How do I bypass the Protection Device on this amp

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DStringham435

Been installing car audio since 1993
I have been installing car audio since 1993, but have never actually tried doing anything internal to amplifiers. I have a single channel 1800 watt amp that goes into protect mode within seconds of being turned on. Long story short I am aware that bypassing the protect device on the amp could, and will eventually make this amp destroy itself. That is OK cause it was only $15. It is an Audiotek amp. I am also aware it could damage speakers hooked up to it. Let's keep it simple, and to the point! Bypass protect mode. How? GO
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Lol you don't its probably in protect because it failed already

If you managed to turn it and and it was damaged it could cause a fire.

Way too many cheap amps these days to take that risk
I have safety measures already in place for a fire. Smoke detector that triggers a flame retardent spray in my trunk directed at the amps along with a custom AC duct to trunk with a high powered fan to keep the amps cool to prevent the amps from over heating. I also have a digital backup power supply that also acts as a AC/DC power converter that has 8 plug ports with 3 USB ports.
 
I have safety measures already in place for a fire. Smoke detector that triggers a flame retardent spray in my trunk directed at the amps along with a custom AC duct to trunk with a high powered fan to keep the amps cool to prevent the amps from over heating. I also have a digital backup power supply that also acts as a AC/DC power converter that has 8 plug ports with 3 USB ports.

So? If you don't know what your doing people aren't going to send you poking around inside a high voltage amplifier.

Not to mention that picture shows nothing. No model number no board details. You are messing with components that you solder while using a magnifying glass. One little pic with zero close ups and a blue light doesn't help.

My bet is you ran it low voltage and blew something in the power supply
 
First time using one of these threads / forums. I'm 42 and was raised by an aunt that soldered circuit boads for a living. I have the tech skills needed to do this. Just haven't worked on the internal of an amps b4. Just replaced em whenever there were problems. Posting updated pics and info on amp.
 
So? If you don't know what your doing people aren't going to send you poking around inside a high voltage amplifier.

Not to mention that picture shows nothing. No model number no board details. You are messing with components that you solder while using a magnifying glass. One little pic with zero close ups and a blue light doesn't help.

My bet is you ran it low voltage and blew something in the power supply
 
I will reconnect the amp and check voltage with my meter. If it works, and does not go into protect mode I will leave the meter connected to see what happens with the voltage while driving. Keeping my fingers crossed because this is the last bass amp I have on hand until I get a new 4,000 watt Rockville Amp that was specifically made for my 2 12" Rockville Subs that I have had for a few months now.
 
I will reconnect the amp and check voltage with my meter. If it works, and does not go into protect mode I will leave the meter connected to see what happens with the voltage while driving. Keeping my fingers crossed because this is the last bass amp I have on hand until I get a new 4,000 watt Rockville Amp that was specifically made for my 2 12" Rockville Subs that I have had for a few months now.

Please don't buy Rockville. What is your budget for an amp? No amps are made for specific subs.
 
I just noticed you said something about low voltage being a possible cause of the amp problem. I currently have a 220 amps Powermaster Street Altenator purchased from Summit Racing Equipment a few months back that was installed by a master mechanic. I also have a deep cycle battery installed in the trunk next to the amps. I disconnect the deep cycle battery from the line that connects it to the Altenator, and amps basicly making the deep cycle battery useless before turning off the car. I have the deep cycle battery in place for when I want to listen to music outside of the car when it's not running. When I use the deep cycle battery I disconnect the line that runs to the altenator so that the deep cycle battery is the only source of power supply. I just recently bought the Audiotek Amp a few days ago for $15, and haven't used it without the car on using power from the altenator. My Memphis Amp has never been in protect mode with my current setup or ways I've used. Possibly the guy I bought it from was the culprit to what you are describing of potentially being the problem with this amp. I appreciate your help, and input on this "Band aid" I'm trying to accomplish that will hold me over until buying a permanent solution.
 

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DStringham435

Been installing car audio since 1993
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