How do you cut your box pieces?

On time I used a drill to cut out one piece it took 2 hours.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 
ok...this is what you do....

Go outside and find a piece of flint

then, scrape it against the ground to give it that nice sharp edge

then, get two sticks...but use some common sense to get thick enough sticks, knowing that your going to be swinging this thing around....

then, go visit your nearest palm tree and steal one of his branches.

then pull off the string like things that are all over your stolen branch

then tie the piece of sharpened flint to one end of the sticks in an "X" like fashion...over then under over then under....

then take a whack at your piece of MDF, Cavemen Style!

or to make it easier....just use a table saw //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif !

 
On a serious note, get a cheapo 4' level and drill a hole near each end, so you can screw it down to the wood for your cuts. That's about the BEST you'll do with a circular saw.

I finally got a table saw a few months back and the actual cuts aren't any better, just a LOT faster. And the nail gun I picked up last week, OMFG how did I live without one!!!! No more BS pre-drilling/screwing, now it's just test fit, slap on some glue, clamp in place and pop in a few nails....

 
No more BS pre-drilling/screwing, now it's just test fit, slap on some glue, clamp in place and pop in a few nails....
not to get off topic here. but although i have a brad nailer and use it on every enclosure, i have to give props the the screws because by the tests i have done even after the wood glue has dried the wood screws actually still hold the wood together with more strength then just brad nails and glue alone.

but yeah brad nails are way easier then screws.

 
i just look at the sheet of plywood, and it cuts itself out of fear.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
not to get off topic here. but although i have a brad nailer and use it on every enclosure, i have to give props the the screws because by the tests i have done even after the wood glue has dried the wood screws actually still hold the wood together with more strength then just brad nails and glue alone. but yeah brad nails are way easier then screws.
Assuming your using a "Wood Glue", you let the glue set correctly and the cutts are straight, there should be no need for either screws or braid nails other then to help hold the peices while the glue sets.

The only reason you get a "stronger" hold of the pieces between nail and screw is the surface area difference. More surface area = more hold, becuase there is more material in contact with the fasener.

In theory the chemical bond the glue makes is just as strong as the wood. If you want to know why the wood would "break" at pivot point or angle, pick up a book on physics.

 
lol, how do you think they make MDF, cut into a tree and ship it to Home Depot...

"Just having Fun" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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