I just did something super noooob help

NYR36
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I ran 2 sets of wires under the carpet to each door. One for tweeter and one for mid(crossover will be in trunk). I didn't label each wire before I did this. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

Should I just hook up both wires to the cross over, then hook them up to the mid to see what freq is playing in each wire? Will hooking up the woofer to the tweeters freq cause anything bad to happen to the woofer?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

I've read the tweeter will kick the bucket if you hook up the woofer freqs to it.

thanks

 
Since you have two sets of wires, I would first at a low volume take one set of wire and connect it to the tweeter output on the crossover, then you go to the front and see what speaker is playing.

Also, you don't want to hook up the tweeter to the midrange output on the crossover, this may cause you tweeter to push to much excursion and cause the tweeter to fail. Remember, the tweeter cannot take the lower frequency therefore it will hurt it, but the midrange can take high frequencies, it will just sound muddy but not damaging.

 
use a tone genorator or a 9 volt batt to pop them so you know witch is the tweet and witch is the woofer.
Pardon my extreme noooobness, but this wont damage the speakers at all will it? the 9 batt volt trick

 
nope a tone genorator consists of a 9 volt batt. just pop it with a 9 volt really quick.. the woofer will have a deeper popping sound.. just dont hold the 9 volt on the wire's for a long amount of time... just pop it really quick!!

 
If u have a DMM u can always see which wire trips the open/close circuit beep. Even most cheap DMMs should have this. (The one i got for $25 at radio shack did)
id use a DMM if i was looking for a blow speaker " open curcuit." but not for finding witch is tweeter or woofer...

 
for future reference, just put a piece of black electrical tape on the wire for the tweet, or run and connect one wire at a time.

also for rca's write down which color corresponds to what. for example, I have a 4-channel rca run for my four channel amp and i wrote that red/blk was for the front speakers and blue/white was for rear speakers. i wrote it on a piece of wood in my garage so i remembered.

labeling really helps if your install will take more than one day

 
I did the same thing, so I tried a set of wires to the tweeter output and both times I got it correct. It's the safest way to do it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Using a battery to move the speaker is the same as hooking it up to an amp except its DC not AC. Besides its only 9 volts. The amp probably does something like 10-20 when playing. Just get someone to look at the woofer when you test to see if its moving or the tweeter.

And to use the DMM you would want to connect one end to the wire at the speaker and one end to the wire at the amp, but that would require really long test leads.

 
for future reference, just put a piece of black electrical tape on the wire for the tweet, or run and connect one wire at a time.
also for rca's write down which color corresponds to what. for example, I have a 4-channel rca run for my four channel amp and i wrote that red/blk was for the front speakers and blue/white was for rear speakers. i wrote it on a piece of wood in my garage so i remembered.

labeling really helps if your install will take more than one day
I did this when I ran my RCAs(using tape). I wasn't thinking when I ran the wire. Just wanted to get it over with.

 
I guess my method sucks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
I just don't like the thought of hooking up lower freqs to the tweeter or I would do what you suggested.

 
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