Here's a tough one...crankshaft position sensor..why?

ls2poweredgoat
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Womanizer
Engine light came on today, went to autozone to have them read the code and it came up as intermittent problem with crankshaft sensor, could be faulty or loose wiring somewhere...

2 spark plugs were really loose (how?) and the plug wires themselves were half way popped off.

The car is running fine, noting is different. So I unplugged the battery to reset the code, and we'll see if it comes back on.

I figured either the sensor is good or is bad, not inbetween.

When the cam shaft position sensor went bad on my Buick, there was no intermittent problem, it just went bad.

So, my question, could the loose plug wires cause a poor connection in the circuitry causing the code to read?

 
were the plug wires loose/off, or the PLUGS were loose?
either way, that shouldn't cause a code for a sensor. replace the sensor.
The sensor is $162. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

The spark plugs were super loose, and the wires were popped off a little bit...but the car was running A-OK.

How is there an intermittent reading, isn't a sensor just bad or good? No inbetween?

 
Go to Honda tech and ask them.
Last time I went to the dealer the guy didn't even know my engine code, he was like "wth is an F23"?

So I gave up on them...

Like I said, I tightened the spark plugs and the plug wires are securely on there, and I'm resetting the engine code to see if it comes back on, if it comes back on then we know the sensor itself is bad.

 
Update: Called my buddy who works at a shop and talked to a mechanic...this is what he said.

The plugs/wires would not make the code come on.

The sensor will affect how the car starts, but NOT how it runs, but if I don't replace it sooner than later, it will throw off other engine codes which WILL affect how the car runs.

He told me it could have just been a fluke in the system, so he told me to unplug my battery for 10 minutes (which I'm doing) and to drive the car around and see if the engine light comes back on.

My manual has a procedure to check and see if the sensor is bad, but it involves removing the timing belt cover (which is a PITA on this car), and checking the connections with an ohm-meter. Which, if the engine code comes back on, I will do this tomorrow.

Wish me luck. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
do what i said also //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

hold up, you have to pull the timing cover to even get to it?

what a PITA

 
do what i said also //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
hold up, you have to pull the timing cover to even get to it?

what a PITA
Yup, have to pull out the splash guard in the wheel well, then I have to remove the lower timing belt cover and then try to find the **** thing. The manual has very poor pictures. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
I would go with the pull the batt and let the codes reset. advance auto can also connect their obdII reader to it and delete the codes.

if it comes back, then replace it as it will cause problems in the future as stated above

 
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ls2poweredgoat

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