How do i adjust my Jl Audio Slash 1000.1 amp to get its full power ??

Saini.Preet
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ok i have 3 10' W6's which are 600 rms each and a Slash 1000.1 amp..as you know jl amps are underated and my installer told me he adjusted the amp to only 300 rms goin to each sub..is'nt that underpowering my subs ?? i know i should'nt be putting exactly 600 rms to each but styll atleast 400 rms should be good right ?? so my question is how do i change my amp setting so that i get the full power out of it which would be around 1100 rms i guess (around 350 to each sub) ?? and would that make my subs louder or sound better ?? and is it gonna be safe for long run both amps and subs ??

 
ok i have 3 10' W6's which are 600 rms each and a Slash 1000.1 amp..as you know jl amps are underated and my installer told me he adjusted the amp to only 300 rms goin to each sub..is'nt that underpowering my subs ?? i know i should'nt be putting exactly 600 rms to each but styll atleast 400 rms should be good right ?? so my question is how do i change my amp setting so that i get the full power out of it which would be around 1100 rms i guess (around 350 to each sub) ?? and would that make my subs louder or sound better ?? and is it gonna be safe for long run both amps and subs ??
There is alot to do here.

first you need to get the actual final ohm load on the amp. should be around 1 ohm.

Get your self a Digital multi meter. Measure the DC voltage from the battery with you car on and off. Car off should be your resting voltage, Car on is your alternator charge voltage and willl climb with increased RPM.

Amyhow. If you have good solid 12V or more, then the amp should do at least rated. Most of the time amps that claim more than rated are banking on a higher voltage from your batts and alt.

read section 14-15 http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Slash_amps/1000_1_MAN.pdf

1.5 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.

each subs is getting 333watts.RMS.@ 12volts.

The guide show also how to calculate the voltage. 1000watts @ 1ohm is 31.62278 ACVOLTS, ----> also on that page.

Ohm's Law Calculators So what you need to do is just aims for 31.62 AC volts. You do that by measuring the voltage across the speaker output terminals on the amp with the speakers hooked up and make sure the DMM is switched to AC volts. Then you can adjust with a 50 HZ test tone. Make sure you disconect the Mids and highs so you dont blow them. Also make sure your deck "stereo settings are all flat." that means no loudnes, no bass level up or tweet level up, no bass boost on amp. You want everything flat. Your amp should be > LPF should be 100hz or so, and subsonic should be off. again no bass boost anywhere when setting the gain on the amp. Turn the deck up 90% increased.. Anyhow, if you have questions PM me.

 
what digital MM do you suggest? ive found some on ebay which one would do be ideal?

Digital multi meter | eBay

also i have a stock battery on a kicker 2500.1 w 2 american bass xfl 12's do you suggest upgrading the battery?

sorry for thread jacking just thought id ask here instead of making another thread

also when you say disconnect mids and highs what do you mean?

 
Are the subs W6's or W6v2's, it's important because they have different impedances. The W6 has dual 6Ω voice coils and the W6v2 has dual 4Ω coils. If the installer knew what he was doing there is no way he would wire down to 1Ω with that amp, below 1.5Ω the amp will cut output and shut off. Three W6's can be wired to a 4Ω final load and still get full output from the amp. If they are W6v2's they should be wired to a 2.6Ω final load. I wouldn't mess with trying to do more than rated power if you don't have an oscilloscope. There wont be much difference in output between 333W and 350W, but if the 350W signal is clipped it could damage your subs. If you want to verify you are getting full rated power from your amp, verify the final load and double check the output voltage. The amp should be set at 63.2VAC for W6's wired at 4Ω, or 51.6VAC for W6v2's wired at 2.6Ω.

 
Are the subs W6's or W6v2's, it's important because they have different impedances. The W6 has dual 6Ω voice coils and the W6v2 has dual 4Ω coils. If the installer knew what he was doing there is no way he would wire down to 1Ω with that amp, below 1.5Ω the amp will cut output and shut off. Three W6's can be wired to a 4Ω final load and still get full output from the amp. If they are W6v2's they should be wired to a 2.6Ω final load. I wouldn't mess with trying to do more than rated power if you don't have an oscilloscope. There wont be much difference in output between 333W and 350W, but if the 350W signal is clipped it could damage your subs. If you want to verify you are getting full rated power from your amp, verify the final load and double check the output voltage. The amp should be set at 63.2VAC for W6's wired at 4Ω, or 51.6VAC for W6v2's wired at 2.6Ω.
so they dont take impedance rise into account. Thats good to know.

 
what digital MM do you suggest? ive found some on ebay which one would do be ideal?
Digital multi meter | eBay

also i have a stock battery on a kicker 2500.1 w 2 american bass xfl 12's do you suggest upgrading the battery?

sorry for thread jacking just thought id ask here instead of making another thread

also when you say disconnect mids and highs what do you mean?
Get whatever multimeter you wish
you should have a "deep cycle" battery. If you want to replace then replace, If you want to run two, then get matching batts.

I mean that you could and will blow the mids and highs if you have the headunit turned up that loud. wheather you have it powered by the deck or a four chan amp, make sure they are turned off, disconected. Dont leave expossed wires, Newbs tend to do that and short their decks or amps out .... cover speaker wire with tape if you do it that way, just dont cross or ground them out.

 
so they dont take impedance rise into account. Thats good to know.
Since impedance rise changes based on frequency and other factors it's not really safe to rely on it to run an amp below rated nominal impedance daily. Three W6v2's wired in parallel would be .667Ω nominal before impedance rise, the actual DC resistance of the coils in parallel would be .525Ω. There's no good reason to wire the subs that low when series/parallel will fall within rated nominal of 1.5-4. The amp will output the same wattage as the lower load but it wont have the potential of shutting down randomly if the impedance happens to drop below 1.5Ω. Why give yourself the headache.

 
Thank you all for taking your time out and answering my question but this is getting too cpmplicated for me i'll probably leave it as it is or talk to my installer about it..i hope he does'nt charge me for this..and they are 3 W6 v2's by the way

 
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