How to cover door hole

[The Camry]

So everyones door holes i see around here are small ones here and there. Practically my entire door is a freaking hole. Is there a proper way to go about covering this with such a big hole. Should i do smaller sections or do some sheetmetal or....??

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[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

if you can, do sheet metal with deadener. if not use some back strap to bridge a couple section so the deadener has something to grab on to.

 

[Umbra]

What fasfocus00 suggested.

I did this in the summer. I went to Lowes and bought a sheet of aluminum. I took some paper grocery bags (cardboard, construction paper, or anything else like that should work too) and a black marker and took them to the door to sketch out stencils. You'll want them to be larger than the hole so you can attach it around the edges.

Then I used those stencils and the marker to transfer the shapes to the aluminum. You can use them twice, most likely, just flip them for the opposite door. I used tin snips to cut the shapes, if you have something beefier, use it. I'd can't recommend thick gloves highly enough when working with the metal, especially once you start cutting - the jagged edges are razor sharp.

I used short, self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach the pieces to the existing metal (be careful to check what you're screwing into, you don't want to hit anything mechanical or glass). I'd recommend getting a couple blocks of duct seal and work in into any space between two pieces or metal in the door to decouple them. Put a punch between the outer door panel and the metal supports to brace the whole outside panel well for a couple bucks.

Then you'll want to put CLD tiles on the outer panel and your aluminum pieces. SDS has a great article, which you can read here.

Good luck!

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I used sheet metal and deadener.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

an alternative is mass loaded vinyl (MLV) and closed cell foam. the MLV will block road noise better than sheet metal.

i took that approach this time around in my 2014 Accord.

deadener on

fiberglass panels before

fiberglass panels in

CCF on metal surfaces to decouple MLV

CCF on inside (sticky side out) for water protection - water will run down the inside otherwise

MLV on with sheet metal screws every so ofter to hold it in place and CCF strips to seal it to the CCF on the door metal.

the MLV i use is available at Home Depot - DB3

dB-3 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX at The Home Depot

the CCF i use is Ensolite from Raamaudio

Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick --- 1 yard (13.875 sq ft) - RAAMaudio Inc.

the deadener is BXT II from Raamaudio

RAAMmat BXT II, 37.5 sq ft bulk pack. - RAAMaudio Inc.

the yellow pieces are compressed fiberglass ceiling tiles (white surface removed) that are encased in 1mil PVC sheeting (painters drop cloth). $6 for a 2x4 tile does both doors, $3 for the plastic. that $10 investment will make the speakers sound several times better than without.

 

[The Camry]

Ok time to get that done. Got the cash to order it. Is 1 yard of ccf enough to do both doors. Same question with the deadener. I assume 38 sq ft is plenty of deadener.

 

[CSCStang]

an alternative is mass loaded vinyl (MLV) and closed cell foam. the MLV will block road noise better than sheet metal.
i took that approach this time around in my 2014 Accord.

deadener on

fiberglass panels before

fiberglass panels in

CCF on metal surfaces to decouple MLV

CCF on inside (sticky side out) for water protection - water will run down the inside otherwise

MLV on with sheet metal screws every so ofter to hold it in place and CCF strips to seal it to the CCF on the door metal.

the MLV i use is available at Home Depot - DB3

dB-3 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX at The Home Depot

the CCF i use is Ensolite from Raamaudio

Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick --- 1 yard (13.875 sq ft) - RAAMaudio Inc.

the deadener is BXT II from Raamaudio

RAAMmat BXT II, 37.5 sq ft bulk pack. - RAAMaudio Inc.

the yellow pieces are compressed fiberglass ceiling tiles (white surface removed) that are encased in 1mil PVC sheeting (painters drop cloth). $6 for a 2x4 tile does both doors, $3 for the plastic. that $10 investment will make the speakers sound several times better than without.

Do this^^ You won't regret it. Love my front stage after these treatments.

 

[The Camry]

i will. I just need to know if i order 1 of everything. if it will be enough to do both doors.

also ive read about putting deflex pads or closed cell foam behind your speaker to move standing waves. Do i still need to do that after doing this? I dont see anything of that sort in his build pics.

 

[CSCStang]

i will. I just need to know if i order 1 of everything. if it will be enough to do both doors.
also ive read about putting deflex pads or closed cell foam behind your speaker to move standing waves. Do i still need to do that after doing this? I dont see anything of that sort in his build pics.

The mlv was actually enough to do 2 cars and I have pretty big Mustang doors. 1 order of the ccf will be enough. I didn't need to add any, the insulation on the outer skin was enough.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i will. I just need to know if i order 1 of everything. if it will be enough to do both doors.
also ive read about putting deflex pads or closed cell foam behind your speaker to move standing waves. Do i still need to do that after doing this? I dont see anything of that sort in his build pics.

deflex pads or CCF are nearly useless and don't absorb sound by their very nature. deflex pads are too small to be of use to midbass. the yellow compressed fiberglass is what absorbs sound, the 1 mil PVC sheeting over it keeps it dry and acts as a membrane absorber to further improve midbass absorption. as much as you can make work.

 

[The Camry]

So the fiberglass purpose is to absorb the some of the backwave frequencies before it even hits the MLV. Yea?

Also i was thinking about covering the edges with CCF then putting sheetmetal on the hole. Deadening the sheetmetal. Then putting a layer of MLV ontop of the sheetmetal/deadener. then putting another layer of sheetmetal on top of that. Effectively creating about a 1 inch sealed area that has MLV in it. Would that be over kill or????

Doing that as well as everything else mentioned above.