How would I best wire up 2x 100-300W subs + 1x 400W sub to a 1000W mono amp?

[gstokes]

the "ideal" load impedance is really subjective and depends on the setup, i will recant my earlier statement and say the "ideal" load impedance can be whatever you want it to be, if you got a pair of 8 ohm speakers in parallel then i guess 4 ohms would be "ideal" but if we had a pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel then i guess 2 ohm wiuld be the "ideal" load impedance etc etc etc

 

[csu87 10+ year member]

I thought that was the norm, if i'm incorrect then please elaborate..a head unit is rated at 4 ohm and most speakers are rated at 4 ohm so why would 4 ohm not be the ideal load impedance ?

Your ideal impedance depends more on the amp and the speaker configuration. 1000watts at 4ohm is basically the same as 1000watts at 1ohm. One has more current, one has more voltage

1. I understand why the 12" sub would have difficulties playing higher frequencies because of it having to work against more inertia and air resistance but, I can't see any mechanical reason why the 6" can't play lower frequencies. If it can move faster, surely it can just as easily move slower, like how tiny headphone drivers can still produce deep bass. Would you care to explain?
2. I'm in the mathless biology side of science and I don't very much like to go into math but, what if I took the 2 Pyles and ran both of them at 1 ohm sub-total and a dual "pretend" 2ohm MB Quart also at 1ohm in series for a 2ohm total?

((PyleA=2)+Parallel+(PyleB=2)=1)+series+(MBQ=1) = 2ohm, so that 1000W = 500W + 500W = 500W + (250W + 250W)

The MBQ would be slightly over powered with the Pyle's slightly under powered. Would something like that work?

4. I'm not trying to argue that it would work. You and a few others, most likely much more knowledgeable than me at this, are saying it can't work. I would like to fully understand why that is. My friends and some others have told me my writing gives the impression that it's cold and slightly aggressive since its very short and down to the point. I can't help it, please take no offense.

"((PyleA=2)+Parallel+(PyleB=2)=1)+series+(MBQ=1) = 2ohm, so that 1000W = 500W + 500W = 500W + (250W + 250W)"

Again, not how this works. Lets say both the 6"ers and the 12 have the same coil properties and all had the same impedance rise; they will all get the same amount of power. Now since they are not all the same, one of them is going to get most the power, and the others will split the rest. No matter how many times you try to write out the formula, it isnt going to work the way you think it will.

Sorry if this is coming off wrong, but this is a very basic theory and general rule of thumb that i have a hard time bringing down to the level you are wanting.

 

[gstokes]

Right, but with my theoretical set up all frequencies would be already separately covered only that the "100 - 1kHz" range sub be pushed lower into the 35-250Hz range. 250-1kHz would still be covered by other speakers. Would pushing the "100 - 1kHz" sub lower cause it to sound noticeably bad, as oppose to still being able to play the frequencies decently but just quieter?

Asking a driver to reproduce frequencies it was not designed for will not only sound bad but when dealing with low frequency spectral energy there is great chance the speaker will be damaged by asking it to play lower then it was designed for, it is not as critical when asking a low frequency driver to play a higher frequency because there is less energy in the higher frequencies but it will still sound like ****

 

[PandaAudio]

Your ideal impedance depends more on the amp and the speaker configuration. 1000watts at 4ohm is basically the same as 1000watts at 1ohm. One has more current, one has more voltage


"((PyleA=2)+Parallel+(PyleB=2)=1)+series+(MBQ=1) = 2ohm, so that 1000W = 500W + 500W = 500W + (250W + 250W)"

Again, not how this works. Lets say both the 6"ers and the 12 have the same coil properties and all had the same impedance rise; they will all get the same amount of power. Now since they are not all the same, one of them is going to get most the power, and the others will split the rest. No matter how many times you try to write out the formula, it isnt going to work the way you think it will.

Sorry if this is coming off wrong, but this is a very basic theory and general rule of thumb that i have a hard time bringing down to the level you are wanting.

Your reply implies that the resistance in ohms marked out on the subwoofer specs is not constant. Is this true?

 

[gstokes]

Your ideal impedance depends more on the amp and the speaker configuration. 1000watts at 4ohm is basically the same as 1000watts at 1ohm. One has more current, one has more voltage

agreed, "ideal" is a very subjective term..

 

[csu87 10+ year member]

Your reply implies that the resistance in ohms marked out on the subwoofer specs is not constant. Is this true?

correct. the impedance rises as power is sent through the coil depending on the thermal properties of the coil materials.

 

[PandaAudio]

Asking a driver to reproduce frequencies it was not designed for will not only sound bad but when dealing with low frequency spectral energy there is great chance the speaker will be damaged by asking it to play lower then it was designed for, it is not as critical when asking a low frequency driver to play a higher frequency because there is less energy in the higher frequencies but it will still sound like ****

Higher frequencies have less energy? Shouldn't it have more? Am I missing some kind of variable here?

 

[gstokes]

Your reply implies that the resistance in ohms marked out on the subwoofer specs is not constant. Is this true?

it's not, the impedance changes over the entire frequency range of the driver, it is lowest where the driver was intended to play at and rises in either direction as you move away from the.. for lack of a better word "sweet spot"

 

[bumpasauras 10+ year member]

Wire the sub up to 2 ohm ... Throw the pyles in the yard sale pyle and bam your done ..

Think of it like this (nevermind usable sound reproduction) why would you divide the power between the the sub and a pair of mids? The sub running in 2 ohm by it's self will be much louder than the 3 "speakers" sharing the same wattage..

Kinda like having a flood light and 2 flash lights no matter what the 1 flood light properly powered will "out shine" the 3 lights sharing a givin amount of power.

 

[PandaAudio]

correct. the impedance rises as power is sent through the coil depending on the thermal properties of the coil materials.

Then would it also be correct that my MRX-M100 1000W@2ohm amp is a bit under powered for my Type-R 12" 1000W sub? Since as the impedance rises or drops from 2 ohms, the amp can produce less power? 600@4, 500@1

 

[PandaAudio]

Wire the sub up to 2 ohm ... Throw the pyles in the yard sale pyle and bam your done ..
Think of it like this (nevermind usable sound reproduction) why would you divide the power between the the sub and a pair of mids? The sub running in 2 ohm by it's self will be much louder than the 3 "speakers" sharing the same wattage..

Kinda like having a flood light and 2 flash lights no matter what the 1 flood light properly powered will "out shine" the 3 lights sharing a givin amount of power.

A 10,000 lumen stable flood light with sufficient power can only safely produce 10,000 lumens of light.

A 10,000 lumen stable flood light and 2* 500 lumen flashlights with sufficient power can safely produce 11,000 lumens of light.

11,000 lumen is brighter than 10,000 lumen.

 

[gstokes]

Higher frequencies have less energy? Shouldn't it have more? Am I missing some kind of variable here?

spectral energy..

 

[gstokes]

Then would it also be correct that my MRX-M100 1000W@2ohm amp is a bit under powered for my Type-R 12" 1000W sub? Since as the impedance rises or drops from 2 ohms, the amp can produce less power? 600@4, 500@1

you're overcomplicating the issue and giving me a headache, good luck with your build..

 

[PandaAudio]

you're overcomplicating the issue and giving me a headache, good luck with your build..

Spectral energy is just the energy within a specific spectrum or range of frequencies, which should still be higher at higher frequencies if I understood the definition correctly. I searched it up and I think I know where you're getting at. Human hearing is less sensitive to bass frequencies needing higher amplitude, thus requiring more energy to get the same perceived volume.

Yeah, I think this is getting a little too complicated. I'm still a bit curious to whether or not my amp is slightly underpowered though, if csu87 could reply to that.

Thank you very much for your help in answering some of my questions. This thread definitely helped clear some things up for me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/graduate.gif.d982460be9f153bb54e5d4cb744f6ae8.gif

 

[csu87 10+ year member]

You are severely over thinking it. Go clamp test your amp and see what the actual power you are sending to your sub is. Google that.