How to Calculate Wire Size.

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Well apparently it does take some intution. Because most people seem to think that if you have a 2500 watt mono block, that you need to have multiple runs of 1/0 when running a stock alternator (keep in mind this is for noncompetitive situation). As in my first post the current flow from the front of the vehicle to the rear battery bank cannot exceed the amount of current produced by the altnernator and battery. It doesn't matter if the amplifiers are drawing 500a, the rest must be supplied by the battery bank. Which means if you just throw the 500a of amplifier draw into the simple calculators, you are going to get some extremely inflated number with regards to your power wire needs.

A good battery can supply hundreds of amps for a short period of time, meaning if you install wire based on your alternator's continuous output only then your going to have a nice fire on your hands. You choose the wire size according to what the amplifier CAN draw, not what it draws continuously. There is no guessing involved, it's all math.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

My bad I edited out the part about battery current in my first post to shorten it up upon request. Sorry, but I did cleary state that you need to include the battery in subsequent posts.

"current flow from the front of the vehicle to the rear battery bank cannot exceed the amount of current produced by the altnernator and battery"

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Are you really that dense? I just said that batteries can supply immense amounts of current, meaning the front battery (which believe it or not, falls under the "battery" category) can supply hundreds of amps to the rear of the car. I'd be willing to wager 99% of the people with more than one run of wire from the front to the back have an upgraded alternator and are trying to minimize voltage drop.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

I know a lot of of people who cannot afford upgraded alternators and survive on battery banks. If you want me to go in depth about how to calculate how much current a battery is capable of producing, we can talk about it in pm. It is all calculations, you will need to contact the manufacturer for the specs needed.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I know a lot of of people who cannot afford upgraded alternators and survive on battery banks. If you want me to go in depth about how to calculate how much current a battery is capable of producing, we can talk about it in pm. It is all calculations, you will need to contact the manufacturer for the specs needed.

And that's a really good way to cook your alternator.

I don't need you to educate me on anything brah, you can keep your superiority complex to yourself.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

I am off to class now, but if your interested let me know through pm.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I am off to class now, but if your interested let me know through pm.

Once again, I'm not interested.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

Who is the one that is dense? I am offering to teach you how to test how effective any battery is at supplying your amplifier for your specific needs, and your not interested. Have a good day sir.

 

[Cabin_Pressure 10+ year member]

My bad I edited out the part about battery current in my first post to shorten it up upon request. Sorry, but I did cleary state that you need to include the battery in subsequent posts.

"current flow from the front of the vehicle to the rear battery bank cannot exceed the amount of current produced by the altnernator and battery"

Then even YOU should be able to see that a battery with 1000 CA/CCA can cook a piece of single 1/0 if there is a continuous draw or direct short of more than ~185A. There are charts that have all this plotted, your "thoughts" on the subject are fine...............if you want to be less than adequate.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Who is the one that is dense? I am offering to teach you how to test how effective any battery is at supplying your amplifier for your specific needs, and your not interested. Have a good day sir.

I don't need you to teach me because I already know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

We can keep the arguement going, I have offerered to expain exactly how to measure the maximum amount of current any battery to your audio system. A battery that provides 1000CA/CCA is generally a less then a 5 second rating depending on brand. Care to explain how a vehicle that comes with such a size battery stock, is able to function properly with stock wiring in place on a day to day basis?

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

We can keep the arguement going, I have offerered to expain exactly how to measure the maximum amount of current any battery to your audio system.

And this has what to do with our current discussion?

A battery that provides 1000CA/CCA is generally a less then a 5 second rating depending on brand. Care to explain how a vehicle that comes with such a size battery stock, is able to function properly with stock wiring in place on a day to day basis?

Because stock vehicles don't have high current draw amplifiers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

This thread was not intended for the hardcore competitors looking to eek out tenths in the lanes. It is meant for the person who is trying to save money, and is ok with their amp seeing ~12 volts.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

And this has what to do with our current discussion?


Because stock vehicles don't have high current draw amplifiers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Yes, this goes back to the original point in the thread man. If your running an 80 amp alternator, 4 gauge wire in the big 3 is more then sufficient for most people.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

This thread was not intended for the hardcore competitors looking to eek out tenths in the lanes. It is meant for the person who is trying to save money, and is ok with their amp seeing ~12 volts.

Which should be no one. Low voltage kills amplifiers, period. Any voltage drop is unacceptable. The reason we recommend that they start with 1/0 even if they don't need it is because this isn't a hobby where people build one system and stick with it forever. Sooner or later, everyone wants to upgrade. Now if they take your route and just use barely adequate wiring, well then they've wasted a lot of time and money on something they're now going to have to upgrade. The cost difference between 4 gauge and 1/0 is almost negligible when compared to the cost of additional installation/work time.

 

---------- Post added at 04:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------

 

Yes, this goes back to the original point in the thread man. If your running an 80 amp alternator, 4 gauge wire in the big 3 is more then sufficient for most people.

I would agree if their entire electrical system is stock.