How does my wiring diagram look??

[takeabao 10+ year member]

http://img93.echo.cx/img93/1962/systemmap2ep.jpg

The only things I need to buy are the mono Alpine amp (which I can get for a ridiculously cheap price...I currently work for Best Buy), the RE comps, the sub, sound-deadening, and of course, wiring and wood (for my box/amp-rack combo). I aiming to spend no more than $600 for EVERYTHING. I think that's a pretty modest estimate, but I'm not sure exactly how much little miscellaneous things may add on.

I had a couple questions: At what point should I consider getting a new battery? Im currently using a cheap-o Costco 550-cca one that my Dad put in my car when I was out've town. Also, I don't have the biggest of alternators (I think it's 70 or 80 amps) so would an h/o alt, be a sensible option later on?

All other things aside, how does my wiring diagram look...everything make sense? If not, what needs to be corrected? Thanks in advance.

-Ray

Click to read more...

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

Yep everything looks fine in it. Is the sub amp stable for 2 ohm mono?

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

You may want to look into a higher capacity battery, and upgrade your Big 3. But otherwise, I doubt you'll need a HO alt anytime soon.

 

[cjjackson85 5,000+ posts]

Where's the capacitor?

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

You may want to look into a higher capacity battery, and upgrade your Big 3. But otherwise, I doubt you'll need a HO alt anytime soon.

Whoops completely forgot to answer that part //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

x2 on what john said, BUT if you have the extra money a new HO alt wouldnt hurt. Plus it would leave lots of room for expansion in the future if you decide to do something bigger.

 

[takeabao 10+ year member]

@ cjjackson85: No need for a capacitor in my opinion.

@ john/blackgeltabs: I'm really going to try to avoid a major electrical upgrade (like the aforementioned h/o alt)...The big-3 is a definite, seeing that I'll have a bit of 4-ga wire left from the install. I'm kinda skeptical about getting a new battery simply due to the cost. To my understanding, the Optima Yellowtop is 150 ish. I think i'll give the big-3 a shot and then see if I run into big-time voltage drops and then perhaps upgrade if necessary.

This is all going into my 94 Camry (which I take A LOT of pride in) but I don't plan on keeping the car for a whole lot longer. I'm seriously considering a fuel efficient lighter-truck (possibly a Tacoma) in which case my system will simply be moved into that (hence the smaller footprints for the amps). I anticipate it being a lot easier of an install in a truck that in my Camry...

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

I have a 98 Camry, all i have done is the big 3. But the next 2 things on my list are a new batt and alt in that order. It dosnt need to be a yellow top, just a battery that puts out a lot of cold cranking amps will be better than what is in there, most likly. Yellow tops are nice though if you have the money!!

I get voltage drop in my car, big time when the headlights are on. Im running ~900 watts in my setup.

 

[takeabao 10+ year member]

Hmm, I'm going to be running a lot less wattage....350+200=550...perhaps the Big 3 is all I need?

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

Yeah might definitly be able to get away with that. Even if you still get some its going to be pretty minimal. Definitly do the big 3, for all of 10 bucks its the best electrical thing you can do.

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

a little more than ten bucks..

 

[ToyTundra 10+ year member]

I'm seriously considering a fuel efficient lighter-truck (possibly a Tacoma) ......

Tacoma's rule //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/2thumbs.gif.fdc3ba010dbb42b61704534b46d02fe4.gif

 

[Insomniac119 10+ year member]

You need a fused distro block for the power wire. Every time you change wire sizes you must put the appropriate fuses in to protect the wire. If there is a short but it doesn't send a big enough surge to blow the large fuse but is big enough to burn the smaller wire that can't handle it, then your car is going to start of fire.

 

[takeabao 10+ year member]

You need a fused distro block for the power wire. Every time you change wire sizes you must put the appropriate fuses in to protect the wire. If there is a short but it doesn't send a big enough surge to blow the large fuse but is big enough to burn the smaller wire that can't handle it, then your car is going to start of fire.

I'll make a note of that. Does it matter what size fuses I use? Can't I just use the highest-rated fuses (fuses are cheap)? What I mean to say is, the knukonceptz fuse holder comes with a free fuse with purchase, so even though my system may not warrant it, it'd be okay to pute a 300 amp fuse in there right? The same can be asked for the distro-blocks...

 

[Nightskye 10+ year member]

Read Insomniac's post again. Fuse for the wire size.

http://www.bcae1.com/ and go down to the Fuses section.

 

[94CamryBumpin 10+ year member]

1994 camrys are the shit...