Help with Door Panel Treatment - Improving Mid Bass

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anger
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Got a few questions...I'll try and keep this concise.

Attempting to improve my door speakers' output, I applied deadener to the inner and outer door skin (maybe 50-75% coverage) and after hearing no real benefit, I got on the forums to see what else could be done and see that what I've done was really a half-*** attempt...if that.

So now I'm onto sealing the door cavities. I found a ton of useful info here already (seems keep_hope_alive has this down pretty **** well) but still have a couple questions.

04 f150 btw

1) How critical is the seal? It seems it would be nearly impossible to make an airtight seal in my application. If you'll notice the pics, theres a hole behind the door lever that needs to be there for the lever to function. Also, there are about 5 or 6 other holes that the door panel kind of slides into...are there methods for dealing with these areas, or do I just seal as best as I can?

2) I found these 5"x7"/6"x8" Infinity Reference comps in the doors...They look a little weathered but still work. Got a 4 ch 400w rms amp. Can I even expect decent output from these after treating the doors? I see a lot of people using their baffle to convert to a 6.5" set and before I get into it, wanna know if there's any benefit, other than more options/availability in that size.

I'll stop there for now. I'm sure I'll need to know more in the near future. Funny, what started out as 'deaden the roof' turned into 'redo EVERYTHING'...this hobby will keep me broke.

TIA

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My Saturn's doors have holes with hooks that slide into them. You can't cover them so don't worry about it. Are you only applying vibration damper now?

 
My Saturn's doors have holes with hooks that slide into them. You can't cover them so don't worry about it. Are you only applying vibration damper now?
Planning on making new baffles (factory mounts hold the speaker about an inch off the door) and need to make something to cover the large access holes as well. Was thinking galvanized flashing...inexpensive.

 
Yes, galvanized flashing will work fine. You could alternatively pick up some DB-3 Sound Barrier at homedepot.com as well as some closed cell foam and skip covering those holes with metal.

 
Yes, galvanized flashing will work fine. You could alternatively pick up some DB-3 Sound Barrier at homedepot.com as well as some closed cell foam and skip covering those holes with metal.
Wouldn't that be less effective? What would be the preferred method for attaching to the door? Spray Adhesive?

I would definitely try for 6.5's if you can do it.
Any particular reason why?

 
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anger

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