hi level inputs burns up amp

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

heres the issue. i drive a 01 ranger supercab with no premium sound to the best of my knowledge. all i wanted was a little more bass, so with a very cheap amp (no brand anywhere on it) and a cheap clarion sub, i proceded to hook everything up. the amp itself had hi level imputs so i figured i could splice right into the factory speaker wires and just input them to the right and left side hi level inputs on the amp. wrong i guess. it worked great for a little while, then while i was driving home, my sub made a random thump. i changed channels and didnt think anything of it, then it did it again. and again. and thats when i started smelling the smoke. after investigation, i found out that the hi level circuit in the amp had burned up. why? i dont get it. i then bought a line converter and hooked everything up again and it still works! BUT it thumped again. and once more. and i havent hooked it up since. why is this doing this? im experienced with car audio, but have never dealt with hi level inputs. any help would be greatly appriciated. i plan to buy a volt meter and see what the voltage is before and after the converter to see if maybe ive got alot more then i think there is. i want to buy a slightly better amp, but i dont want to spend 100 bucks and have this happen again.

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[The HACKER 10+ year member]

ummmm, unless it just the cheap amp. what ohm load r you running? bridged unbridged? and alsoe what are you using for power wires?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

could be anything. bad ground, shorted speaker wire, bad sub coil, bridging the amp too low.

 

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

4ohm bridged. 8g power wire. its a very cheap setup with low strand count wire not made for this stuff. but how would power wire cause the high level circuit to burn?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

4ohm bridged. 8g power wire. its a very cheap setup with low strand count wire not made for this stuff. but how would power wire cause the high level circuit to burn?

i would look at ground before power personally. you sure you dont have a factory amp somewhere?

 

[The HACKER 10+ year member]

Where and when did you get the sub and amp, and in wht condition? My thoughts are possible clipping issue caused it, but I myself know little about the internals and how they work. So the sub is a single coil 4 ohm? Any idea what the rms of your HU? Could even be a cheap high input component for it to fry...but again dont know internals.

 

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

i really doubt it. ill check the window sticker though and see if maybe the 1st owner did go ahead and get it. if it is, it sure doesnt sound like premium. ill make sure to check the ground. but with that being said, why?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

i really doubt it. ill check the window sticker though and see if maybe the 1st owner did go ahead and get it. if it is, it sure doesnt sound like premium. ill make sure to check the ground. but with that being said, why?

just to rule out a power issue. i always rule out power and ground first thing. i would also check the ohm level or the bridged sub with a meter. checking input voltage, as you suggested, is also a good plan.

 

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

the sub was purchased new a year ago, and has worked great in my house using the same amp and box and a computer power supply. never have i ever had issues with this setup until now. not sure about the "headunit" rms since its a factory radio. probably something like 15w would be my guess. but i really have no clue.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

the sub was purchased new a year ago, and has worked great in my house using the same amp and box and a computer power supply. never have i ever had issues with this setup until now. not sure about the "headunit" rms since its a factory radio. probably something like 15w would be my guess. but i really have no clue.

converting it to rca connectors should work fine from a stock head unit without an amp. how are you running door speakers? are you converting the rear speakers to the amp and using the fronts from the stock head unit?

 

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

front and rear speakers are still off the factory stereo. all i did was "Y" into the drivers side rear speaker wire and intercept it from there.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

front and rear speakers are still off the factory stereo. all i did was "Y" into the drivers side rear speaker wire and intercept it from there.

that might be the problem. try using both rear speaker wires and delete the rear speakers altogether. dont the line converters use 2 sets of input wires?

 

[coldesttadpole 10+ year member]

they do, but being that its only one sub, i figured i could just use the left or right. i really dont want to delete the rears. theyre the good speakers outa the 4.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

they do, but being that its only one sub, i figured i could just use the left or right. i really dont want to delete the rears. theyre the good speakers outa the 4.

i think you need to use a left and right channel to run a single amp that way. number of subs is a moot point. the front 2 would probably work also, if youd rather delete those. better route to go would be to use a 4 channel amp, bridge the sub on the rear channel, and run a couple of good front speakers from the front channel of said 4 channel amp. since you dont have that equipment, i believe you will have to lose 2 speakers in your truck to run an amp by converting.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

without y-ing off from a working speaker. dedicated speaker wire to be converted from head unit.