I Think I Need a High Output Alternator...

[bigfluke 773]

Get your money back from that Optima battery. Buy an Deka AGM.
For alternator talk to Singer,DC alternators, or Mechman alternators.

Duracell® AGM Deep Cycle Marine and RV Battery - Group Size 34M - Sam's Club

Sears.com

What are these comparable to as far as the expensive brands?

 

[Timewarp]

Factory Stock replacement alt. puts out 63 Amp This unit has an external voltage regulator. Just so you know

 

[gstokes]

I have a 1972 Buick Electra 225 pushing 3600 watts of amplified power using 2 batteries. I just got my system installed a week or so ago and only drove it a few days before it stopped turning over. Long story short, I am pretty sure the 40+ year old stock alternator isn't cutting it anymore (when I try to start the car tries to turn over but the GEN light comes out, all power still works for now though.
So I need a good high output alternator, but I am not sure which one I should get and I don't want to spend $350 for something I don't really need. What output do I need and which brands would you all recommend? Should I upgrade my practically new Duralast Gold battery to an Optima?

Your alternator is only rated for 63 amps, you need to upgrade it..

 

[SlaughterX]

Ok so I def need a HO alt, but how much power do I really need is the question? There is only a $50 price difference between a the 150 and 240 amp models (Mechman), should I go ahead and pay the extra $50 for the extra 90 amps?

 

[akillj 10+ year member]

You're closer to like 1.5kw of real power. No way in hell you're actually pushing 3.6kw. You should be fine with the 150A model. 150*14.4=2160w. This doesn't mean you can run up to 2k, because no amplifier is 100% efficient, but it should be just fine. Personally i'd get the bigger one, just cause I know i'd be safe for possible future upgrades.

EDIT: To OP and anyone else reading: More batteries, which will stabilize your voltage, Isn't necessarily a replacement for another / bigger alternator. (Unless you like to listen to music with the car off) You can wang on the batteries all you want, but they still need to be recharged. Multiple batts + multiple kilowats of power = wreak hell on a stock alt.

 

[SlaughterX]

Well I went ahead and ordered the $350 Mechman alt from Sonic since the cheaper one would take an extra month to get here. I might give the Optima battery a try for a little while to see if it makes any difference but I have 90 days to return it to Autozone.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Do the big 3 or it won't matter. You should have done that and the battery first. Set the gains right and it would have been fine. What these guys didn't know was your car has minimal electronics to run. It's not like a new car that has a ton on computers to power all the time.

 

[akillj 10+ year member]

Do the big 3 or it won't matter. You should have done that and the battery first. Set the gains right and it would have been fine. What these guys didn't know was your car has minimal electronics to run. It's not like a new car that has a ton on computers to power all the time.

Even if he did all that, and even if his alternator was charging at 14.4, and even if ALL he was running was the monoblock (Not counting for efficiency of the amp, or the cars electronics - headlights / ac / ect) that alt could only supply 63a*14.4v=907w. Less than half of what the amp puts out, again, not even accounting for efficiency, or other factors of the vehicle. But yes I agree, he HAS to do the big 3 now, otherwise a new alt won't do anything.

 

[csu87 10+ year member]

car not starting is not an alternator issue fyi

that is a battery issue if you are sure it is an electrical issue.

alternator only works when the car is running and has no bearing on the cranking amps needed to start the car.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Even if he did all that, and even if his alternator was charging at 14.4, and even if ALL he was running was the monoblock (Not counting for efficiency of the amp, or the cars electronics - headlights / ac / ect) that alt could only supply 63a*14.4v=907w. Less than half of what the amp puts out, again, not even accounting for efficiency, or other factors of the vehicle. But yes I agree, he HAS to do the big 3 now, otherwise a new alt won't do anything.

He is not going to be running a constant sine wave. How do you think people get by with 100 amp alternators on new cars running 1500 watts?

 

[akillj 10+ year member]

He is not going to be running a constant sine wave. How do you think people get by with 100 amp alternators on new cars running 1500 watts?

That is true. However, it's still better to have more alt than you need. That way your voltage will be solid.

 

[SlaughterX]

Got the alt today, gonna drop it off at the mechanic to install tomorrow before work (because I know jack **** about anything involving cars other than how to drive them, automatics only //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. My subs seem to be busted but I am hoping it's just because my secondary battery is dead or something, as I really don't want to have to pay another $500 to upgrade my subs right now. Guess I'll see how it works on Friday, fingers crossed...

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Your mechanic know you will need 1/0 power wire with that new HO alt? Plus a 250-300 amp fuse? Should upgrade your grounds under the hood with 1/0 as well.

 

[SlaughterX]

This is the wiring kit I got to connect my amps. So I still need to replace the wire going from the alternator to the battery w/ 0 guage, right? Also do I need another fuse or would the one from that kit that's already installed suffice? I know little about car audio install so pardon my ignorance. Should I keep my Optima Yellow top (I got a decent deal on it, about $170 after the 20% + $10 off coupon from Autozone. The battery in the truck is just a Duralast Gold battery from an old Thunderbird my Aunt was going to give me but I decided not to take (the battery is new).

 

[big scott]

give link to your wiring kit ...