How would I best wire up 2x 100-300W subs + 1x 400W sub to a 1000W mono amp?

Subs:

1x 12" MB Quart Onyx Dual 4ohm (ONX304) = 400W RMS

2x 6" Pyle PLPW6D Dual 4ohm = 300W RMS (Though suspiciously, on the spec sheet it says 100W)

Amp:

Alpine MRX-M100 = 600W RMS @ 4ohm, 1000W RMS @ 2ohm, 500W RMS @ 1ohm

Yes, I understand those subs are far inferior and completely outclassed by the amp, but that's sort of the point. No need to get into it.

How would I best wire them up to the amp so that each sub receives its proportionate amount of power and also allows the amp to run closest to its ideal 2ohms? Do I need to make any changes to the amount of subs?, I can take away or add an extra Pyle sub if needed. Is it even a decently good idea to run 2 different types of subs from a single mono amp?

Eventual damage to the subs is acceptable but, definitely not preferred. Eventual damage to the amp is unacceptable.

Wiring 2 different types of subs is beyond me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
you cannot tune the 6" subs and the 12" subs on the same amplifier. you will be tuning for either the 6" subs or the 12" subs. each will play the respective tones differently. good luck with tuning. you need an amp for the 12" sub and one for the 2-6" subs

 
you cannot tune the 6" subs and the 12" subs on the same amplifier. you will be tuning for either the 6" subs or the 12" subs. each will play the respective tones differently. good luck with tuning. you need an amp for the 12" sub and one for the 2-6" subs
Could you elaborate on that? What exactly do you mean by tuning the subs with the amp?

As far as I know there are only 4 knobs to change the output on the amp, the bass boost, lp filter, subsonic, and gain. Those 4 knobs will be "tuned" to an Alpine Type-R 12" which will be my main driver. The bass boost and subsonic will not hurt anything as far as I am aware. The gain will be set to my 1000W sub and 400W+ (2*300W)=1000W so they should be fairly similar. The lp filter will be 33% too high for the MB Quart which should cause no damage on the amp yet nothing atrocious to the sub either.

I was thinking if there was a problem, it would lie in the category of not being able to allocate precisely 400W to one and 300W to the other two.

 
1. you are unable to set the proper frequencies that each sub/speaker is going to be able to play. causing it to sound like ****

2. you are unable to give one speaker 400w and two speakers 300w. causing it to sound like **** and blowing the subs most likely

3. i really hope you do not have the 3 different speakers in the same box. that would cause a lot of cancellation and would sound like ****.

4. short answer is no dont do it or even try to do it or ask anymore questions on why you cant do it. just cant do it no matter what you try to do.

 
1. you are unable to set the proper frequencies that each sub/speaker is going to be able to play. causing it to sound like ****
2. you are unable to give one speaker 400w and two speakers 300w. causing it to sound like **** and blowing the subs most likely

3. i really hope you do not have the 3 different speakers in the same box. that would cause a lot of cancellation and would sound like ****.

4. short answer is no dont do it or even try to do it or ask anymore questions on why you cant do it. just cant do it no matter what you try to do.
All 3 are sub drivers

1. Since they are all subs, shouldn't their frequencies be similar or at least similar enough?

2. If it is not possible so that 1000W -> 1*400W + 2*300W, what if I made it so that 1000W -> 3*300W + 100W excess?

3. The MB Quart is in its own ported box. The 2 Pyle's are both in a single sealed box but, with a divider. All 3 have their own air space.

4. As someone taking a major in science, I don't particularly like the answer "just can't do it". Rather if something is not possible, I'd like adequate reasoning as to why it isn't possible which holds up against other reasoning that may suggest it to be possible.

 
1. a 12" and a 6" will not play the same frequencies despite what you think. the 12 will play much lower and the 6 should play much higher.

2. read up on electrical theory and you will see that isnt true. read up on box rise, thermal properties of different coil materials... the power will follow the path of least resistance. and with all 3 in different enclosures, and 2 different types of speakers, one of them is going to get most the power, and the other 2 will not.

3. well atleast you got one thing right

4. if you dont want to take our advice and want to just keep going on and on and on... just go wire them all in parallel and do whatever you want. Let us know how it works out for you.

and as someone with several degrees including electrical engineering now, just cant do it

 
Subs:1x 12" MB Quart Onyx Dual 4ohm (ONX304) = 400W RMS

2x 6" Pyle PLPW6D Dual 4ohm = 300W RMS (Though suspiciously, on the spec sheet it says 100W)

How would I best wire them up ..(
the best way to wire them for 2 ohm would first involve throwing the pyles under a passing truck then wire the 4 ohm DVC sub in parallel.

The ideal load impedance is 4 ohm for car audio and 8 ohm for home stereo..

 
the best way to wire them for 2 ohm would first involve throwing the pyles under a passing truck then wire the 4 ohm DVC sub in parallel. The ideal load impedance is 4 ohm for car audio and 8 ohm for home stereo..
Curious where you came up with that

 
to answer your question why you should not mix speakers on a single channel is similar to why you don't cross over a midrange driver into the tweeters frequency range, let's say the highpass filter is set at 3kHz and we adjust the top end of the bandpass at 3.5kHz, now we've got both the tweeter and the midrange driver trying to reproduce the same frequency from 3kHz to 3.5kHz, it will sound like **** so that's why we would set the the highpass at 3kHz then set the top end of the bandpass at 3kHz that way they don't crossover into each others territory. the system design you have would include 1 sub with a frequency range of 35 - 250Hz and 2 subs with a guesstimated 100 - 1kHz frequency range on the same channel, hope this helps you understand why it would sound like ****

 
1. a 12" and a 6" will not play the same frequencies despite what you think. the 12 will play much lower and the 6 should play much higher.
2. read up on electrical theory and you will see that isnt true. read up on box rise, thermal properties of different coil materials... the power will follow the path of least resistance. and with all 3 in different enclosures, and 2 different types of speakers, one of them is going to get most the power, and the other 2 will not.

3. well atleast you got one thing right

4. if you dont want to take our advice and want to just keep going on and on and on... just go wire them all in parallel and do whatever you want. Let us know how it works out for you.

and as someone with several degrees including electrical engineering now, just cant do it
1. I understand why the 12" sub would have difficulties playing higher frequencies because of it having to work against more inertia and air resistance but, I can't see any mechanical reason why the 6" can't play lower frequencies. If it can move faster, surely it can just as easily move slower, like how tiny headphone drivers can still produce deep bass. Would you care to explain?

2. I'm in the mathless biology side of science and I don't very much like to go into math but, what if I took the 2 Pyles and ran both of them at 1 ohm sub-total and a dual "pretend" 2ohm MB Quart also at 1ohm in series for a 2ohm total?

((PyleA=2)+Parallel+(PyleB=2)=1)+series+(MBQ=1) = 2ohm, so that 1000W = 500W + 500W = 500W + (250W + 250W)

The MBQ would be slightly over powered with the Pyle's slightly under powered. Would something like that work?

4. I'm not trying to argue that it would work. You and a few others, most likely much more knowledgeable than me at this, are saying it can't work. I would like to fully understand why that is. My friends and some others have told me my writing gives the impression that it's cold and slightly aggressive since its very short and down to the point. I can't help it, please take no offense.

 
to answer your question why you should not mix speakers on a single channel is similar to why you don't cross over a midrange driver into the tweeters frequency range, let's say the highpass filter is set at 3kHz and we adjust the top end of the bandpass at 3.5kHz, now we've got both the tweeter and the midrange driver trying to reproduce the same frequency from 3kHz to 3.5kHz, it will sound like **** so that's why we would set the the highpass at 3kHz then set the top end of the bandpass at 3kHz that way they don't crossover into each others territory. the system design you have would include 1 sub with a frequency range of 35 - 250Hz and 2 subs with a guesstimated 100 - 1kHz frequency range on the same channel, hope this helps you understand why it would sound like ****
Right, but with my theoretical set up all frequencies would be already separately covered only that the "100 - 1kHz" range sub be pushed lower into the 35-250Hz range. 250-1kHz would still be covered by other speakers. Would pushing the "100 - 1kHz" sub lower cause it to sound noticeably bad, as oppose to still being able to play the frequencies decently but just quieter?

 
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