anybody know a website i can go to lookup the amperage of my jeep?
Also, i know this question is asked alot, but would buying a yellowtop for the back keep up well with my daily demands? (less than 1000WRMS)
EDIT: I have a redtop up front already
this man is my hero when it comes to car electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifThe need for a HO alt is largely misunderstood and thus greatly exaggerated.
This post almost perfectly exemplifies the common misconception about the relationship between the batteries and the alt. You don't have to even approach the capacity of the alt to begin to draw from the batteries or get the lights to dim. All you need to do is have a rapid spike in the current demand. The alternator only produces the amount of current that is being demanded at any given time. It takes time for the regulator to detect a voltage drop from an increase in current demand and adjust to compensate. During this adjustment period, the battery or batteries are taking up the slack. More batteries allow for a bigger spike without a huge drop in voltage. Depending on the nature and duration of the current the alt may not contribute to it at all. For example the spike from a musical transient may well be over before the alternator reacts. As such there's no strain on the alt at all and it must only replace the charge lost from the battery. The amount that the voltage drops during the transient depends on how much reserve current you have in the batteries. Regardless of the size of the alt, this same thing will occur. All you need from the alt is to be able to cover the average current draw of the system. The batteries allow the peaks to be averaged out so the peak draw of the amp is only important in determining the amount of reserve you need in the battery bank. Adding more batteries adds no more real strain on the alt until you're talking about a trunk full, or you've got such a high average draw that the batteries are being discharged continuously. With music, the latter is nearly impossible unless you're listening to stuff that has a very small crest factor on the bass (I'd hardly call that music).^^ agreed. The way I understand it is the batteries act as a cushion/reserve/whatever your word is, in a sense. Problem is once you reach the point of drawing off them your alternator is under strain. While the power is on tap during the time when it is needed, and in parts of the song where there isnt extreme bass, your alt should charge your batteries. Thats where the whole "music is dynamic" thing comes in. Any stock alt under these circumstances though is taking more strain than it was really designed for and its life wil be shorter than normal.
Adding a HO alt is rarely needed. They add no capacity for transient demand. They also usually provide less current at low RPMs which could allow them to be overwhelmed by the system and the batteries to be discharged.While the part about a h/o alt being like adding two batteries is correct, its still better to have a good solid h/o alt because they can go further before straining, are built to handle more strain, and have more capacity to charge the batteries.
x2...as long as it's any kind of respectable voltage, worry about having backup for that voltage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gifx10000000000000000000
You adjusted that just for the pic, didnt you? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif...jk //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Iraggi, 5 Kinetiks, lots of 0/1