i blew something...

best place to go is sears if shopping local as they usually carry the most at one time.
k. ive been looking at several different websites and all of the multimeters have different ranges...the larger the range, the more expensive. so what range do i need. at radioshack, a 22-range multimeter is 30$ but a 46-range is 70$. they also have a 15-range which is only 20$.

 
Are the woofers sharing a box? That would explain why one looks like it's "playing", but really it is just feedback from the other woofer working. Sounds to me like one of the rcas is loose at the amp or behind the deck.
So not only is 1 sub not actually getting a signal, but the other woofer is using the entire box as it's volume now and will likely blow as a result.... This is all just a guess without knowing more.
it is a mono block amp guys 1 half of the rcas not working will make no dif you actually only need 1 they do 2 on some decks on the sub out as a simpler way to connect it. the amp sums any signal from either rca plug ( right or left ) into a mono signal inside the amp.

don't believe me? try it no difference at all.

 
it is a mono block amp guys 1 half of the rcas not working will make no dif you actually only need 1 they do 2 on some decks on the sub out as a simpler way to connect it. the amp sums any signal from either rca plug ( right or left ) into a mono signal inside the amp.don't believe me? try it no difference at all.
do you know the fix for the problem im having then?

 
do you know the fix for the problem im having then?
As said above, check the resistance, at the speaker level input, on each sub.

Remove the speaker wires from the amp. Use a multi-tester to check the resistance for each sub by connecting the multi-tester leads to the subwoofer wires. Report back the ohms it states in the forums, and we can diagnose it quickly. If you can, push gently on the cone of the woofer (don't push the dust cap in the center), directly down, gently, and see if the read changes at all.

Any crappy multi-tester that can do resistance should be fine for this test. You don't need a $300 fluke. Just a basic multi-tester from any auto-parts, walmart, radioshack, amazon, etc.., that tests resistance (and they all should), will be fine. $15 should cover it.

 
As said above, check the resistance, at the speaker level input, on each sub.
Remove the speaker wires from the amp. Use a multi-tester to check the resistance for each sub by connecting the multi-tester leads to the subwoofer wires. Report back the ohms it states in the forums, and we can diagnose it quickly. If you can, push gently on the cone of the woofer (don't push the dust cap in the center), directly down, gently, and see if the read changes at all.

Any crappy multi-tester that can do resistance should be fine for this test. You don't need a $300 fluke. Just a basic multi-tester from any auto-parts, walmart, radioshack, amazon, etc.., that tests resistance (and they all should), will be fine. $15 should cover it.
alright thanks blade and thanks to everyone else that contributed. ill go get one today and report back the results in an hour or 2.

 
ok...i tested the resistance and its reading 0 ohms. so i guess this tells me that the subwoofer is fine?
Is that the resistance on each sub, on it's own?

0 ohms is a bad sign.... That may mean that it's shorted out.

We need to be sure you did the test correctly, though. Do you use Xfire? I'm bladebarrier on xfire if you want a hand double checking your test, I'll be around for about two hours tonight.

If it's truly a 0 ohm read, and done correctly, your voicecoil is fried. If you're not sure you did the test correctly, then it's an incorrect read, and you need more instruction on how to check it.

 
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