HU dims, Amp light Dims, bass cuts off for 1 sec.

31337hxr
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Hey guys, I recently installed a JBL Bp600.1 amplifier to power two infinity kappa perfects 12.1 subs. Before they were powered by a sony xm-1502 760 watt amp.

When I crank the music, like REALLY high, my head unit starts dimming everytime the sub hits a loud beat. The orange square light on the amplifier dims too! And after that, the light on the amplifier goes from GREEN To RED for 2 seconds and it doesn't hit a beat in a music and then it goes back to GREEN light again and continues to hit the next, next beat.

However, the amp itself doesn't shut down. So there's no overcurrent or shortage. It continue to hit beats, but skips some loud beats and goes to RED light and then goes back to GREEN light again and keeps hitting the next.

Does this mean my car is running out of power? Is this where the Capacitor is needed?

thanks!

 
It means your alt isn't putting out enough juice. The light on your amp is probably and under current light. You can try a cap or ten. But if it's as bad as you say it may not help that much. Your best bet is probably to get your alt rewound. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
get a new alternator. i had to get a new one and it fixed my problem. i have a 140 amp alt. a cap wont help in this situation because a cap is just for when there is a sudden power draw from the amp. the cap will quickly run out of juice. u know u have to charge caps right.

 
You know I didn't think of that. It could be part of the problem. An in box impedence spike coud cause the amp to shut down. But it still sounds like its starving for power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
It couldn't hurt to try it. It's definately the cheapest option. It wouldn't cost a thing except a couple of minutes. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Hey guys SLOW DOWN! Buy this--- buy that--- We haven't diagnosed the problem yet!

First get a mutimeter an start checking connections with it. Check idle voltage at the AMP, battery terminals and battery posts. Check 2000-2500 RPM charge voltage. Let us know when you done this and what the numbers are.

 
why not check the impedence of the drivers first? wire the subs in series..funny as it may sound the system im was reffering to did almost the same thing..since i can't see what happens over the net try it....as it may solve the issue within 5 minutes lol if im wrong then it prolly is electrical

 
too late guys...i already bought a PowerAmper Xpower 1 farad digital capacitor and I'm gonna wire it up next week and let you guys know how it goes.

it seems like this cap is the solution.

 
voltage isnt the issue if its impedence lol same if its your alt....the cap would be about a 20 minute install (if that) even if it "keeps" the amp goin the problem isnt fixxed current is what is needed...when you turn it down does it work fine? when up higher does it cut off? speakers are reactive (like an electric motor) so at higher volumes it can dip into a none safe impedence.............

 
Originally posted by audiolife voltage isnt the issue if its impedence
OK so I agree to checking to see if the impedence is correct
lol same if its your alt
How can you diagnose that the ALT is the problem without checking voltage??
.... speakers are reactive (like an electric motor) so at higher volumes it can dip into a none safe impedence
A speakers impedence only goes up not down at higher FREQ same with a motor
 
volume can play a roll via clipping and other stuff ...... there is a difference .......... and if its so bad things are "shuttin" down a cap wont help it in the least infact will add load.... =) shouldnt read into things that are not there..=) and if your not "car smart" i wouldnt check the alt myself as there are other factors playing into this... and also this already happened to my net friend already..stumped the experts so he talked to jbl=) but if it a problem with the car why not take it to a qualified mechanic? everything from a bad battery to impedence could be the culprit and anything inbetween..

 
That why i'm saying there needs to be a METHOD to the CHECKING. I'm saying start with impedence then move to voltage. looking for idle voltage and charge voltage to see if there may be resistance in a bad connection causing a voltage drop. Then looking to see if the ALT is charging. cause if the radio is diming that much and the AMP is stalling then i would look into the voltage related issues.

 
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