Honestly, how much of a change would i get from going from sealed to ported?

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

thats because something is wrong with the set up. You need to get it looked at before thinnking of going with different boxes. You will be surprised how much output it will have once its properly working.
a Perfect w/ 200 watts is going to wimper to a RL-p with 1200.

is the box that its in, 1cuft net or gross?

Well its getting looked at tommorow, but ive put alot of time into examining most of the system, and i really can' t find anythnig wrong with it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Plus with the wiring issue (my main power wire is wired into the Auxillary Fusebox instead of the battery), the guy who installed it told me they always do that on GM cars becuase GM battery terminals ****, so i honestly cannot find an installation fault in it as of now.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

I was also told if the amp wasn't getting enough power the protection light would be on, which its not.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Well its getting looked at tommorow, but ive put alot of time into examining most of the system, and i really can' t find anythnig wrong with it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Plus with the wiring issue (my main power wire is wired into the Auxillary Fusebox instead of the battery), the guy who installed it told me they always do that on GM cars becuase GM battery terminals ****, so i honestly cannot find an installation fault in it as of now.

Regardless if that is the cause or not, It needs to be redone. Who cares if GM terminals **** it needs to be directly connected to the battery.

Oh and don't forget the fuse in line next to the battery...

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Im really upset guys. It sounds barely better than the Perfect and JL 250/1, and now it dims my lights like crazy, which the old setup did not. Im thinking it wasn't even worth it upgrading since it barely sounds any different, and i should just go back to the perfect or something.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Ok stop repeating yourself...

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

The fuse box could possibly be the problem but I doubt it. Yes you should have it wired to the battery, ive never installed on a ***** am but there people around here that have.

Your stereo would benefit from a few things from what ive seen.

a 0/1 awg main power line to the trunk. 4awg to the 9.1 and 8awg to the 9.2.

The big 3 wire upgrade

Re wire the woofer with all 12awg wire, you have tiny wires on it. your electrical system will only as strong as the weakest link.

Wire to the battery if it can be done!

Talk to mike at sound splinter about your box. I feel its kind of small probably around .85ish after displacement. You may benefit by going to a larger sealed, somewhere in the 1.1-1.25 aread after driver displacement.

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

Im really upset guys. It sounds barely better than the Perfect and JL 250/1, and now it dims my lights like crazy, which the old setup did not. Im thinking it wasn't even worth it upgrading since it barely sounds any different, and i should just go back to the perfect or something.

Your electrical syustem sucks. This could explain everything. If your getting voltage drops down below the 11v area then yes your 9.1 is barely as powerful as the 250/1

 

[allenzo 10+ year member]

Im really upset guys. It sounds barely better than the Perfect and JL 250/1, and now it dims my lights like crazy, which the old setup did not. Im thinking it wasn't even worth it upgrading since it barely sounds any different, and i should just go back to the perfect or something.

Light probably dimming because of not being hooked up directly to battery. I say rip everything out and get it installed by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[00GREENMACHINE 10+ year member]

because going from the Perfect to the RL-P w/ an extra 1000 watts was barely noticebale, and im pretty upset right now. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

I would be REAL upset too.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

ls1pimp-

Talk the talk or walk the walk

Sitting here talking about it will accomplish nothing.

It has been established that a ported enclosure and better power wires are the solution. Go get it done.

Another 20 page thread will not correct your problem.

 

[jsloan10 10+ year member]

X2 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

 

[cpierce 5,000+ posts]

Well its getting looked at tommorow, but ive put alot of time into examining most of the system, and i really can' t find anythnig wrong with it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Plus with the wiring issue (my main power wire is wired into the Auxillary Fusebox instead of the battery), the guy who installed it told me they always do that on GM cars becuase GM battery terminals ****, so i honestly cannot find an installation fault in it as of now.

Whoever told you that tell him to lick your sack, those terminals are better then having that sh!t wired to your fuse box! Your power wire isn't even going to your battery, quite possible the cause to your whole problem! I can understand running a remote wire to the fusebox, but a power wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nono.gif.eca61d170185779e0921b0faa9704973.gif. You need to we wire both of your amps to the battery, with a nice big inline fuse. Run 4ga all the way back to the amps, because 1/0 is a b!tch. Run 12ga speaker wire to your sub. Run 1/0 for the big 3 and I'm guessing by doing the things i mentioned above your problems should be solved. Although I still think you should put the sub in atleast a sealed box that 1.25^3ft after displacement.

 

[PowerdByGuiness 10+ year member]

run that shit to your battery. if that doesnt help get a new sealed box

i didnt get a chance to read your entire other thread but get it all rewired. good wiring and installing makes or breaks you

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

my single 12" CM3 Ported with 500 watts

is almost as loud as my 2 sealed M6s with 1900watts

BUT

the ported doesnt HIT as hard nor as clean

 

[SoundSplinter 10+ year member]

Definitely get your power wiring set straight to the battery!

.. and like I told you in our email correspondance, your box sounds like it's between 0.8 - 0.85 cu ft net, which is honestly just too small for how most people prefer their RL-p's. It'll still sound good, and some people actually don't mind the muted low-end, but when dropping below 1.2 cu ft net you will start to stifle the low-frequency extension and overall output.

If you get your wiring checked out / redone, and you throw that RL-p12 in a 1.25 cu ft net sealed box (or better yet, a 1.5 cu ft net ported box tuned to 34 Hz), you will undoubtedly notice a drastic improvement in output. Glad to hear repositioning your enclosure helped somewhat, but you really need to get the power issue solved, and throw that sucka in a bigger box - you'll be glad you did!