Help picking which subwoofer to use!

[Bass911 10+ year member]

I like the XFL as well. Also take a look at the VFL10. I've heard one and it is a great sub.

I already know about the vfl, but he asked about the xfl first. There is nothing wrong with the vfl, but it is not better than the xfl. It just depends on the power being ran, and the lower power sub is better for him.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I already know about the vfl, but he asked about the xfl first. There is nothing wrong with the vfl, but it is not better than the xfl. It just depends on the power being ran, and the lower power sub is better for him.

The lower power sub is the VFL 10. The VFL10 is 800 watts rms. and has a 2-½" voice coil. The VFL is AB's higher end subs. The VFL 8's are better than any American Bass 8" except maybe the HD8. The VFL10 is a better option for the OP because of the voice coil size and better build quality. Two XFL 10's (1,500 rms) will need more power to get them going (3" voice coil). Which means more electrical upgrades.

 

[nags 10+ year member]

I'm in the same boat with my Tundra. Going to have Buck design a box for me and we've been going back and forth trying to land on some subs. I was pretty set on the Dayton Ultimax 10's, but they aren't available for at least another month. Then was thinking Adire Brahma 10's... Not available till next year. Then I was thinking Sundown SA10's, but think they may require too much power for me. Now I'm looking at the Dayton Reference HO 10's. Haven't looked at the Sound Qubed till now. The HDS2's look like they may be a good fit for me, especially with the amp I plan on going with (JL HD1200/1). Can't believe how cheap they are.

 

[Kohen36]

I’m going with the xfl 10”s. Getting a custom ported box that’s 3 cubic ft.(biggest I could fit) what amp would be best and what electrical upgrades would I need to push the xfl s. I have a tundra 2008 stock alt which is 130 amps and a Duralast gold battery. What other electrical upgrades would I need? Would just another battery do me good

 

[Deon1818]

I’m going with the xfl 10”s. Getting a custom ported box that’s 3 cubic ft.(biggest I could fit) what amp would be best and what electrical upgrades would I need to push the xfl s. I have a tundra 2008 stock alt which is 130 amps and a Duralast gold battery. What other electrical upgrades would I need? Would just another battery do me good

I don't know many people that wait that long to pull a trigger, but around 2000 watts you "should" be looking at ho alts.
If not, Big 3 your alt and get either one big agm, or two married batts. Your volts will still dip without H.O.

Budget?
Quality vs cost man take your pick there's a lot of good, better, and best amps out there.
soundqubed has their q2200 at $400 and their s-2250 at $320.
korea vs china.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I’m going with the xfl 10”s. Getting a custom ported box that’s 3 cubic ft.(biggest I could fit) what amp would be best and what electrical upgrades would I need to push the xfl s. I have a tundra 2008 stock alt which is 130 amps and a Duralast gold battery. What other electrical upgrades would I need? Would just another battery do me good

SIA3500, Smart3, Aab2900.1 or Cab-22

 

[mastershake575]

I’m going with the xfl 10”s. Getting a custom ported box that’s 3 cubic ft.(biggest I could fit) what amp would be best and what electrical upgrades would I need to push the xfl s. I have a tundra 2008 stock alt which is 130 amps and a Duralast gold battery. What other electrical upgrades would I need? Would just another battery do me good

Aftermarket alternator would be enough to get the job done and be the easiest path. Stuff like batteries and capacitors are bandaids that just mask the issue, fix the issue by being able to physical create the power/wattage you want.

I don't know many people that wait that long to pull a trigger, but around 2000 watts you "should" be looking at ho alts.

Agreed. Most stock alternators are built to only have around 40 to 50 amps of available power once you factor in efficency rating of the alt and the amperage needed to run the car. That's why stock alts are garbage for high powered systems, if you want high wattage then you need to be able to physically create the power

 

[Kohen36]

Thanks for all the info, if I go the route of not messing with the alt (it would be a pain for the tundra) how do I know what my stock alt will handle extra battery wise and how would I know to not get to much for my alt to handle

 

[Kohen36]

I’ve also heard if people doing ho alt in the tundra and it overpowered their electrical system and messing with the truck a good bit, this is why I’d rather not mess with the alt if possible

 

[marathonbaker]

I hope that isn’t true. Guess I’ll find out first hand. Just installed DC Power 240. So far it’s been badass

 

[HardofWhoring]

I hope that isn’t true. Guess I’ll find out first hand. Just installed DC Power 240. So far it’s been badass

It's not true, that's not the way electrical works. The only way ANY alternator can hurt your electrical is if the voltage regulator goes bad and it keeps charging at a higher voltage. But don't worry about your electrical, because you would be more likely to explode your battery. (This is if it charges at something north of 18v, and keeps going). You would see it on your gauges, and if your alternator ever did that, you would unplug it / disconnect it, and keep driving for a while until your battery discharged.

Your alternator charges your battery, and the loads on the circuit draw what they need. The electrical items that use, only draw what they need.

There's a lot of misinformation in this thread: Like running 2500 watts on stock electrical. 2500w / 14.4 = 173 amps then your amps efficiency is about 85% and DD is not going to be better than that if that. 173 / .85 = 204 amps. YOU ARE NOT going to run an additional 204 amp draw on ANY stock electrical system.

The OP was also planning on running on stock electrical with 2000 watts (which is right about 163 amps). I wouldn't expect ANY stock electrical system to be ready to handle 100 amps, even if it has an upgraded factory alt for some reason.

It's incredibly simple to figure out what size alt to plan for: total wattage / voltage (14.4 running) = amperage. Amperage / amp efficiency = actual draw, (+what yoru vehicle uses). 2,000 watts being the minimum is an arbitrary number and WAY TOO HIGH anyways. Some people have multiple options for factory alt sizes and could bump it up for small amps. Giving any number out that would apply to all is disingenuous. Some people could need a larger alt for just 30 amps, (or about a 400w amp). There's a few things to figure out first.