 watt" unit would have a similar build quality to it's bigger brother?
If nobody has tested it nobody has tested it.  With these flea market brands and low priced electronics the "half size" model isn't necessarily just the big board scaled down.  These companies buy whatever boards they can get the cheapest from China and have their name slapped on them.  The point being when you're buying out of the bargain bin you need to be very careful you get the precise make model and year/series as in the review if you want to expect the same performance of the reviewer.   Lastly if someone dyno'd this and it made power without blowing up it still may or may not be a reliable amp.  Most of the cheap amps are hit or miss at best with build quality, quality control, and reliability.

 
If nobody has tested it nobody has tested it.  With these flea market brands and low priced electronics the "half size" model isn't necessarily just the big board scaled down.  These companies buy whatever boards they can get the cheapest from China and have their name slapped on them.  The point being when you're buying out of the bargain bin you need to be very careful you get the precise make model and year/series as in the review if you want to expect the same performance of the reviewer.   Lastly if someone dyno'd this and it made power without blowing up it still may or may not be a reliable amp.  Most of the cheap amps are hit or miss at best with build quality, quality control, and reliability.
i thought that bigdwiz did dyno an ignite amp

 
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OP suggests that the review was of the double-size unit from that "brand"
well, here is the test of the $70 amp. Seems to put out decent power for how stupid cheap it is. I had a bass inferno amp that said it would do 2000 watts on a pair of entry level memphis subs for a while before i got my P3s and it did, well..... it did okay i guess. Nothing to writs home about, but it was some bass. I used the BI amp on the rockfords for a bit before i came to the understanding that the el cheapo's were lying about their power that badly. Traded it for a power acoutik fire and ice 2 channel which blew up and went on to the SoundQubed right when i joined this forum. I have learned a TON from yall since then and feel quite confident in a great many things since then. The world of car audio has changed SIGNIFICANTLY since i was the 12v manager of my local Ultimate Electronics back in the early 2000s. 




 
The point being does the """2000W""" model even do half of the one Derek reviewed?  Will it blow up out of the box?
simple math makes it seem that the ignite that claims 4000 watts would do double of the one that claims 2000 especially if we are going by what the history of 99% of all amp mfgs tells us

 
simple math makes it seem that the ignite that claims 4000 watts would do double of the one that claims 2000 especially if we are going by what the history of 99% of all amp mfgs tells us
And 30 years of seeing how these garbage brands operate tells me that they'll slap their name on anything and if someone hasn't tested the exact model in question you should expect he worst.   I can think of a few brands that had one or two decent amps ever while everything else in their lineup has been pure trash.  This is why I hate to support that sort of company.

 
Well, that didn't last long, I'm sending it back to amazon tomorrow.I wired it all up correctly, turn on the radio, nothing. Took a multimeter to all the wires, everything was powered and signaled correctly, I find that the fuses are broke, not burnt, broken. Okay, so I replace the fuses with the included spares, turn on the radio, nothing. It had burnt the new fuses instantly. Patience over.The main body may be aluminum, but the end pieces you have to screw through to mount the amp are brittle plastic. While screwing the amp down, it got a big spider crack down the base of the end cap.To sum up, I never got a signal out from it to my sub. Safe to say I learned a quick lesson about the build quality on sub $100 amps.

 
Well, that didn't last long, I'm sending it back to amazon tomorrow.I wired it all up correctly, turn on the radio, nothing. Took a multimeter to all the wires, everything was powered and signaled correctly, I find that the fuses are broke, not burnt, broken. Okay, so I replace the fuses with the included spares, turn on the radio, nothing. It had burnt the new fuses instantly. Patience over.The main body may be aluminum, but the end pieces you have to screw through to mount the amp are brittle plastic. While screwing the amp down, it got a big spider crack down the base of the end cap.To sum up, I never got a signal out from it to my sub. Safe to say I learned a quick lesson about the build quality on sub $100 amps.
Thats a shame man.Yet, Its cheap, and most want cheap rather than fair to a quality amp and spend the funds on something that will last more than 6 months on a new amplifier.Sometimes it makes sense to buy a good used old quality made amplifier verses bnew.Its pretty amazing to see that just about every old school amplifier I own 10-20 years old still perform very well. Though not class D or as efficient being A/B amplifiers and some A/older amplifiers, but still rock solid and built to last.

 
What 12" sub are you trying to place power on? Make and model# ? Surely there can be a nice budget amp some of us can recommend for you.What size is your power supply wiring and ground wiring?Type of vehicle,alternator amperage? Running a stock battery? What group size,CCA, and CA, and Reserve?

 
What 12" sub are you trying to place power on? Make and model# ? Surely there can be a nice budget amp some of us can recommend for you.What size is your power supply wiring and ground wiring?Type of vehicle,alternator amperage? Running a stock battery? What group size,CCA, and CA, and Reserve?
Well, since you asked, I drive a 2004 Civic coupe.  I've got a Walmart special Power Acoustik Gothic 124 Dual 4 ohm VC. Conservatively it can handle 800 watts rms. Wired in parallel, the impedance comes out to 3.2 ohms??????? Its in a sealed 1.5cu.ft. carpeted box. I've got 4 awg knu kolossus ofc power and ground wire with an inline 100 amp ANL fuse in the engine bay. Stock battery- 600 CCA, stock alternator- about 13.5V when running, no big 3 upgrades yet. Oh, and a Kenwood KDC X501 head unit.

Whats the build quality like on the Rockford Fosgate R500X1D?

 
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Well, that didn't last long, I'm sending it back to amazon tomorrow.I wired it all up correctly, turn on the radio, nothing. Took a multimeter to all the wires, everything was powered and signaled correctly, I find that the fuses are broke, not burnt, broken. Okay, so I replace the fuses with the included spares, turn on the radio, nothing. It had burnt the new fuses instantly. Patience over.The main body may be aluminum, but the end pieces you have to screw through to mount the amp are brittle plastic. While screwing the amp down, it got a big spider crack down the base of the end cap.To sum up, I never got a signal out from it to my sub. Safe to say I learned a quick lesson about the build quality on sub $100 amps.
sorry, but yeah. too good to be true is usually just that :(

 
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Jimmy Creedog

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