How exactly do you bi amp passive components??

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

that's why running active is great - just be careful. you will definitely blow those speakers with that amp if they're getting too much power.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

that's why running active is great - just be careful. you will definitely blow those speakers with that amp if they're getting too much power.

Running passive for now actually and they're still that loud haha. They sound fantastice. Might upgrade later but this is everything I wanted in a car audio system tbh. Want to get into imaging and stuff eventually to take advantage of these. I'm just not sure on how to properly time align with a bridged amp though. I just switched my rear channels to be delayed the same as my fronts (l and r respectively)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Running passive for now actually and they're still that loud haha. They sound fantastice. Might upgrade later but this is everything I wanted in a car audio system tbh. Want to get into imaging and stuff eventually to take advantage of these. I'm just not sure on how to properly time align with a bridged amp though. I just switched my rear channels to be delayed the same as my fronts (l and r respectively)

Just measure the distance between the tweeter and the mids, right at the center of that, then measure from that point to your ears. Then set the time alignment. Its not perfectionist quality, but its still works very well. Afterwards just play around with the imaging till vocals feel like they are dead center on the dash.

Adjust the fader and fade to front a little bit also to left or right if your left side feels louder than your right.

Dont be EQ shy either, a proper curve will help the soundstage out a lot(just dont go boosting to +4 or 6 on the sub-bass frequencies). You want it sparkly, yet buttery smooth, yet very present that can keep up with a strong sub-stage which can be done with cuts and few tiny boost to flatten out the response and tailor the response to your liking. Unless you want IN YOUR FACE loud then keep it flat.

Lower the sub level a bit until it blends with your mids then time align it until it feels like the bass is being played by the front speaker and all the bass/music is coming from the front windshield so when a drum solo comes, you feel like the drums are sweeping across the dashboard. One song i'd recommend for testing this is Waking the Demon - bullet for my valentine After the 10 second mark there's a drum sweep. You'll want it reaching wide across the dash without it sounding weak at the center. A song I use for center vocal tuning would be echosmith - bright

After its all done, then you can raise your sub level back to where you like it.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Just measure the distance between the tweeter and the mids, right at the center of that, then measure from that point to your ears. Then set the time alignment. Its not perfectionist quality, but its still works very well. Afterwards just play around with the imaging till vocals feel like they are dead center on the dash.
Adjust the fader and fade to front a little bit also to left or right if your left side feels louder than your right.

Dont be EQ shy either, a proper curve will help the soundstage out a lot(just dont go boosting to +4 or 6 on the sub-bass frequencies). You want it sparkly, yet buttery smooth, yet very present that can keep up with a strong sub-stage which can be done with cuts and few tiny boost to flatten out the response and tailor the response to your liking. Unless you want IN YOUR FACE loud then keep it flat.

Lower the sub level a bit until it blends with your mids then time align it until it feels like the bass is being played by the front speaker and all the bass/music is coming from the front windshield so when a drum solo comes, you feel like the drums are sweeping across the dashboard. One song i'd recommend for testing this is Waking the Demon - bullet for my valentine After the 10 second mark there's a drum sweep. You'll want it reaching wide across the dash without it sounding weak at the center. A song I use for center vocal tuning would be echosmith - bright

After its all done, then you can raise your sub level back to where you like it.

Thanks, but that's not what I mean man. I know exactly how to set time alignment when the amp is not bridged. I'm having problems setting it when BRIDGED. Because ch 1 and 2, formerly l and r, are now both left channels. Same with the right. So time alignment on the HU is different now and I'm not quite sure how to do it. I just set everything at the same delay (15ms) except the sub, just to keep my sub delay problem in check, but it seems like my HU doesn't support bridged DTA because the DTA settings don't seem to make any difference at all, whereas with my stock speakers, TA did wonders for the sound.

I was actually running these at 450w at side too. They were SO loud. I turned the gain way down because I don't want to toast these but I do miss that insanely loud concert sound haha. They sound great though

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Thanks, but that's not what I mean man. I know exactly how to set time alignment when the amp is not bridged. I'm having problems setting it when BRIDGED. Because ch 1 and 2, formerly l and r, are now both left channels. Same with the right. So time alignment on the HU is different now and I'm not quite sure how to do it. I just set everything at the same delay (15ms) except the sub, just to keep my sub delay problem in check, but it seems like my HU doesn't support bridged DTA because the DTA settings don't seem to make any difference at all, whereas with my stock speakers, TA did wonders for the sound.
I was actually running these at 450w at side too. They were SO loud. I turned the gain way down because I don't want to toast these but I do miss that insanely loud concert sound haha. They sound great though

you'll have to change your RCA outputs so that CH1+2 RCA's are now left only from the hu and 3+4 are now right.

when bridging, think of each two channels as a single channel with two summed RCA inputs

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That ^^^

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Thanks. Yeahs it's just that I was advised to not go active without a dsp or at least an 80prs so I just got components, but I could have spent less than half the money for way better stuff by just going active to begin with in the way you're saying, with just the crossovers on the amp. I brought up that option and people said it was just one small step into going active and it was a half ***'d attempt and only partially complete method of doing so, and that some high quality comps would be better. Oh well I'll see how these turn out this weekend. I have a feeling 900 watts on mids and highs will screaaam even with passive crossovers though... Won't give em quite that much. What do you think would be good power for these 125wrms rated comps? 200 watts a side?

I have a set of my Passive Crossovers from my Rainbow Components. They have an option to biamp with 4 separate channels while still being able to run passive. They are in mint condition too. Biamping passively is like the in between of active and 2 channel passive. It is not quite like active because the crossovers are pre set, but atleast you can control the tweeter gain and mid gain individually, which is basically a step up from the usual passive but without the fuss and headaches of a fully active setup. It does have 4 different crossover settings to choose from though. I can include the manual for further details of tuning. Let me know if you're interested.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I have a set of my Passive Crossovers from my Rainbow Components. They have an option to biamp with 4 separate channels while still being able to run passive. They are in mint condition too. Biamping passively is like the in between of active and 2 channel passive. It is not quite like active because the crossovers are pre set, but atleast you can control the tweeter gain and mid gain individually, which is basically a step up from the usual passive but without the fuss and headaches of a fully active setup. It does have 4 different crossover settings to choose from though. I can include the manual for further details of tuning. Let me know if you're interested.

Lol. That ship has sailed man. Already hooked these up and while they aren't biamp capable, they're fantastic sounding and loud and seem to take 300 watts per side daily so I'll be keeping these. Thanks though

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Glad you like them. Run them active and they get a lot better.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Glad you like them. Run them active and they get a lot better.

Thanks. Just worried I might have slightly damaged or strained them because I really was literally giving them 400-450 watts a side at one point. I didn't mean to ever turn it up that high and reach or come anywhere near max volume but I kept turning it up and up and it just kept sounding better and better and more concert like lol. It was the guitar solo on "Money" by Pink Floyd. I think they're fine though, they sound fine. I've honestly never heard music that loud before in my life. They're getting maybe 250 watts a side now and I miss how loud they were. It definitely does not sound only 3db less even though its half the power. Still great though. If I go active I'll probably do it right with a DSP and some nice PA drivers that can handle this power no problem.

BTW, the tweeter level control is a 3 position switch that allows me to choose -2, 0, and +2. I currently have it on 0. That means I'm giving the tweets and 6.5's roughly the same power right? It says 0 means 4.7 ohm impedance, -2 is like 6ohm, and +2 is like 3ohm. Shouldn't the tweeter be on less power than the midrange? And I guess that means I was giving them 400 watts? That seems like a hugely extreme overkill amount for tweeters.