how the hell do i keep ****ing up subs?

[mr_imperial 10+ year member]

does your car rattle so much you cant tell the subs are distorting/amps clipping? ;-p

to be honest there is some loud as hell rattling coming from the plastic under the rear window but other than that no

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

does your amp have a subsonic filter on it? might try setting it to about 20hz

 

[mr_imperial 10+ year member]

does your amp have a subsonic filter on it? might try setting it to about 20hz

ok ill try that. someone told me though it is for ported boxes is this true?

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

ok ill try that. someone told me though it is for ported boxes is this true?

well its not like it wont work for a sub in a sealed box either...at the very least it would reduce some overexcursion at low fequencies

 

[itzme218 10+ year member]

What kind of sub system are you trying to build? SQ or SPL ..... I'm thinking you're thinking "this ain't wanging I gotta turn it louder" louder louder amp clips subs boooooop. Get a better amp and better sub if you want it LOUD

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

There's basically only two ways to blow a sub, thermally (too much current through the coils, they over heat and melt) or mechanically (sub is over-excurted beyond its motor and/or suspension limit, causing it to bottom out).

Thermal issues would be caused by too much input power to the speaker, a heavily clipped signal, and/or something that hurts the sub's ability to cool itself (mounting pole vent too close to rear wall for example). Thermal problems are generally caused by incorrect gain settings, bass boost, or both.

Mechanically you can only over excurt the sub by giving it too much power, building the box incorrectly (too big, too much prt area, etc) or driving the signal down below tuning in vented applications where the sub unloads.

Everything else is voodoo.

 

[shadow_ 10+ year member]

You forgot a way to blow a sub. Well one i know from personally. I let a friend borrow my bandbass box when i had my license suspended. He calls me up after a week says it doesn't sound right all of a sudden. He listened to a lot of punk rock. Old korn and such. I told him to turn it on, on sub was barely if any moving. So i took it home and figured he just blew the sub. I took a look at it a couple months ago and took the subs out. For some reason he went in the box and rewired. The one that worked was wired + to + - to -. The other one he wired the + and - to the positive clip on the sub. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

 

[dcyphure 10+ year member]

not discrediting the science behind subs and amps but

i used to have 2 10" punch subs to a punch 60 amp...i had the 40hz/18db bass boost full blast and gains moderate and input full blast, had it that way for 2 years and never hurt the subs

i wonder why cause now i have 2 jl audio's, gains minimal and punch bass up most of the way and now they sound like crap and distort easily...so even though they work they are permantly f**ed up right and considered blown?

 

[Blunt 10+ year member]

not discrediting the science behind subs and amps buti used to have 2 10" punch subs to a punch 60 amp...i had the 40hz/18db bass boost full blast and gains moderate and input full blast, had it that way for 2 years and never hurt the subs

i wonder why cause now i have 2 jl audio's, gains minimal and punch bass up most of the way and now they sound like crap and distort easily...so even though they work they are permantly f**ed up right and considered blown?

if the heavy clipped signal doesnt generate enough heat to exceed thermal limits the sub wont blow. turn the bass boost OFF.